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What do i need to stop the water

shazzy692002

Well-known member
Messages
1,179
As some of you are aware, I now have a static system in my garage, I also have tanks in my garage that eventually I want to fill, but at the moment is am filling straight into the van,

But when its full it just leak over, what do I do to need to stop the water from leaking. I also need the pump to stop too.

At the moment I am just timing it for 2 hours to go and turn it all off, but that's not good if you need to go out.

Any help appreciated. Thank you.

 
hi shazzy hope your ankle is getting better./emoticons/biggrin.png

...i have had a fair few floods myself....i use the timer method but i am struggling because....i forget.....so when the experts come along i will be reading with interest...

i was also reading a post the other day and i am not sure but....i think as your filters start to clog...your time increases....as i keep having to alter my times to fill a barrel....

 
Thanks.

I was thinking more along the line of buying a ballcock and attaching it to the side of the tank. would this not work?. x

 
Is there a pressure switch on your pump? Or you could try hooking up a timer switch to shut of pump if you know how long the tank takes to fill.

Sent from my RM-976_1115 using Tapatalk

 
Is there a pressure switch on your pump? Or you could try hooking up a timer switch to shut of pump if you know how long the tank takes to fill.Sent from my RM-976_1115 using Tapatalk
No don't think so, but I can buy a timer for the pump, to just go on for 2 hours etc....which are only a fiver...

 
That would be the best route because if you don't have a pressure switch and use a stopcock pump would keep running and eventually burn out.

Sent from my RM-976_1115 using Tapatalk

 
Miss my old ionic system I just flicked the solenoid on and it auto stopped , possibly the same as seyes link

 
No don't think so, but I can buy a timer for the pump, to just go on for 2 hours etc....which are only a fiver...
If you wanted to go this route you can also get a timer for your garden tap too. Would be easier than a float in your tank.

 
If you wanted to go this route you can also get a timer for your garden tap too. Would be easier than a float in your tank.
Bare in mind the pump would still need a timer as well.

 
As some of you are aware, I now have a static system in my garage, I also have tanks in my garage that eventually I want to fill, but at the moment is am filling straight into the van,But when its full it just leak over, what do I do to need to stop the water from leaking. I also need the pump to stop too.

At the moment I am just timing it for 2 hours to go and turn it all off, but that's not good if you need to go out.

Any help appreciated. Thank you.
I have one of these fitted on my RO, but I havent got a pump fitted. Just mains pressure

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTO-SHUT-OFF-KIT-REVERSE-OSMOSIS-SYSTEM-AQUARIUM-WINDOW-CLEANING-FISH-/261359082977?pt=UK_HomeGarden_CLV_Cleaning_CA&hash=item3cda371de1

 
As some of you are aware, I now have a static system in my garage, I also have tanks in my garage that eventually I want to fill, but at the moment is am filling straight into the van,But when its full it just leak over, what do I do to need to stop the water from leaking. I also need the pump to stop too.

At the moment I am just timing it for 2 hours to go and turn it all off, but that's not good if you need to go out.

Any help appreciated. Thank you.
If you are also wanting to switch the pump off then you have to use a float switch connected to a normally off solenoid valve to switch the water off. At the same time it switches the water off it will switch the pump off as well. I presume that the booster pump you have is 230 volts.

Here is what we use.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/float-switch-230v-2m-cable?da=1&TC=SRC-float switch

We have paired this with a 230 volt normally off solenoid valve. The solenoid valve is located on the water inlet before the r/o prefilters.

Something like this will do.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-3-4-230-PSI-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-220V-AC-VITON-/130502565417?pt=UK_Irons_Presses&hash=item1e628f1e29

Use 2 x 3/4" to 1/2" male barbs for your hose.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Barbed-Threaded-BSP-Fittings-Male-BSPT-Hose-Tail-Brass-large-small-sizes-/321448446481?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item4ad7d20a11

It is in essence a float switch on a submersible pump except that it is connected up to work the other way. (On a submersible pump the pump is automatically activated when the water in the tank fills up. The float switch floats on the surface of the water but when it runs out of cable it becomes vertical as the water level rises. This switches on the pump. As the water is pumped out of the tank the float valve then returns to horizontal and the pump switches off.)

When the water in our 1ooo liter IBC tank drops to about 2/3rds full the solenoid switch opens and the r/o begins to replace the water taken. When the tank is full the float valve cuts power to the solenoid valve and the valve closes which stops the r/o from working.

Because the float switch is rated at 8 amps it will also power up a 230 volt booster pump at the same time the solenoid valve opens and will shut both off at the same time when the tank is full.

If you are using a submersible pump to pump the water out of the tank into your van then I would connect this float switch to your submersible pump using it as an anchor.

Here is an illustration

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/alarm.html

This is an illustration on how to fix the additional float switch to show it pivoting. You want the connect it as a 'pump up' (filling) application not a 'pump down' (emptying) application.

We then used an electrical junction box to connect everything up to a wall socket in the garage protected with an rcd unit.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-4-Way-20A-Junction-Box-90mm-Terminal-Boxes-Unit-Cable-Connector-Box-Enclosure-/121375523244?pt=UK_BOI_Materials_Supplies_Electrical_ET&hash=item1c428b81ac

 
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We used to pump our drinking water up from a spring. Just had an overflow going from main header tank into another, no dramas if something fails then and you've too much water.

 
Hi Shazzy

We used a 300mm length of 20mm (I think) conduit secured through the top of the tank with a cable gland. So it become a pivot similar to the illustration. Using another cable gland will make the 'bend' at the bottom of the conduit length less 'sharp'.

These bits are available from B&Q electrical section.

They look like these.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-20-mm-Black-Waterproof-IP68-Compression-TRS-Cable-Stuffing-Gland-Locknut-M20-/261178006448?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item3ccf6c1bb0

The cable tightener sits above the tank held in place by the 2 nuts. The conduit pushes in the other end. The cable needs to protrude enough (about 100 - 150mm) to allow the float to become vertical in the water without fouling on the top of the tank.

We have also drilled and fitted an overflow on the side of the tank at the top and have a hose running outside to the drain just incase the solenoid valve doesn't shut properly due to a bit of grit in the water. (The solenoid valve is before the prefilters.) So far this hasn't been needed.

This has worked without a hiccup for the past 6 years. I'm expecting to have to replace the float switch as the cable at that pivot point won't last forever, but so far so good.

The great thing about it is that it is automatic. One of the lads takes water, it switches on and then switches off when the tank is full and most of the time I don't know about it as the tank is full when I get home.

 
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I just flood me van from time to time as can't be arsed with all that /emoticons/biggrin.png

 
Well that's just transferring pure to the van tank so not really relevant to the question.

One day I might get a fast fill setup and use a petrol pump type gun so can just stand there and watch it fill.

 
Thanks.I was thinking more along the line of buying a ballcock and attaching it to the side of the tank. would this not work?. x
A ballcock (like the one that fills up the toilet cistern) on the tank could work if it wasn't for the fact that the water going into the ballcock would go straight into the tank, but you really want to control the water going into the RO, not the tank.

If a ballcock could be modified so that it directed the water back out and into the RO, then i guess it would be fine.

Could be the best.

 
A ballcock (like the one that fills up the toilet cistern) on the tank could work if it wasn't for the fact that the water going into the ballcock would go straight into the tank, but you really want to control the water going into the RO, not the tank.If a ballcock could be modified so that it directed the water back out and into the RO, then i guess it would be fine.

Could be the best.
That's what I have linked above /emoticons/smile.png

 

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