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Split charge readings...what should they be guys?
- Thread starter Oakridge
- Start date
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The voltage reading across a leisure battery will identify the state of charge of that battery. But the battery must be left to rest for a period of time (4 hours recommended) before an accurate reading can be taken.
12.7v = 100% charged
12.4v = 75% charged
12.2v = 50% charged
12.0v = 25% charged
11.9v = Discharged
The higher readings you have are taken shortly after you have switched off your engine - on mine anyway. The charge voltage when the engine is running will be as high as 14.4v. This means that the vehicle's alternator is charging the battery.
When you switch off the engine, this voltage will initially drop quickly and then more slowly as your battery reaches it's true state of charge.
12.7v = 100% charged
12.4v = 75% charged
12.2v = 50% charged
12.0v = 25% charged
11.9v = Discharged
The higher readings you have are taken shortly after you have switched off your engine - on mine anyway. The charge voltage when the engine is running will be as high as 14.4v. This means that the vehicle's alternator is charging the battery.
When you switch off the engine, this voltage will initially drop quickly and then more slowly as your battery reaches it's true state of charge.
Thanks spruce clear and concise
The first readings I took the van hadn't been started for over 12hrs so at 75% charge that's put my mind at rest regarding the battery.
The prob I had was a little spluttering from the jets only for a few seconds then it would clear....I tried turning it up to perhaps de block any airlock but it topped out at I think 86 due to the calibration.
I had been running at 38 but after other days advice turned it up to 53/55 it seems better however the diff between 55 and where it topped out at 86 didn't look much different
I'm not confident to take the pump apart n chk that....Loki shouldn't need to I guess everything in this set up is brand new January this year!
The first readings I took the van hadn't been started for over 12hrs so at 75% charge that's put my mind at rest regarding the battery.
The prob I had was a little spluttering from the jets only for a few seconds then it would clear....I tried turning it up to perhaps de block any airlock but it topped out at I think 86 due to the calibration.
I had been running at 38 but after other days advice turned it up to 53/55 it seems better however the diff between 55 and where it topped out at 86 didn't look much different
I'm not confident to take the pump apart n chk that....Loki shouldn't need to I guess everything in this set up is brand new January this year!
How you set up your flow controller is the way that's best to suit your working preferences.
We use Varistream controllers and they don't have the fine flow adjustments the Spring derivatives do. Ours run from 1 to 8 with 9 as a boost (pump runs flat out.)
I prefer to run at a flow of 4 for washing but I love 5 for rinsing. I have my pump calibrated so it will still pump water at a flow of 6 through my hose but will start to cycle if I run the flow at 7. If I chose to use 7, then I would need to raise my dead end calibration by a couple of points to stop the cycling. In doing so, I expect to use more battery power as the pump has to work harder.
As I've mentioned on here before, I have a combo gauge in the van that registers leisure battery charging and draw in volt and amps.
I usually supplementary charge my 110 amp leisure battery every 2 days, although it can be every day if it has had a heavy day. At most my engine will run for 30 minutes max on most days so my SCR doesn't supplement the charge taken from it during the day by very much, hence the reason for additional charging.
We use Varistream controllers and they don't have the fine flow adjustments the Spring derivatives do. Ours run from 1 to 8 with 9 as a boost (pump runs flat out.)
I prefer to run at a flow of 4 for washing but I love 5 for rinsing. I have my pump calibrated so it will still pump water at a flow of 6 through my hose but will start to cycle if I run the flow at 7. If I chose to use 7, then I would need to raise my dead end calibration by a couple of points to stop the cycling. In doing so, I expect to use more battery power as the pump has to work harder.
As I've mentioned on here before, I have a combo gauge in the van that registers leisure battery charging and draw in volt and amps.
I usually supplementary charge my 110 amp leisure battery every 2 days, although it can be every day if it has had a heavy day. At most my engine will run for 30 minutes max on most days so my SCR doesn't supplement the charge taken from it during the day by very much, hence the reason for additional charging.
