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Squeegee problem

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Adam curtis

Well-known member
Messages
151
Location
Bicester
Hi guys I've been doing this a long time just got in to modified squeegee s and liquidators over the past week or two been noticing loads of tiny lines when fanning I change it every day don't no if it's always done it or just started noticing it it's driving me mad they look like they disappear not had no complaints I've tryed loads of different rubbers all seem to do the same only getting half of day from each side if I'm lucky I normally use squeegee off soap with a dash of viniger is it in my head or have I change my technique I don't no what's going on help !!

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I find if you use liquidators on wooden frames the tip damages very easily especially if they need a paint, once the tip is damaged you get those fine lines.

 
hi adam, I have had the same problem and put it down to the weather , I pretended in the usual cnc way not to see them and when I looked again there was no marks visible......as usual ..I changed to a branny new blade and I was okay then but still was wondering if I had put the wrong liquid in or something.

you cant beat a new blade though....hope you sort out the problem ta cnc.

 
altho you say uv tried loads of rubbers ,you likely need to try more,diffrent brands or even a duff batch can be what the problem is.a duff rubber edge often cannot be seen by naked eye either

once u find a good rubber iv realized it pays to buy more from the exact same batch. most multi packs have a code on the packets

another thing,if youre carrying your rubbers around with you,they need to lay in a box lined with a material softer than rubber. its so important cos if the blade edge touches a hard surface in transit itll be ruined in no time by the vehicles motion causing chafe on blade edge

 
Last edited:
altho you say uv tried loads of rubbers ,you likely need to try more,diffrent brands or even a duff batch can be what the problem is.a duff rubber edge often cannot be seen by naked eye either
once u find a good rubber iv realized it pays to buy more from the exact same batch. most multi packs have a code on the packets

another thing,if youre carrying your rubbers around with you,they need to lay in a box lined with a material softer than rubber. its so important cos if the blade edge touches a hard surface in transit itll be ruined in no time by the vehicles motion causing chafe on blade edge
I agree with you about protecting your rubbers, I've got one of those long plastic boxes you can buy from suppliers.

 
I had the same problem with the liquidator , I put a zip tie cut down in each end of the channel and it solved the problem, there is a thread on the forum about it

 
moerman soft , its a cheap rubber but the edge qualitys there . doesnt last too long but you cant have everything.

 
I've recently tried Moerman hard and Moerman soft. Both have excellent slip. Soft is fine for new glass and frames but you'll trash it after a couple of panes on older frames. Even though they call the new one 'hard' I'd call it medium. Lasts longer and the slip is just as good. Probably work a treat for you guys in the UK at the moment with your warm summer.

 
Black Diamond rubber in the liquidator . I also use Moerman rubber and razr red depending on the windows, I've found that various branded rubbers act differently to different glass. I actually tried pulex rubber for the first time too yesterday and I was pleasantly surprised.

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