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I need to produce more pure water.

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johnny bravo

Well-known member
Messages
2,765
Location
teesside
@ the moment im using a 300 RO , in house. with a purefreedom Aquatic 8800 booster pump.

The problem is my kitchen faces the drive so its facing the front of my house. I have no room for an IBC tank. .

@ the moment im filling a 220 litre water butt up twice daily. Headache. From my kitchen

I have more work on so need to always have a good supply of Pure water to transfer to van.

What would be my best option, My tap water is 148. It looks too awkward to get a tap fitted on the rear of the house.

I would not want it fitted into the van.

Any ideas as to what would be my best option .

I do have a small outhouse on my front. which may be workable if i new what to do

 
@ the moment im using a 300 RO , in house. with a purefreedom Aquatic 8800 booster pump.The problem is my kitchen faces the drive so its facing the front of my house. I have no room for an IBC tank. .

@ the moment im filling a 220 litre water butt up twice daily. Headache. From my kitchen

I have more work on so need to always have a good supply of Pure water to transfer to van.

What would be my best option, My tap water is 148. It looks too awkward to get a tap fitted on the rear of the house.

I would not want it fitted into the van.

Any ideas as to what would be my best option .

I do have a small outhouse on my front. which may be workable if i new what to do
Son and I seem to manage ok with a 650 liter tank in the van 99% of the time.

The only time we have to replenish water during the afternoon is when we have a large commercial job and both pumps are going the majority of the time. We do this at lunch time for the simple reason if we did it when we ran out of water mid afternoon, I doubt we would go back out to do another couple of hours work.

So in your position I would seriously consider a larger tank and mounting a 4040 inside your van and process water directly into your on board tank. From experience, not having a sufficient supply of water hampers your income, especially in winter. Parked on the driveway you will have provision to a tap water supply and a drain. If you don't have an outside tap one can easily be added by tapping off a water supply in the kitchen and piping water through the wall and fitting an outside tap.

You will also have to run an electric cable to the van at night to ensure the r/o doesn't freeze.

Using a 300GPD r/o is ok, but you need a bigger storage facility. You don't mention what the outhouse is. We have some houses in Marske by the Sea that have a wash room attached to the side. Access to the back is though it. They are wide enough for a door entrance and a toilet. At the rear it is wide enough for a fridge. So they could have a narrow tank in that space. An IBC tank wouldn't fit and wouldn't get through the door.

One of the local lads used a 650 liter tank. Its narrow and has a small footprint. Another cleaner uses a 1000 liter upright tank which also has a smaller footprint than an IBC tank. At a width of 590mm a 1000 liter tank is narrow enough to get through a door. These options are much more expensive than a used IBC tank, but if its the only way then so be it.

1000 Litre Upright Baffled Water Tank - Standard Size Vehicle Tanks - Water Storage - Pure Water Systems - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

Whilst it is possible to double di with 148ppm is will be expensive on resin and cheaper to find another storage method.

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Easiest and cheapest way is get another 200 litre water butt and link together you will need a second transfer pump to make it simple, I like the idea of two pumps just in case one fails. Just put both water butts in a big Keter storage helps with insulation and keep the front of your house tidy.

 
For me to have something in the van, allowing me to transfer tap water direct into van ,filter , then into tank.

Is a 4040 my best bet.

Dose the tap water go direct through the 4040 system to be filtered , is this enough to bring water to 0000tds,

, Would i need a booster pump, di vessel.

i will have to look into this for the new year.

Ive heard on forums some people haveing issues with 4040 setups.

WHAT PRICE am i looking at.

@ the moment i can use around 1000 litres a week. which means putting my R.O. on for around 5 times a week. at around 5 hours a go with a booster pump. not very efficient on lecy also. but has to be done

 
For me to have something in the van, allowing me to transfer tap water direct into van ,filter , then into tank.Is a 4040 my best bet.

Dose the tap water go direct through the 4040 system to be filtered , is this enough to bring water to 0000tds,

, Would i need a booster pump, di vessel.

i will have to look into this for the new year.

Ive heard on forums some people haveing issues with 4040 setups.

WHAT PRICE am i looking at.

@ the moment i can use around 1000 litres a week. which means putting my R.O. on for around 5 times a week. at around 5 hours a go with a booster pump. not very efficient on lecy also. but has to be done
A 4040 is a duplicate setup of the r/o you have now. But instead of the pure water going into your storage butts, its going into your van's tank and much faster. You will need two additional van ports, the first for your tap water and the second for your waste water.

There have been some who have used an ordinary 300GPD instead of a 4040, its just that the rate of production is much slower. As long as you fit a solenoid valve to switch the r/o off when the tank is full, you could just leave it on overnight. (This is something you will need to do with an on board r/o anyway.)

If you know what your water pressure and flow rate are then you could get away without a booster pump on a 4040.

Our water pressure is 50psi and my 4040 works fine on the pressure with an HF5 membrane.

Collins water have been advertising a 4040 setup which is not expensive. My only concern is the membrane. There is a recent post on it originating from @Eviestevie

The membrane is performing well at his water pressure which is quite high, but as this is new, there are no reviews from others who have lower water pressure.

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Outlet into hose pipe an run under some decking outside door into drain completely hidden.

 
Outlet into hose pipe an run under some decking outside door into drain completely hidden.

 
thanks Spruce.the 4040 hose. producing pure going into water tank is the hose 1/2 inh, or 1/4 the same as the 300 RO
4040's use 1/2" hose.

A 4040 will have a sediment filter housing and a carbon block filter housing both with 1/2" ports before the r/o. This is the same as your 300GPD r/o. I chose 20" prefilters as the carbon block lasts long that the 10" ones. You could have just one prefilter, as a Fiberdyne carbon block can be used as a sediment filter as well.

However, if your water is the same as ours on Teesside I would always use a sediment filter as our water is laden with sediment.

The feed to the r/o needs to be 1/2" hose or piping as anything smaller won't keep up with what the r/o needs. Our waste is 1/2" and so is the pure hose to the di vessel.

There is no problem running your waste hose up over a door arch, even along the soffitts if you have to.

My waste water hose exits the r/o cabinet at the top and goes through the wall before it exits the wall of the garage and down to the drain. Its a couple of feet higher than the r/o. The waste hose is actually plastic water piping.

The pure goes from the cabinet up to the garage roof trusses, along those and down the other side into the IBC tank.

When I used to process water with my first r/o directly into my trailer, the r/o was at the back tap and the pure hose ran over the garage roof before dropping down to the trailer on my driveway.

 
if im using around 1000 - 1500 litres a week how long would a 4040 last me before i need to spend anything on filters or membranes. My water leaves my tap @ around 148.

I dont know my water pressure, ill phone vyair up to loan a pressure gauge from them. You mentioned a 4040 for lower water pressure. without using a booster pump.

will this be a better option. I know once you get used to a new bit of kit it takes time to get confident using it., just as a RO did for a beginner,

i an try anf fit it in my outhouse then maybe the van. I dont like leaving too much in van in case some tw-t decides to have van , too muh to replace, shed may be better.

I might seek a professional plumbers advice and see how dificult it would be to fit a tap to the rear of the house. All problems solved.

All piping on front, Kitchen, Bathroom. Water tank front side.

ill look around youtube regarding 4040s and how to set up best 4 me

 
Lets use 1500 liters a week = 6000 liters a month. Our r/o works on a 1 to 1 ratio of waste to pure. So you expect to use 12000 liters of water per month.

A fiberdyne prefilter has a service life of 75,000 liters according to the manufacturers. So your carbon block prefilter should last you 6 months. A 20" Fiberdyne filter costs £28.00 + VAT. We sometimes use 2 or 3 sediment filters for one Fiberdyne prefilter. Sediment filters cost £4.75 + VAT.

My HF5 membrane is over 4 years old and still producing water at the same efficiency as it did when new. The membranes on my last 450GPD r/o lasted me 6 years.

An HF5 4040 membrane costs £227.00 + VAT.

I built a cabinet for my 4040 and it is mounted on the garage wall. It has a tube heater on a frost stat so switches on at around 8 degrees and keeps the inside of the cabinet at this temperature.

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it dont sound 2 bad if membranes last 5-6 years = around £40 per year for new membrane , thats if it lasts as long as that., i can see me getting one fitted into out house, easy to transfer into van., theres room for a upright tank, in or outside.

Your sediment filters, do you get 2 of these with a 4040 RO..

Who would you sugest as the best company & Service & best price.

With a HF5 membrane would i still need a booster pump or not.

 
it dont sound 2 bad if membranes last 5-6 years = around £40 per year for new membrane , thats if it lasts as long as that., i can see me getting one fitted into out house, easy to transfer into van., theres room for a upright tank, in or outside.Your sediment filters, do you get 2 of these with a 4040 RO..

Who would you sugest as the best company & Service & best price.

With a HF5 membrane would i still need a booster pump or not.
Personally I would go through Daqua or one of the main wfp suppliers, but ask for 20" prefilter upgrades. You also want the first housing to have a clear bowl.

I'm not a fan of Vyair products, but the 4040 membranes they sell are the same as the membranes Gardiner sells. Their 4040 housing is a cheaper version of the champ housing. As far as I'm concerned the champ housing is the Rolls Royce of housings.

Our water pressure in Saltburn is 50 psi at the moment. My HF5 brings that pure down to 2 producing 2 liters of pure per minute. Our tap water tds is between 99 and 125. A 7 liter di vessel lasts me a year.

Collins water is doing a 4040 at a good price but I'm hesitant about recommending the membranes they are selling. There is a link to their ebay store on @Eviestevie 's recent thread.

 
just been looking at gardinersPRF RO SYSTEM, @ £380

wHEN THIS SAYS A CAPACITY OF 38OOO LITRES, is this its lifespan before membranes need replacing, That dosent seem much water to produce or lifespan of membranes. Whats your thought on this compared to the 4040 RO systems

 
**** compared to 4040

I got mine st decent price and it's performing perfectly

Mine was that much cheaper then competitors

That if I wanted I have the money I saved to buy 2

Axeon hf5 membranes so in theory that should cover me for 10 year

Also couple windies I've told are also having good results

 
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