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Water fed pole system for beginners

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kev

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Hi guys, was wondering if anyone could give me advice on what wfp pole system to start off with for beginners, i already have an established round with which i use traditional methods, but no longer have two workers that i had, so thinking about the pole system for part of the run which is too hard to do on my own with trational methods, mostly dangerous and too time consuming

 
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I started out with a CLX-22, a backpack from WCW, one DI vessel and some 25ltr containers. Once I had established the method I got a van and put in a DIY system. My water tds is only 60 so I had no need of an RO.

 
To be honest i had been thinking of that or a trolley system, one or the other, i thought that would be wiser, rather than going straight for a van mounted system, until i learned what i was doing. But if i do go down that route i am going to go on a course for a couple of days any way to learn how to use it properly

 
cant go wrong on the cheapest one that I use...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Start-a-water-fed-pole-window-cleaning-business-for-only-300-/131002153236?pt=UK_B_I_Business_for_Sale_CV&hash=item1e80563914

and comes with plenty of explanation and the guy will advise..

tds total dissolved solids is the amount of stuff in your water that you dont want....you want pure 000ppm water.

ro which comes with that kit...is a way of filtering out all the tds along with pre filters which gets you your pure...I am by no means an expert...but just happened on your post first ...I knew nothing about the wfp until about nine months ago ...dont let the words scare you as you will soon get the idea...welcome to the forum./emoticons/biggrin.png

 
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It's hard for a new comer to break into the jargon and get our heads around the required stuff and the science and practicalities, let alone learning technique.

At least with trad the mechanics seem understandable, if hard to master.

I'm building almost a clone of spcleanings beginner system, but it would be useful to know the di/ro cut off for making sense to do di only, e.g. Is it above 70 tds It makes sense to use more filtration?

I still don't understand much about resin and the di process

 
Hi jim, if you go onto the link cheepncheerful left on his post and go down to the information bit first, the guy explains it pretty well, the information might be on there you are looking for

 
It's hard for a new comer to break into the jargon and get our heads around the required stuff and the science and practicalities, let alone learning technique.
At least with trad the mechanics seem understandable, if hard to master.

I'm building almost a clone of spcleanings beginner system, but it would be useful to know the di/ro cut off for making sense to do di only, e.g. Is it above 70 tds It makes sense to use more filtration?

I still don't understand much about resin and the di process
I think DI only is a suitable method up to 100 tds at source. Mine is 60 atm but it has been as high as 102 and so low as 45. I will continue using DI only.

 
Ok I read that, it seems to imply you can just use a di regardless, it will just use it up fast

 
I was hoping to gutter clear as my main work so I don't think its worth doing another way either by the sound of it.

On a side note, I assume if you are scrubbing the plastics, sofit, fascia then doing the windows after, you'd want to use tap water for the plastics, then flush through with pure and pure the windows?

Or a separate brush entirely?

 
Ok I read that, it seems to imply you can just use a di regardless, it will just use it up fast
You can use it regardless, but if the tds is over 100 the cost implications would make you look at an RO system. I am on a water meter so to make 400 ltrs of pure via a R.O would cost me the value of 1200 ltrs, because as I understand it you lose two thirds to waste. Therefore I consider £40 of resin every six weeks pretty good value.

 
You can use it regardless, but if the tds is over 100 the cost implications would make you look at an RO system. I am on a water meter so to make 400 ltrs of pure via a R.O would cost me the value of 1200 ltrs, because as I understand it you lose two thirds to waste. Therefore I consider £40 of resin every six weeks pretty good value.
I agree with the Di only for beginners. It'll cost a couple more quid but it's one less jargon to get used too. I've only just started but had 2 months of practice so used a lot of water. If you're on a water meter the cost of waste water almost makes up for not having an r/o system. If you count every pound then an RO in the long term would be cheaper. One thing you'll get used to on here is everyone has different opinions, which is why it's great and you make up your own mind with all the different info :thumbsdown:

 
Yes i noticed but new what it meant so no big deal really as can't be changed /emoticons/biggrin.png

I often say wtf myself :laugh:

 
In the end went for a purefreedom trolley as uses the same qualtiy parts (pump & controller) you would find in a decent van mount. Not only that that trolley can be used static in as a van too unlike cheaper backpacks/trolley's being sold. Then you have the best of both for tricky access issues when a trolley is more suitable than a van mount.

 
:laugh:

Hi guys, was wondering if anyone could give me advice on what wfp pole system to start off with for beginners, i already have an established round with which i use traditional methods, but no longer have two workers that i had, so thinking about the pole system for part of the run which is too hard to do on my own with trational methods, mostly dangerous and too time consuming
I did say i was a beginner:laugh:

 
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