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TDS reading of water with detergent in it

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fenderjaguar

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OK, so I saw the video polzn bladz made about gethering rainwater. I noted the exact same TDS reader he was using. It was the HM digital TDS EZ. So I bought one myself.

I'd been wanting to test the TDS of my water for a while. And I'm happy to say my Rochdale tap water is around about less than 50 PPM. This stuff all comes from upland reservoirs and I think it's safe to say it's pretty soft.

Then I wanted to test what TDS it would be with detergent in. First I tested glass gleam 3 at 1:1000 dilution ratio, and it actually pushes it from 50 PPM up to around 60. Glass gleam 4 at 1:500, even though it has water softeners in, actually pushes the water up to around 70 PPM.

Then I tested magnum washing up liquid. Now I can't be objective with how much I put in the water. I put "A squirt" in. And I wasn't really surprised to see it pushes it up to around 250 PPM.

It's no wonder lines and direction marks are not an issue for me now that I'm not using washing up liquid anymore.

 
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But how much the tds read when tradding really dosent matter. You blade the water off the glass, as for getting lines when cleaning is a matter of skill and tecnique. I use tap water at atleast 350 ppm and regular soap and i never have line or the like.

But if your method works better for you then keep doing that :thumbsup:

 
But how much the tds read when tradding really dosent matter. You blade the water off the glass, as for getting lines when cleaning is a matter of skill and tecnique. I use tap water at atleast 350 ppm and regular soap and i never have line or the like.
But if your method works better for you then keep doing that :thumbsup:
I think you'll find in several days that the windows have visible lines and direction marks on them at that kind of PPM, even with the best squeegee skills in the world and a brand new squeegee blade. Especially when you use heavy detergent, which whilst may appear to 'dry up' quickly (or even instantaneously) when viewed from the outside, actually pushes the PPM up and makes things worse, especially when viewed from inside.

With very low PPM water, you'll find the windows are visibly clean, even when viewed from inside in direct sunlight, even when the window has been carelessly bladed off with a rough old rubber leaving lines that have to dry up in about 30 seconds.

 
I dont agree. If you view a window from the inside bladed with skill and good technique you will not see lines when use tap water and soap. If your window looks dirty when viewed from inside when cleaned outside your not doing a good enough job.

 
If you view a window from the inside bladed with skill and good technique you will not see lines when use tap water and soap.
I can agree with that statement.

My issue is that it takes:

1. A good squeegee blade, probably changed very often.

2. Very good technique that requires constant attention to detail.

Whereas, very clean water method requires niether of those things and is therefore much easier.

 
I can agree with that statement.
My issue is that it takes:

1. A good squeegee blade, probably changed very often.

2. Very good technique that requires constant attention to detail.

Whereas, very clean water method requires niether of those things and is therefore much easier.
I see your point, but i do change rubber every day so i an sure the rubbers fresh and good to go, i also belive this job is very much about attention to detail, thats what set one windowcleaner apart from the other imo.

what do you do when your mops dipped in the water first time? After first dip the water tds in the bucket has now raised alot from the dirt transfered from the mop to the water and you are pretty much back to the high tds if iam not wrong

 
what do you do when your mops dipped in the water first time? After first dip the water tds in the bucket has now raised alot from the dirt transfered from the mop to the water and you are pretty much back to the high tds if iam not wrong
Very good point. And that was going to be my next test; how many PPM is the water when you've dipped an applicator into it 20 times from cleaning 6 houses?

The question is though, do you want to start out with 30 PPM water that goes to 300 PPM? Or do you want to start out with 300 PPM water that goes to 1000 PPM? Which is a rhetorical question, obviously.

I think what we're arguing about here is "can you clean windows with dirty water"? And the answer is absolutely YES, but it's far more preferable to use clean water. Dunno how anyone can dispute that...

 
Tap water here is 500ppm and i never leave marks on the glass with whatever soap i use

I do like tradding with pure now as i feel it pulls itself away from the edges but that is using soap

Also i last changed my main blade rubber 3 weeks ago

Some of us just have skills lol

 
I'm sorry I don't agree. I think yer going into it a bit to Heavy. It's cleaning a window not making a rocket. I appreciate what yer saying & would never knock it but IMO it don't matter what water you use. I use ro waste water & you can't get higher ppm then that & I would place my windows against anyone's including wfp & I'm pretty sure most on here would do so as well.

 
I think what we're arguing about here is "can you clean windows with dirty water"? And the answer is absolutely YES, but it's far more preferable to use clean water. Dunno how anyone can dispute that...
Well thats basicly that we are discussin. I have tried clean trad with pure but considering the costs to me i dont benefit from it so rather save the money.

 
If you can trad well, (and there is no great secret to it, just practice and disciplined technique)

There are some windies that could get a decent result using a bottle of orange juice.

If you have turn marks and directional lines my personal experience it is cause your not using enough water, hot sunny days your applied water dries too fast you get lines. This is from 'wetting' up too much surface area and not being able to blade it off in a timely fashion.

 
There are some windies that could get a decent result using a bottle of orange juice.
Which still wouldn't be as good as if they were using clean water, even if they were gods no less. Or even people like you, who mindlessly change a blade every house (wow). I just don't think that the squeegee blade somehow magically conforms perfectly to the glass and has a tolerance of 0.0001 micron from it. It doesn't matter how good your technique is, it still isn't as clean as some rough old rubber doing a slap dash job with pure water (pure water that isn't 500 PPM right off the bat, I mean)

 
Not sure who makes it but it is glass gleam 3

They also do a gg4

Never tried it myself

 
All getting bit complicated for me this window cleaning!!!

Think jaguar is trying to be abit scientific about things!!!way to much time on his hands,maybe needs to pick up little work;)

I've been trading for 20 year jaguar still 50 percent trad now and I do a lot of insides and outsides and I get zero turn marks and certainly no lines

Most would agree improper use of blade and applicator is the result of this,as long as water is clean plenty soap,clean applicator and decent rubber then no issues

Lad who works went through a phase of leaving turn marks so I watch him and giving the glass a good clean with applicator stops all turn marks

 
Eviestevie, It is made by Titan labs, I personally swear by GG4 (Glas Gleam) for my trad work.

Fender, what are you on? I change a rubber every house? good luck with that, lucky if I change a rubber every month mate, no need, I don't mash them up that quick.

 
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