Setting up a ro/di system

[Jam1981]

Hi

Right need some advice, going in on a budget to get started with WFP, Turning down way to much work that i can and will not do on a ladder.

This post is about RO/DI set up Help me please /emoticons/smile.png

1) How many pre filters should I use, from limited reading and photos I am thinking 2 x 20" housings/filters? or should I use 3, all so will 10" do the same job! 20" better ??? (so basic what size & how many pre filters?)

2) I will use a booster pump (4L 100psi) just a cheap one to start any one give me rough idea what i will produce realistic from a 300 GPD RO (per HR say) ?? (I am looking at filling 150/175 litre tank)

3) DI I have seen a 4.6 litre vessel, looking at the cost a cheaper option would be a 20" Housing with a DI cartridge, would this work or not (max system I am looking at is 600 GPD!)??

II hope this makes sense! & Today's TDS is 348

thank you

 

[Smurf]

Hi & wlecome

Are you wanting to fit a ro/di in a van of static system at home

 

[Jam1981]

Yes it is going to be at home to start, not a van!

 

[heyoh]

Regarding the DI vessel - buying a refurbished one is a cheap option, 11l so saves you time changing less often.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11ltr-EMPTY-DI-VESSEL-Window-Cleaning-Bio-water-Filter-EMPTY-OF-RESIN-/161558559681?pt=UK_HomeGarden_CLV_Cleaning_CA&hash=item259da3fbc1

 

[Jam1981]

Regarding the DI vessel - buying a refurbished one is a cheap option, 11l so saves you time changing less often.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11ltr-EMPTY-DI-VESSEL-Window-Cleaning-Bio-water-Filter-EMPTY-OF-RESIN-/161558559681?pt=UK_HomeGarden_CLV_Cleaning_CA&hash=item259da3fbc1

Thank you, Have all ready seen them and the 4.6 Litre vessel as mentioned in the first post, issu is £35 - £40 + £28 - £50 of resin , with the 20" Housubg it takes 2 litres of resin so not a huge replacement cost & cost just less then £40 ready to go !!

 

[Jam1981]

Is no one able to help a newbie?

My biggest question at th moment is shall I use 2 or 3 filters and should I use 10" or 20" ??

thank you

 

[spruce]

http://www.vyair.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=370

This company is selling a complete 4040 r/o for less than £500. You may have to pay a little extra for a low pressure membrane. I have a water pressure of 50 psi at the moment (it was 40) and I produce around 2 litres of pure per minute and have no booster pump.

You have a higher tds than I have so you will get a little less than that as you will want a slightly higher waste to pure ratio than I'm using.

 

[heyoh]

Difference between 10" and 20" is how often you have to change the filter

 

[Jam1981]

Difference between 10" and 20" is how often you have to change the filter

My thoughts where this, and all so would the water have more contact time with the filters thus removing more of the rubbish before it hits the membrane!

 

[heyoh]

@spruce that's a great find, i honestly don't understand why vyar don't rebuild their website, i can't find anything on it

 

[Jam1981]

http://www.vyair.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=370
This company is selling a complete 4040 r/o for less than £500. You may have to pay a little extra for a low pressure membrane. I have a water pressure of 50 psi at the moment (it was 40) and I produce around 2 litres of pure per minute and have no booster pump.

You have a higher tds than I have so you will get a little less than that as you will want a slightly higher waste to pure ratio than I'm using.

£560 with vat and resin, not bad, but i do not have that sort money, I have around £700 to go WFP, for everything !!!

I have price a 300 GPD system, 150 x2, with either 2 10" pre filters or 2 20" filters for (£17 more with) a 20" DI housing (with refile cartridge and 2 litters resin), flush kit, a very cheap starter pump, pressure gauge, twin TDS in-line meter, includes 4 meters of tubing, all brackets and all fittings, for £215 (20" £230) will be 450 GPD for an extra £40.

But my head now does no weather to buy 3 filters or 2, + 10" -20" hard choices!! /emoticons/unsure.png lol

 

[spruce]

£560 with vat and resin, not bad, but i do not have that sort money, I have around £700 to go WFP, for everything !!!
I have price a 300 GPD system, 150 x2, with either 2 10" pre filters or 2 20" filters for (£17 more with) a 20" DI housing (with refile cartridge and 2 litters resin), flush kit, a very cheap starter pump, pressure gauge, twin TDS in-line meter, includes 4 meters of tubing, all brackets and all fittings, for £215 (20" £230) will be 450 GPD for an extra £40.

But my head now does no weather to buy 3 filters or 2, + 10" -20" hard choices!! /emoticons/unsure.png lol

On a r/o like that 10" is usually standard. We used to use a 3 housing r/o with an extra 150gpd membrane on the same water pressure - 40 psi and no booster. Worked well for around 7 years. It had three filter housing below the membranes.

The first prefilter is a sediment filter to remove the sediment. The second is a carbon block filter. We use a Fiberdyne from Gardiners. The 10" one will be suitable to remove the chlorine from 37,000 litres of tap water, waste and pure added together.

The 20" Fiberdyne will remove the chlorine from 78,000 liters.

Some suppliers used a third filter with a CAG filter inside, but this isn't necessary for wfp needs. Others used that third housing as a resin filter to polish off any remain particles the membranes didn't catch, but a di vessel is a far better idea as it will last longer due to a higher resin capacity.

TBH I wouldn't bother with a booster pump. I would upgrade and add another housing and 150 gpd membrane. If you haven't bought it yet, then just get a 450gpd unit complete.

 

[heyoh]

http://www.daqua.co.uk/ro_systems.htm

 

[Jam1981]

On a r/o like that 10" is usually standard. We used to use a 3 housing r/o with an extra 150gpd membrane on the same water pressure - 40 psi and no booster. Worked well for around 7 years. It had three filter housing below the membranes.
The first prefilter is a sediment filter to remove the sediment. The second is a carbon block filter. We use a Fiberdyne from Gardiners. The 10" one will be suitable to remove the chlorine from 37,000 litres of tap water, waste and pure added together.

The 20" Fiberdyne will remove the chlorine from 78,000 liters.

Some suppliers used a third filter with a CAG filter inside, but this isn't necessary for wfp needs. Others used that third housing as a resin filter to polish off any remain particles the membranes didn't catch, but a di vessel is a far better idea as it will last longer due to a higher resin capacity.

TBH I wouldn't bother with a booster pump. I would upgrade and add another housing and 150 gpd membrane. If you haven't bought it yet, then just get a 450gpd unit complete.

Good info, no not bought yet, very soon, my mate has a 450 GPD no booster and has terrible production rates, I think my best bet is to set it up with a gauge and if it below 40 psi or very slow output install the booster.

It says on the website no other filter needed just the one, but i just read most people are putting a sediment filter in front the fiberdyne!!

 

[spruce]

Good info, no not bought yet, very soon, my mate has a 450 GPD no booster and has terrible production rates, I think my best bet is to set it up with a gauge and if it below 40 psi or very slow output install the booster.
It says on the website no other filter needed just the one, but i just read most people are putting a sediment filter in front the fiberdyne!!

They don't produce water at a great rate, even when the water is warmer in summer.

We processed water into an IBC tank with a float switch and solenoid valve. I think it used to take 28 hours to fill an IBC tank in winter.

It kept 2 of us in water, but we needed to start the week with vans filled and we needed a full IBC tank by Monday evening when I refilled my van. The beauty about automatic control is that it can continue processing water through the night and when full will switch off - no human intervention required.

The only way that both of us could work was producing water into the IBC tank.

The Fiberdyne filter micron reading is the same as the sediment filter. So if your water isn't loaded with sediment then you can just use the Fiberdyne as a sediment and carbon block.

Our water is full of sediment and can replace the sediment filter 3 times before we replace the Fiberdyne filter. Any sediment less than 5 microns will pass through the sediment filter but will also pass through the Fiberdyne filter, so in our case the Fiberdyne filter is always working efficiently.

Our prefilters are 20" and the Fiberdyne is good for removing chlorine from 78,000 litres of water. If we didn't use a sediment filter then our prefilter costs would be far more expensive than they are now.

Why not ask your mate if you can connect his r/o up to your tap and do a water production speed test. Our r/o has a pressure gauge so that helped us determine what was happening with our supply pressure.

 

[Jam1981]

Why not ask your mate if you can connect his r/o up to your tap and do a water production speed test. Our r/o has a pressure gauge so that helped us determine what was happening with our supply pressure.

He lives over an hour drive away! & he dose not even have a pressure gauge! as said my tank will be 200L max and in my car, I have no secure way to fill it overnight i will have around 6 hrs,, unless I buy 2 tanks! Set it to fill while at work then it will be ready to go! most of the pumps with the capacity to transfer the water where expensive and the cost of a 2 nd tank!!!

well need to get started, i don't work all day every day yet, and will not use a full tank if i run out I can still trad my round!

i have no idea what the sediment is like, i do no the tds is high enough and the tap water is rubbish to drink! /emoticons/smile.png