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Would this stuff be alright on plywood?

ECLM
WCF

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Its for flat roofing which won't have to endure scuffing. If its anything like what I put on our dormer roof I wouldn't use it on the van.

I would have thought a heavy duty floor varnish or marine yacht varnish would be better.

I've also seen Gel coat used quite successfully. But as I haven't used any of them I have no personal experience to offer you.

However, we have used Protectakote before and although expensive is pretty good. But I recommend you remove the ply floor as water getting trapped between the floor and the wood will start to rust the floor in no time. We use a thick piece of rubber matting to sit the hose reels on.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Looking to waterproof my van asap and after looking through previous threads, came across Isoflex Liquid Rubber Black 4.25Ltr
Seems to be fine on metal but no mention of plywood. Anyone got any ideas on this as would work out cheaper than fiberglass?

Cheers

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Click to expand...
Had a look round and probably found as much as you did that it doesn't mention wood anywhere, just metal, slate asphalt and rubber. I used protekta kote. It maybe more expensive but I'm of the opinion buy cheap buy twice. The van takes a bit of a bashing with stuff taken in and out and this has stayed strong. Plus it's non slip as well. It's that good they use it on North Sea fishing boats. Like I said more expensive but strong stuff!!

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Ta guys. I was looking at protectorkote but the issue is shipping times as I'm in Belfast. Would be at least another 3 days lost work as I'm working from barrels and I'm not risking getting the innards damp. There's a fibreglass warehouse up the road that does full kits so looks like I'll just have to head up there tomorrow and have a chat. From what I've seen, that stuff is bullet proof

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You need to remove the ply flooring anyway to leave the metal floor. Putting barrels onto the floor now and getting it wet for a few days isn't going to make that much difference.

 
I,ve just done the floor in my van today, the ply looked gd so had a go at using prtectakote on top of the ply

big no! no!

me being billy idle, ended up ripping the ply up did,intint take at all

why spend cash and be rough.made great job drying of now job done

 
I,ve just done the floor in my van today, the ply looked gd so had a go at using prtectakote on top of the plybig no! no!

me being billy idle, ended up ripping the ply up did,intint take at all

why spend cash and be rough.made great job drying of now job done
Click to expand...
It's a fair point, don't want to be messing about twice. Def going down the fiberglass route though, been flicking through the vids on YouTube and it looks boss. Saw a guy who did it straight onto the plywood so don't think I'd need to take it out?

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VW offer 12 year corrosion warranty so don't bother waterproofing them, just make sure your system doesn't leak

 
Fibreglass isn't that expensive and you can go straight over the ply and blend it in to the metal floor at the edges by going up the sides a couple cm

That also turns the floor into a completely waterproof tub and hard as nails

 
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VW offer 12 year corrosion warranty so don't bother waterproofing them, just make sure your system doesn't leak
Click to expand...
........... but you need to fully understand what those terms of the warranty are.

Here is a copy of their warranty;

Body Protection Warranty




All current Volkswagen vehicles are fully protected during manufacture against through corrosion for 12 years from the date of first registration.

The only preconditions are:

  • The defect must be reported to a member of the Volkswagen Authorised Repairer network as soon as it is discovered and within the warranty period.
  • The perforation must not have been caused originally by damage, neglect, insufficient care or maintenance or by external corrosion (rusting).
  • A member of the Volkswagen Authorised Repairer network must be advised about any rusting as soon as it is found.
  • All body repairs will be carried out promptly in accordance with the manufacturer's specification and procedures, using only approved parts and materials, so the original level of anti-corrosion protection is maintained.


These highlighted exclusions are where the issues occur. Damage. You may have bought your vehicle brand new but it could have been subjected to body damage and been repaired before it reached the showroom. You will know nothing about that. (In my days with PSA, Citroen and Peugeot had a body shop in Corby that worked 24 hours a day only repairing vehicle's damaged in transit from the factory to the showrooms. One of my customers worked there for years.)

They will know nothing about that damage; they sold you a new vehicle so that damage must have happened in your ownership. Your vehicle could have been damaged and repaired without your knowledge; for example whilst you were on holiday and your car was in the hands of an airport secure parking company.

Neglect, insufficient care or maintenance. Perforation in motor speak is corrosion that occurs from the inside out. How can you neglect or be negligent about caring for or maintaining the inside of your door panels for example? If you live on the sea front and have open air parking then could you not be caring for your vehicle by parking it in a corrosive environment?

I'm very cynical about anti perforation warranties tbh. Most times they aren't worth the paper they are written on. Citroen's warranty (in my day) was that a body inspection had to be included and paid for with each service that the workshop did. The service book had to be stamped to show that the inspection was done. The onus was on the customer to request a body corrosion inspection. If the inspection wasn't requested by the customer (most expected that warranty to be automatic) then their warranty became nul and void as the T&C's of the warranty weren't adhered to. We didn't have an inhouse body shop so the vehicle would be sent out to a Citroen approved workshop. It usually meant that the customer was without his car for a second day. If there was an issue then Citroen had to authorize the work before it was carried out adding further delays. Often the bodyshop just couldn't be bothered with the drama of getting this authorisation if it was a small issue, so gave the car a clean bill of health. Within a few years the car would be sold, traded in etc and the warranty 'lost' with the new owners not adhering to conditions they knew nothing about.

Repairer network must be advised about any rusting as soon as it is found. Rusting is to do with the external surface of the body work. The paint warranty only lasted for 3 years and again subject to T&C's. These include climatic, thermal, chemical or industrial pollution, insufficient care or maintenance. Any issues found will be for the owner's account. If they aren't repaired then over time that corrosion will go right through the metal. The perforation warranty won't apply even if the vehicle isn't 12 years old.

This 'rusting' applies to the under-body shell in particular. So stone chips, abrasion from grit on the roads during winter and other impact damage that leaves the metal unprotected will rust and corrode and rectification is the owner's responsibility. This is where the 'insufficient care and maintenance' clause kicks in.

.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
........... but you need to fully understand what those terms of the warranty are.
Here is a copy of their warranty;

Body Protection Warranty




All current Volkswagen vehicles are fully protected during manufacture against through corrosion for 12 years from the date of first registration.

The only preconditions are:

  • The defect must be reported to a member of the Volkswagen Authorised Repairer network as soon as it is discovered and within the warranty period.
  • The perforation must not have been caused originally by damage, neglect, insufficient care or maintenance or by external corrosion (rusting).
  • A member of the Volkswagen Authorised Repairer network must be advised about any rusting as soon as it is found.
  • All body repairs will be carried out promptly in accordance with the manufacturer's specification and procedures, using only approved parts and materials, so the original level of anti-corrosion protection is maintained.


These highlighted exclusions are where the issues occur. Damage. You may have bought your vehicle brand new but it could have been subjected to body damage and been repaired before it reached the showroom. You will know nothing about that. (In my days with PSA, Citroen and Peugeot had a body shop in Corby that worked 24 hours a day only repairing vehicle's damaged in transit from the factory to the showrooms. One of my customers worked there for years.)

They will know nothing about that damage; they sold you a new vehicle so that damage must have happened in your ownership. Your vehicle could have been damaged and repaired without your knowledge; for example whilst you were on holiday and your car was in the hands of an airport secure parking company.

Neglect, insufficient care or maintenance. Perforation in motor speak is corrosion that occurs from the inside out. How can you neglect or be negligent about caring for or maintaining the inside of your door panels for example? If you live on the sea front and have open air parking then could you not be caring for your vehicle by parking it in a corrosive environment?

I'm very cynical about anti perforation warranties tbh. Most times they aren't worth the paper they are written on. Citroen's warranty (in my day) was that a body inspection had to be included and paid for with each service that the workshop did. The service book had to be stamped to show that the inspection was done. The onus was on the customer to request a body corrosion inspection. If the inspection wasn't requested by the customer (most expected that warranty to be automatic) then their warranty became nul and void as the T&C's of the warranty weren't adhered to. We didn't have an inhouse body shop so the vehicle would be sent out to a Citroen approved workshop. It usually meant that the customer was without his car for a second day. If there was an issue then Citroen had to authorize the work before it was carried out adding further delays. Often the bodyshop just couldn't be bothered with the drama of getting this authorisation if it was a small issue, so gave the car a clean bill of health. Within a few years the car would be sold, traded in etc and the warranty 'lost' with the new owners not adhering to conditions they knew nothing about.

Repairer network must be advised about any rusting as soon as it is found. Rusting is to do with the external surface of the body work. The paint warranty only lasted for 3 years and again subject to T&C's. These include climatic, thermal, chemical or industrial pollution, insufficient care or maintenance. Any issues found will be for the owner's account. If they aren't repaired then over time that corrosion will go right through the metal. The perforation warranty won't apply even if the vehicle isn't 12 years old.

This 'rusting' applies to the under-body shell in particular. So stone chips, abrasion from grit on the roads during winter and other impact damage that leaves the metal unprotected will rust and corrode and rectification is the owner's responsibility. This is where the 'insufficient care and maintenance' clause kicks in.

.
Click to expand...
My system doesn't leek

 
VW offer 12 year corrosion warranty so don't bother waterproofing them, just make sure your system doesn't leak
Click to expand...
there wont be many WC who hav,nt had a leak in there van, flooded mine few times,left pump on while filling van,not the best

 
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spruce had the water gushing out the front doorshow you doing pal, looks like day of tomorrow bad forcast
Click to expand...
Forecast doesn't look too good does it? We had a bit of a late start yesterday due to the early rain and as grandson has to be picked up from school, got an early finish in the afternoon. When we got back into town it had been raining very heavily which, thankfully we missed. Then the wind started from nowhere.

I'm a little fortunate with my van as the floor is lower than the drivers compartment so flooded water leaves via the doors and the other drain holes I have created by removing a couple the rubber grommets. But water gets into the sills and drips from there for ages. I don't need that as the inside of the sills are rusting away already.

The transfer pump I have is specified at 41 liters per minute. Its probably a lot less when coupled up to the length of transfer hose. When filling up my 650 liter tank I resolved many years ago to stand and watch it - never leave it alone. But I get rather bored standing there for 15 minutes, so on occasion have started something else, like slipped inside to switch the kettle on to make a cup of coffee. And this is when I slip into a parallel universe where time moves very slowly, but back in the other universe the flow of water into the tank doesn't. When I walk back outside with my newly made hot cup of coffee I discover that 1000 litres from the ibc tank doesn't go into a 650 liter tank.

This slipping into a parallel universe isn't just triggered when filling up with water. Its a phenomenon that does often occur when cleaning windows. I often wonder why it can take me an hour to clean a 3 bedroom semi when it seemed I was there and completed the job in record time. My son says I'm the only one he has ever seen who can slip into a coma and still remain standing up.

The original van my son had was a Peugeot Partner which didn't have a side door. I flooded that out on numerous occasions filling the footwells with water. The trouble is that the wiring runs down each side of the van and they join the dash wiring harness wires to the rear wiring harness on the side of the doors. So flooding the van out plays havoc with the electrics, especially the central locking.

He now has the same van but a Citroen Berlingo with a side loading door. I fiberglassed the floor and up the sides a bit so the inside is a tub and the only place water can escape is out of the rear doors.

 

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