Help Brodex 250 RO/ Di

[Advent]

Hello Ladies and Gents,

I need a diagram of how my Old Brodex 250 Ro/Di is kitted out.

What pipe goes where. There is a four port manifold on the side of the van.

all the pipes go to and from this manifold. Water in Drain and to Pole.

When I bought this van and set up I was told where the inlet is (Top Right)

with the Pole going to bottom left port. A couple of months ago the TDS went up from 000 to 30ppm.

So I purchased a 25Kg bag of Resin and a New Membrane 4020?...

Now my water is leaving marks on customers windows... Checked TDS 200+ how can this be?

I noted on the various forums there is talk of a Drain when filling the Tank. I knew nothing of a drain.

So I filled the tank up using a different Pot on the manifold ( Top Left) then water started coming out of the Top Right port....Is this the Drain?...

Tried cleaning the Tank out when empty I can see and feel slime possibly Algea.. Will this affect my readings?

If I have filled the tank by putting the Inlet water into the Drain have I damaged the Membrane filter and the Resin?

I am confused even today from the Tap reading 320ppm, water inside the tank reads 167ppm. T oday I measued the rate of Drain water coming from what I think is the Drain port 1 liter of water in 3 minutes.

These pipes inside the van go everywhere. I have a Blue coloured canister with a Foam/ Mesh filter inside.

Next to it I have the larger Membrane filter with one port on the base and two ports on top.Then these pipes

go off in different directions. Inside the tank I see a Float when lifted the water coming in stops. One pipe lower down shows a small filter I believe this to be the pick up pipe to the pump. Pipes from the Resin filter go into the tank to where I don't know. So you see I am not fully adverse to this system

I have been on the Brodex site I can not find the info I seek and speaking on the phone to them I fear I will not understand what they are telling me whereas if I have a full diagram or text to follow then I may solve this problem.

Can someone explain or send me a Diagram of what pipe connects to where including whats inside the tank

Better still is there anyone in the North East Sunderland area with the same set up so we can compare set ups..

Sorry for the long post but I am back on the ladders till this set up is sorted

Thank You. .

 

[spruce]

You need to start at the blue prefilter. That prefilter will have 2 hoses connected to it. One will go to the r/o housing and the other will go to your inlet port on the manifold.

Now you have found your inlet port we now go back to the prefilter. The other hose goes to the r/o housing. It will go onto the end where there is only one port. That's the inlet. On the other side of the r/o there will be 2 outlet ports. The very center port will be your pure outlet. The other port will be slightly off center and that's your waste. It will have a gate valve or some kind of regulating valve that will restrict the waste. If you follow that pipe it will lead to your waste outlet on the manifold which goes to the drain. That waste restrictor valve must never be fully closed. It must always pass water when you are filtering.

Now follow the pure outlet hose from the r/o and that goes to your di vessel. From your di vessel the hose goes into your tank.

You know the other port as that's the one you use for your hose reel.

I expect the 4th port isn't connected as you only have one pump. The other port will be for a 2 man system.

If you have tried to filter your water without any waste running you have probably damaged the membrane. When the r/o is filtering water you need to have an element of waste water at the same time you are producing pure.

I would expect your water tds is similar to the water we have on Teesside so we get by with 1 liter of waste water and 1 liter of pure water.

Once you've got that sorted you need to buy a carbon block filter. Brodex just supplied a sediment filter knowing that the chlorine in the water slowly destroys membranes. They get more sales by doing this.

 

[Advent]

You need to start at the blue prefilter. That prefilter will have 2 hoses connected to it. One will go to the r/o housing and the other will go to your inlet port on the manifold.
Now you have found your inlet port we now go back to the prefilter. The other hose goes to the r/o housing. It will go onto the end where there is only one port. That's the inlet. On the other side of the r/o there will be 2 outlet ports. The very center port will be your pure outlet. The other port will be slightly off center and that's your waste. It will have a gate valve or some kind of regulating valve that will restrict the waste. If you follow that pipe it will lead to your waste outlet on the manifold which goes to the drain. That waste restrictor valve must never be fully closed. It must always pass water when you are filtering.

Now follow the pure outlet hose from the r/o and that goes to your di vessel. From your di vessel the hose goes into your tank.

You know the other port as that's the one you use for your hose reel.

I expect the 4th port isn't connected as you only have one pump. The other port will be for a 2 man system.

If you have tried to filter your water without any waste running you have probably damaged the membrane. When the r/o is filtering water you need to have an element of waste water at the same time you are producing pure.

I would expect your water tds is similar to the water we have on Teesside so we get by with 1 liter of waste water and 1 liter of pure water.

Once you've got that sorted you need to buy a carbon block filter. Brodex just supplied a sediment filter knowing that the chlorine in the water slowly destroys membranes. They get more sales by doing this.

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Many thanks for your reply....

When I get time I will get my head around what you have said. I see there is no mention of the internal piping inside the tank or the Resin filter. Is there points along the piping where I can test the water at the Tap simple enough, outlet side of the Blue Filter? anywhere on the RO membrane. The top has two outlets one central the other offset. The central one is Pure water the offset one waste dirty water. I presume there will be two different TDS reading at this point. Water inside the Tank will have a higher TDS reading than the outlet side of the resin filter Does the pure low TDS reading water go to the pole from the resin filter...?

Thanks again.

I appreciate the help your giving me.

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[spruce]

I'm afraid I don't know much about Brodex's piping inside the tank tbh.

All wfp systems draw their water from the bottom of the tank so one of these will be the one that connects onto the inlet of the pump. The pump's outlet also seems to go back into the tank and exit higher up the side of the tank using a brass quick connect auto shutoff valve.

Algea growth won't effect your waters tds but will not be good for the pump or for the finish of the clean you have done for your customer.

An r/o membrane when working correctly should remove about 97 to 98% of the impurities in your tap water. The resin in the di vessel will polish or remove the remaining 2 or 3%.

So if your water from the tap is 125ppm, you should expect your pure from the r/o to be no more than 4ppm. The water going to waste will show a higher tds than your incoming tap water as its flushing away the 'solids' the r/o has removed from the water its filtered. So you could probably expect the waste water to be around 170 to 180ppm depending on your pure to waste ratio. This figure isn't really important. The tds of your pure is.

Once the pure goes through the di vessel for its final polishing it goes into your tank. The water from your tank is what the pump uses to supply your brush.

The ball float valve is put there to prevent the tank overflowing if its left too long. However, if its just an ordinary ball valve then it won't stop the water flow through the r/o.

.

 

[Advent]

Thank you all for your input.

I have locted the problem of the HIGH TDS reading inside the tank.

On the left hand side of the float valve is a PVC 1/2inch to 3/4inch adaptor.

Where the two sizes meet it was fractured letting TAP water into the Tank

before it went through the filters.So from the pump pick up to the Di Resin

to the pole water which had not gone through the sediment and membrane filter

was kicking the stuffing out of my Resin. A new membrane on order and fresh Resin

then we are good to go....

Thanks again

Keith.

 

[peter rogers]

You need to start at the blue prefilter. That prefilter will have 2 hoses connected to it. One will go to the r/o housing and the other will go to your inlet port on the manifold.
Now you have found your inlet port we now go back to the prefilter. The other hose goes to the r/o housing. It will go onto the end where there is only one port. That's the inlet. On the other side of the r/o there will be 2 outlet ports. The very center port will be your pure outlet. The other port will be slightly off center and that's your waste. It will have a gate valve or some kind of regulating valve that will restrict the waste. If you follow that pipe it will lead to your waste outlet on the manifold which goes to the drain. That waste restrictor valve must never be fully closed. It must always pass water when you are filtering.

Now follow the pure outlet hose from the r/o and that goes to your di vessel. From your di vessel the hose goes into your tank.

You know the other port as that's the one you use for your hose reel.

I expect the 4th port isn't connected as you only have one pump. The other port will be for a 2 man system.

If you have tried to filter your water without any waste running you have probably damaged the membrane. When the r/o is filtering water you need to have an element of waste water at the same time you are producing pure.

I would expect your water tds is similar to the water we have on Teesside so we get by with 1 liter of waste water and 1 liter of pure water.

Once you've got that sorted you need to buy a carbon block filter. Brodex just supplied a sediment filter knowing that the chlorine in the water slowly destroys membranes. They get more sales by doing this.

hose doesnt come from the manifold direct to the prefilter as it goes thru the tank as there is a float device

 

[spruce]

hose doesnt come from the manifold direct to the prefilter as it goes thru the tank as there is a float device

That's good to know as that would stop all the water going into the r/o. I'll give them 10 out of 10 for that./emoticons/wink.png

 

[peter rogers]

there is 3 holes in the tank at top

from left to right

1st hose is the tap water in this goes thru a manual float

2nd is the water comin out of the flo into the di

3rd is the that connects to the reel

 

[Advent]

I'm afraid I don't know much about Brodex's piping inside the tank tbh.
All wfp systems draw their water from the bottom of the tank so one of these will be the one that connects onto the inlet of the pump. The pump's outlet also seems to go back into the tank and exit higher up the side of the tank using a brass quick connect auto shutoff valve.

Algea growth won't effect your waters tds but will not be good for the pump or for the finish of the clean you have done for your customer.

An r/o membrane when working correctly should remove about 97 to 98% of the impurities in your tap water. The resin in the di vessel will polish or remove the remaining 2 or 3%.

So if your water from the tap is 125ppm, you should expect your pure from the r/o to be no more than 4ppm. The water going to waste will show a higher tds than your incoming tap water as its flushing away the 'solids' the r/o has removed from the water its filtered. So you could probably expect the waste water to be around 170 to 180ppm depending on your pure to waste ratio. This figure isn't really important. The tds of your pure is.

Once the pure goes through the di vessel for its final polishing it goes into your tank. The water from your tank is what the pump uses to supply your brush.

The ball float valve is put there to prevent the tank overflowing if its left too long. However, if its just an ordinary ball valve then it won't stop the water flow through the r/o.

.

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Right I feel as though I know every inch of my Tank now...

Let me start from the TAP raw water flows to the Water INLET on the Tank Top Right hand side.

Inside the tank this pipe goes to the left handside of the Float Valve through the valve to the Middle connection on the

Top Right hand side of the Tank. Now from here down to the Sediment Filter (Blue 10inch) the outlet goes to the

one entry point in the lower Membrane filter. Top of the Membrane we have Two options here one is filtered Clean

water the other is the Waste Water discharges to drain. The Filtered clean water enters the Tank by an opening behind the lower

membrane Steel Housing. Inside the tank now we have clean water. There is a pickup inside the tank attached to the Electric pump. Once the pump is switched on the water flows through the impeller and forced into the Di Resin Filter. The outlet side of the Resin Filter re-enters the water tank via piping to the WFP outlet connection on the far right top right of the tank... And the Float Valve simply cuts off the RAW Tap water...Simple now I know...