Lines with liquidator

[mark2788]

I've been using a 10" liquidator for the past week or two, its a great squeegee but I was having problems with drag marks but fixed it with the angle of my hand but I'm still getting a few lines as I turn my squeegee, as I fan it's along the top of the turn one single line, with a new blade its OK for a few windows but then creeps in, I know it must be me as the videos I've watched are fine but I'm wondering how else to gix it please??

 

[Posh]

Practise & practise

 

[mark2788]

I am and will keep going just wondered if there were any tips that would help me along quicker

 

[mark m]

I found it works lovely with razor rubber in it

I am and will keep going just wondered if there were any tips that would help me along quicker

 

[Eric Gilliand]

I've been using a 10" liquidator for the past week or two, its a great squeegee but I was having problems with drag marks but fixed it with the angle of my hand but I'm still getting a few lines as I turn my squeegee, as I fan it's along the top of the turn one single line, with a new blade its OK for a few windows but then creeps in, I know it must be me as the videos I've watched are fine but I'm wondering how else to gix it please??

what rubber Mark? I find you have to be really pedantic with cutting and positioning the rubber. Had your issue whilst using Razer Red. Switched out to Ettore and the issue has all but disappeared. Shame really because the Facelift stuff lasts forever.

 

[Jake]

@Eric Gilliand facelift red rubber mate

 

[Eric Gilliand]

@Eric Gilliand facelift red rubber mate

Yep that's what I use in my wags and also my wag/liquidators. great rubber. Fixed handle 14 liquidator I do prefer the Ettore rubber. Really smooth glide and control.

 

[keefo]

I get them Mark, I've used it in different positions/Angles, different rubbers and washing liquid but still get arched lines. Sometimes it's not too bad but then on other windows it's all the way down. As I've mentioned on another thread about the liquidator and on video these lines are mainly visible when the sun is rising or setting. I've been told my technique is good by windies here and on you tube so I'm at a loss.

 

[mark2788]

I use unger soft, always have done, might consider trying another one, its not every time but I don't want it at all! I think I just need to keep going and I'm sure something will click, anymore feedback is great though /emoticons/smile.png

 

[boarcity]

try to have a soapy mix

 

[fenderjaguar]

I wouldn't use an Unger rubber with the liquidator, it might be ok, but it's too short imo. And the guy that helped design it said so himself. I know the Moerman, razrblade and pulex are all the right size.

As for the lines, that's why I stopped using the liquidator. At first I thought it was because the clips push the rubber proud. But it even does it with the clips bent back. And other custom springy dog eared aluminium channels don't do it, even with the rubber pushed proud.

Now I think it's maybe because the clips make contact with the rubber further down, where it doesn't make contact with the window, not just at the tip (like most home made dog ear channels do). I think this might be squeezing water back up to the end of the blade and dragging a line across the window for your next sideways pull, sometimes....

Oh, also, you may notice, if you look at the end of the blade under the dog ear, as you turn the squeegee, it almost pushes the end of the rubber underneath the dog ear. What this could be is that it's making the top of the blade make contact with the window as you turn, and swiping some water off it as you do so. I find the bigger the squeegee angle, the worse the lines are. So for example, 40 degree angle, lines everywhere. 30 degree angle, not too bad as long as I held my hand closer to the window. 0 Degree angle, no lines at all. The lower the angle, the less chance the rubber has of being pushed under the dog ear.

I dunno, it's hard to pinpoint this issue, but there's enough people talking about it for me to know it's not just me. btw, I'm not saying others don't have a technique that stops this. But I've tried everything, and it still does it.

Heavy detergent/clean water may diminish the appearance of the line and make it dry up quicker etc, but I think it's always going to be visible from inside, especially in direct low sunlight.

It's very annoying, but I've abandoned the liquidator for a modified s-channel which is perfect for me now. It works nearly as well at doing the edges and it's much better for blading across open glass. It isn't hard to turn like the liquidator, since it doesn't push the rubber proud and it doesn't leave lines

 

[Ant]

I get them Mark, I've used it in different positions/Angles, different rubbers and washing liquid but still get arched lines. Sometimes it's not too bad but then on other windows it's all the way down. As I've mentioned on another thread about the liquidator and on video these lines are mainly visible when the sun is rising or setting. I've been told my technique is good by windies here and on you tube so I'm at a loss.

Are you still persevering keefo or have you set it aside?

 

[Posh]

I think a lot of people were disappointed with it especially after the hype & more seem to cant use it then can.

As I said my unger modified beats the pants off it.

 

[mark2788]

There's nothing better than it when it's on point just need to work out how to stop the lines then I'll be happy

 

[keefo]

Are you still persevering keefo or have you set it aside?

Still on with it Ant, did you not bother straightening the clips

 

[Ant]

Still on with it Ant, did you not bother straightening the clips

Yeah I just straightened one set of clips and tried them on the 10" first, then the 14" Still not great, still get lines and still don't feel in control so sod it! I do occasionally grab one out the car and take it on a job. Sometimes it behaves but mostly not. Can't be stressing anymore!

I've been practicing modding my standard channels, getting much better results and am whistling while I work again /emoticons/smile.png

 

[keefo]

I could do with a vid on how to mod a standard channel as i was thinking the same, wonder why people don't have issues on a modded standard.

 

[Ant]

I think such is the extremety of the downward pressure on the liquidator that it makes it difficult to use (for some)

Have a look in Tutorials & Diy section of the forum for dog earing channels or YouTube.

 

[fenderjaguar]

wonder why people don't have issues on a modded standard.

As for the liquidator being difficult to turn compared with a modded standard, the liquidator pushes the rubber proud at the ends and uses the flexibility of the plastic dog ears pushing back as a springy platform. That's good for the edges, but it forces the rubber against the glass, even when you're blading away from the edges. Because the rubber at the ends has more down force like a tyre on a road, it has more friction and will grip more, so it can get caught when you try to turn too much.

With a modified steel channel, you can get away with the dog ear not even touching the rubber, because of the strength of the steel. So when you're blading across open glass you can simply lighten the pressure and the rubber at the ends is barely being forced against the glass any more than the rubber in the middle of the channel

 

[boarcity]

altho i love my moerman ,its a fact that its not as easy to fan quickly with as a standard channel .

iv noticed i can squeegee eyes closed with a regular channel but not with a moerman

 

[Ant]

You can see the rubber twisting slightly under the clips when you turn which seems to cause a line/band of water a few mil back from the end!