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so how is yours set up?

mark lee

Member
Messages
192
Location
Wiltshire
so last week final got round to Putting the RO unit and filters in the van im still filling the tank as if it was coming from the garage (ie filter, filter, RO UNIT resin bottle out to van)but due to my ro filter being some what knackered ive left it this way but will buy another RO filter and put resin bottle on out/exit side of pump

guessing your resin is out side flow of pump?

 
You can do it that way, but I would prefer prefilters, r/o the di and then tank. The malority of van mounted r/o systems apear to do it in that order.

I would prefer my pump not to have to push water through the di vessel as well as a hose reel.

 
interesting you should say that, let the force of the tap pressure the D I bottle the pump dont have to work as hard and always a tank of 000ppm /emoticons/biggrin.png

 
I'm sure that there isn't much pressure needed to push the water through the di vessel @mark lee, but the di vessel will be pressurized to what the controller/pressure switch is set to when you turn your water off at your pole tap. Di vessels are renowned for leaking from the connector threads and/or head gasket.

Whilst my di vessel is totally dry in my r/o cabinet, I would doubt it would remain so under pressure from the delivery pump. Each setup I've seen with di after the delivery pump was leaking fractionally and causing major condensation problems in winter inside the van.

For me having a di vessel after r/o and before IBC tank storage meant it was protected from frost damage in the cabinet I made. We were also servicing 3 vans at the time, so having pure water in the storage tank made total sense. If we had a di vessel on each van, it would have cost 2 additional di vessels and the extra resin initially to fill them.

Son in Law was rather laid back (lazy is another description) and often forgot to put the heater in his van in winter.On several occasions we spent a fair amount of time thawing pipes out so he could work. A frozen di vessel would have meant replacing it.

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My set up is nice and simple but the same end product as a friends 4k van set up. I use a back pack and barrels, very easy and quick, no issues parking near enough or hose running accross roads etc. Well pleased! No expense of 2nd vehicle and no extra 2nd motor running costs. Pick back pack up and put down and clean with 000ppm water. All good:)

 
im going thu resin at mo due to RO filter at 38/43 but least my 600 ltr tank is full of 000ppm:rofl:

can only think my old boss had our work van set up pump resin real due to we had to check our reading every morning o_O

 
Aren't you forever filling back pack?
Hi mate, I pick back pack out of my car put on floor fill it up and away I go. I been next to guys in big vans them tryign to park and then get the hose out and across roads and pavements with people walking by, I just see it as quicker and seen it first hand many many times, I have no van overheads, no 2nd vehicle costs. Tbh whats the dfference? how much qicker could a van be? I have a locla filling water station right in the middle of my work area. Just the best choice looking at the two or I would go for a van if it was batter for me. Its all good with the back packs /emoticons/smile.png not heavey its only 22L and barrels are 20L. Loving it!! But away from that aint window cleaning a great job to have, we are all so lucky in it. great money, no hassle business, freedom /emoticons/smile.png

 
im going thu resin at mo due to RO filter at 38/43 but least my 600 ltr tank is full of 000ppm:rofl:can only think my old boss had our work van set up pump resin real due to we had to check our reading every morning o_O
The Americans have a saying,

“When you are up to your ass in alligators it’s difficult to remember that your initial objective was to drain the swamp”.

In one way or another this applies to each of us in our daily lives. With a tds of 38/43 coming from your membranes your first priority is to replace the membrane/membranes. Focusing attention on how high your tds can be before your see spots is not the direction you should be looking in imho

Zero ppm is the best cleaning water. I worry when the tds in my tank is 001 which it was about 4 & 1/2 years ago before I changed my r/o for a 4040.

I don't know how scientific this is, but I believe that our water composition will play a factor in what point we will start to see spots. Cleaning technique will also play a part. What you see on an inspection of the glass when it has dried may not be what your customer sees in low level sunshine. I could see faint spots on our lounge window at 6 ppm in the early morning sunshine that weren't visible to me the day before. (I did a test once with a backpack by contaminating the pure water in it with tap water. It was from this that I resolved that it would be 000 at all times. Once the rejection rate of the membranes starts to rise, it rises quickly. I found it very stressful worrying about potential complaint calls from customers due to spotting.)

 
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