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Steve Barker

Help with which Pumps for the job please?

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Steve Barker

Hi Guys

 

I would really appreciate your help on pumps.

 

Where I'm At

Started window cleaning in October. Not new to window cleaning but new to Pure Water Cleaning. I am filtering my own water now and using a backpack. Working from a Nissan Micra but moving to small van later in the year. Presently taking 200 litres of water in my car in 25 litre tanks. About to install a 200 litre baffled tank in my Micra and a 1000 litre IBC Tank in the shed. I need to buy 2 or 3 pumps and need your advice on which to buy, where to buy and how much you think is the right price to pay.

 

Pump #1

My house water pressure is not that great so I'm wondering whether to add a booster pump to fill the IBC tank via the RO setup. That said; I may be waisting my time as it will fill up throughout the day and it will have a float valve shut-off. But if anyone thinks there is merit in doing this I would appreciate your thoughts.

 

Pump #2

To transfer from the IBC tank located in the back garden shed through the garage and out to my car/van. I want to use a triggered nozzle so it needs to be a pump that won't overload when turned on at a switch but the delivery handle trigger is not depressed. Don't know if that type of feature has a special name?

 

Pump #3

To transfer water from the car/van through a hose reel to my pole. I will have it work from a 12V leisure battery.

 

Your thoughts please?

 

Many thanks

Steve

 

 

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Gerry Scrimshaw

Google submersible water pumps. 12 volt dc and 240 volt ac. I use a Hoselock pump for IBC to van as I found the cheap one I had cut out after half a fill and had to be reset. Never seen anything trigger operated, that would need a pressure sensor and relay. Getting expensive then.
Booster pump really to make RO system more efficient.


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Marko067

#1. If your tap pressure is above 60-70 psi, I wouldn't bother with a Booster pump. If you need one you need to make sure that the one you buy suits your RO. These are low volume, high pressure pumps usually rated at about 1-2 lpm (litres per minute) and 70-80psi and are meant for use with the smaller (100-300 gpd (gallon/day)) RO units

 

#2. I use a Sump pump to transfer water from my storage tank. These are high volume low pressure pumps.

I used to use a trigger (petrol pump style) but found it better to use a tap at the end of the transfer hose. The problem I found with a trigger type, is that its all or nothing and though the tranfer pump is low pressure, when tranferring water at high volume if you suddenly shut off the flow, the sudden back pressure can weaken your tranfer hose till it eventually splits or comes off the pump in the tank. With a tap you can control the shut-off so you don't get that sudden surge of back pressure that causes the problem.

 

#3. As for the System pump in your vehicle, that depends on a number of things.

1. How long a length of hose you are going to be using.

2. The internal diameter of said hose.

3. The height at which you may want to work.

Many seem to use between 60-100mtrs of micro or mini bore hose with an internal diameter of 6-8mm.

Again these are low volume, high pressure pumps. The standard delivery pump used with this type and length of hose needs to be rated in the region of 5lpm with a pressure switch rated at 100psi. There are several manufacturers to choose from.

Edited by Marko067

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Steve Barker

Hi Marko

 

Brilliant! That was really helpful. Perhaps just a couple of clarifications;

 

#1 I have a high volume 4040 Stainless Steel RO which takes around 1 hour to produce 40 litres of water. Not really sure where that leaves me?

 

#2 If I turn the sump pump on in the shed, walk to the garage, pull out the delivery hose, open the car up etc. Will the pump have burnt out or will it just wait to feel the pressure when I open the tap and then kick in? I want to be sure I don't end up buying 2 pumps because I broke the first.

 

#3 1. 100mtrs

     2. 8mm ID

     3. No higher than 1st floor

51pm? What's that?

 

Thanks

Steve

 

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Steve Barker
2 hours ago, Gerry Scrimshaw said:

Google submersible water pumps. 12 volt dc and 240 volt ac. I use a Hoselock pump for IBC to van as I found the cheap one I had cut out after half a fill and had to be reset. Never seen anything trigger operated, that would need a pressure sensor and relay. Getting expensive then.
Booster pump really to make RO system more efficient.


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Thank you Gerry, by the way...

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Gerry Scrimshaw

Little confused item 3. Are you still using backpack and want to transfer water from tank in car to backpack via a pump? If so using 8mm is going to take ages to refill. Or are you going down “ pump in car, long hose to windows” route?


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Steve Barker
4 minutes ago, Gerry Scrimshaw said:

Little confused item 3. Are you still using backpack and want to transfer water from tank in car to backpack via a pump? If so using 8mm is going to take ages to refill. Or are you going down “ pump in car, long hose to windows” route?


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No I already have a cheap & cheerful sump pump to transfer from tank to backpack. #3 was about moving away from backpack and pumping water from tank through 8mm ID hose and then connect the microbore hose which goes up through the pole. Marko has answered my questions really. I just wanted some clarifications. Thanks.

 

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Gerry Scrimshaw

Yea he’s on the ball. Glad your sorted.


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Marko067
2 hours ago, Steve Barker said:

Hi Marko

 

Brilliant! That was really helpful. Perhaps just a couple of clarifications;

 

#1 I have a high volume 4040 Stainless Steel RO which takes around 1 hour to produce 40 litres of water. Not really sure where that leaves me?

 

I wouldn’t worry about a booster pump the, unless you use water faste than you are making it. The kind of booster pumps I was talking about are for the smaller RO units

 

Quote

 

#2 If I turn the sump pump on in the shed, walk to the garage, pull out the delivery hose, open the car up etc. Will the pump have burnt out or will it just wait to feel the pressure when I open the tap and then kick in? I want to be sure I don't end up buying 2 pumps because I broke the first.

 

These pumps usually work using an impeller so if it you put your thumb over the end of the hose, provided that you thumb covers the end of the hose you will stop the flow quite easily. Mind you you will get wet doing it.

In this state the impeller just spins in its chamber. Not ideal I know but shouldn’t do it any harm for short periods. Once you open the flow with your tap the water will start to flow.

 

Quote

 

#3 1. 100mtrs

     2. 8mm ID

     3. No higher than 1st floor

51pm? What's that?

 

Thanks

Steve

 

 

5 lpm (litres per minute)

 

With that setup a 5.2 lpm (1.4 gpm)  100psi Shurflo shown above will sort you out

Edited by Marko067

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Marko067
40 minutes ago, Clisty1989 said:

Some examples for you

Booster pump

Transfer pump

System pump

Hope this helps

 

The transfer and system pumps listed here are good examples, but the booster pump, whist great for the smaller type RO units, is no good for a 4040. It won’t push water through fast enough for the bigger RO’s. I stand to be corrected but best check with Window Cleaning Warehouse.

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Clisty1989
45 minutes ago, Marko067 said:

 

The transfer and system pumps listed here are good examples, but the booster pump, whist great for the smaller type RO units, is no good for a 4040. It won’t push water through fast enough for the bigger RO’s. I stand to be corrected but best check with Window Cleaning Warehouse.

I only put them up as examples, they show the difference between pumps, I don't need a booster or transfer pump as Di straight into barrels and run a backpack.

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marc674

Just my opinion but I really cant see how a tank that size would be safe in your car also It would probably invalidate your insurance. Also later in the year when you get your van it would not be long before you need a bigger tank either

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spruce
31 minutes ago, marc674 said:

Just my opinion but I really cant see how a tank that size would be safe in your car also It would probably invalidate your insurance. Also later in the year when you get your van it would not be long before you need a bigger tank either

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What happened to the windie who installed a tank is his old mini?

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Scots lad

I seen car valeter with a tank in the back of there Renault looked like a 210 liter tank

 

 

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Steve Barker
23 hours ago, Marko067 said:

 

I wouldn’t worry about a booster pump the, unless you use water faste than you are making it. The kind of booster pumps I was talking about are for the smaller RO units

 

 

These pumps usually work using an impeller so if it you put your thumb over the end of the hose, provided that you thumb covers the end of the hose you will stop the flow quite easily. Mind you you will get wet doing it.

In this state the impeller just spins in its chamber. Not ideal I know but shouldn’t do it any harm for short periods. Once you open the flow with your tap the water will start to flow.

 

 

5 lpm (litres per minute)

 

With that setup a 5.2 lpm (1.4 gpm)  100psi Shurflo shown above will sort you out

Nice one. Thanks for all your help!

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Steve Barker
21 hours ago, marc674 said:

Just my opinion but I really cant see how a tank that size would be safe in your car also It would probably invalidate your insurance. Also later in the year when you get your van it would not be long before you need a bigger tank either

Sent using the http://Window Cleaning Forums mobile app
 

The tank is baffled and will be held down with heavy duty ratchet straps at seat belt anchor points. My mechanic checked it out and felt happy to advise me accordingly. Yes, when the van arrives so will a bigger tank.

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