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Streamline Heatwave Thermo ll With System.

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Cleanig wizard

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Hi Guys,

can anyone one comment on Streamline Heatwave ll with 650 Ltr system second hand are they reliable equipment looking at buying to start up cleaning. 

 
Cleanig wizard said:
Hi Guys,

can anyone one comment on Streamline Heatwave ll with 650 Ltr system second hand are they reliable equipment looking at buying to start up cleaning. 
Click to expand...


They all use the same 9.1kw Webasto heater/furnace. This unit is very reliable but is expensive to service if you aren't technically competent to do it yourself. Parts are also expensive for what they are.

If the unit is run on road diesel it performs well. In earlier years red diesel was an issue but there doesn't seem to be that many issues from narrowboaters/live aboards these days as most inland red diesel sold in Marinas has had to meet 'new' regulations. The new regulation with regard to red diesel quality didn't apply to marinas selling it for ocean going boats/fishing boats.

They are also heavy on battery current when starting so ideally you need to charge the leisure battery supplying the heater every night or at least every second night. Its also a good idea to have a split charge relay and start the boiler with the engine running. This means that the alternator supplies starting power rather than the battery.

Its good to keep the heater working, so if there is only one of you its a good idea the run a second pump to divert the extra heated hot water back into the tank. This will reduce battery draw, stop the heater from entering a stop/start cycle and reduce carbon deposits inside the furnace chamber/glowplug. When moving from one property to another if there is any distance involved then leave the pump running to keep the boiler on 'tickover.'

 
Last edited by a moderator:
spruce said:
 
They all use the same 9.1kw Webasto heater/furnace. This unit is very reliable but is expensive to service if you aren't technically competent to do it yourself. Parts are also expensive for what they are.
If the unit is run on road diesel it performs well. In earlier years red diesel was an issue but there doesn't seem to be that many issues from narrowboaters/live aboards these days as most inland red diesel sold in Marinas has had to meet 'new' regulations. The new regulation with regard to red diesel quality didn't apply to marinas selling it for ocean going boats/fishing boats.
 
They are also heavy on battery current when starting so ideally you need to charge the leisure battery supplying the heater every night or at least every second night. Its also a good idea to have a split charge relay and start the boiler with the engine running. This means that the alternator supplies starting power rather than the battery.
 
Its good to keep the heater working, so if there is only one of you its a good idea the run a second pump to divert the extra heated hot water back into the tank. This will reduce battery draw, stop the heater from entering a stop/start cycle and reduce carbon deposits inside the furnace chamber/glowplug. When moving from one property to another if there is any distance involved then leave the pump running to keep the boiler on 'tickover.'
Click to expand...


I have recently replaced the burner / glow pin/ flame detector on the one I’m selling and it’s actually really simple !


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these heaters are quite simple to work on I have found,although for the non technically minded and mechanicly inept It would be expensive if and when something breaks,but if you can use a screwdriver and are patient and logical in fault finding then its not really that scary to delve into one of these heaters,for this winter i'm going back to the diesel heater but with a slight twist and I've a choice between a 5kw and a 9kw both sat on my shelf,my gut feeling edges towards the 5kw for my needs and its very much an easy thing to install for the competent diyer 

 
kevinc250 said:
these heaters are quite simple to work on I have found,although for the non technically minded and mechanicly inept It would be expensive if and when something breaks,but if you can use a screwdriver and are patient and logical in fault finding then its not really that scary to delve into one of these heaters,for this winter i'm going back to the diesel heater but with a slight twist and I've a choice between a 5kw and a 9kw both sat on my shelf,my gut feeling edges towards the 5kw for my needs and its very much an easy thing to install for the competent diyer 
Click to expand...
Hi @kevinc250.

Are you going to build your heater from scratch including a mounting frame or are you going to use your existing enclosure to mount it in?

I would honestly look at the 9kw furnance as that has a better heat output for using the same amount of fuel. At least you can add a second heat exchanger and use that to bleed off any excess heat back to the tank during those 'down' times. I found the 5kw one just managed to raise the temperature of the water from 9 degrees to 35 degrees at the brush head at full throttle.

I have visions of using the spare Thermo Top C I have as an engine preheater in my 'new' Peugeot Boxer van.

 
I must admit spruce its a two coffee problem to mull over,hopefully soon i'll receive my new tank,an insulated jobby with integral fuel tank .

the idea is to use the tank as a header tank for the hot water as per the you tube vid you showed me a while ago,using this option I can control the heat temp in the tank to suit the weather conditions I have an exhaust that acts like an heat exchanger so--- whilst the tank is heating up I have the option to heat the outgoing water to the pole via the exhaust,

my gut feeling about the 5kw heater is that the power consumption ie the initial current draw is less and will operate on a lower battery voltage than the 9kw it would be more efficient working at full whack for the hour or so that i'll need it to run for,the little eberspacher pump will circulate 840l per hour, the whole idea is still at the mulling over stage at the moment as I think of potential problems/hiccups that might occur.

I do have an enclosure for the 9kw heater with parts fitted from a thermopure unit or, if I used the 5kw heater i'd probably use a smaller enclosure for that.

all good fun I guess but it gives me something to think about during the day

 
kevinc250 said:
I must admit spruce its a two coffee problem to mull over,hopefully soon i'll receive my new tank,an insulated jobby with integral fuel tank .
the idea is to use the tank as a header tank for the hot water as per the you tube vid you showed me a while ago,using this option I can control the heat temp in the tank to suit the weather conditions I have an exhaust that acts like an heat exchanger so--- whilst the tank is heating up I have the option to heat the outgoing water to the pole via the exhaust,
my gut feeling about the 5kw heater is that the power consumption ie the initial current draw is less and will operate on a lower battery voltage than the 9kw it would be more efficient working at full whack for the hour or so that i'll need it to run for,the little eberspacher pump will circulate 840l per hour, the whole idea is still at the mulling over stage at the moment as I think of potential problems/hiccups that might occur.
I do have an enclosure for the 9kw heater with parts fitted from a thermopure unit or, if I used the 5kw heater i'd probably use a smaller enclosure for that.
all good fun I guess but it gives me something to think about during the day
 
Click to expand...
Or you could have one less coffee and just my recently serviced pure freedom unit [emoji16]


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true Robert,it would be an expensive way to cut out a bit of caffeine though?,how much is it by chance?-not wanting to buy as I have enough heaters here but just intrested-also one question,what colour is the anti freeze in the header tank?

 
kevinc250 said:
true Robert,it would be an expensive way to cut out a bit of caffeine though[emoji3],how much is it by chance?-not wanting to buy as I have enough heaters here but just intrested-also one question,what colour is the anti freeze in the header tank?
Click to expand...
It’s blue , but it doesn’t matter really [emoji23].


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Jordiebarrett said:
How much we talking?

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Click to expand...
£1200 , it’s had a new burner / glow pin / flame detector and fuel dosing pump , so it’s basically like new now . The parts were near £900 worth .

Just bought a new van and system that already has one , only reason I’m selling .


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robert mitchell said:
Hi, I’ve got a streamline thermo 2 heater. Tested before fitting in van with a power pack all worked fine. Installed in the van, the unit is making a noise when turned on but doesn’t seem to be kicking in. The green light on the front of the unit is flashing. Just wondered if you can help? 

Thanks 

I have recently replaced the burner / glow pin/ flame detector on the one I’m selling and it’s actually really simple !


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Click to expand...

 


It takes a while for the fuel to come through , but electronics block it starting after 2 attempts .

didconnect power completely to reset then try again , keep doing this until it fires up .

 
Thanks 

we’ve tried this a few times now I’m running pumps off same battery would you run it off it’s own battery and do you know if there’s any fuses inside the unit that might of blown 

jimmy 

 
Jimmybet1 said:
Thanks 

we’ve tried this a few times now I’m running pumps off same battery would you run it off it’s own battery and do you know if there’s any fuses inside the unit that might of blown 

jimmy 
Click to expand...


If the green led light flashes you need to count the flashes. The number of flashes will give you a direction to look for the fault. See page 20 and 21 of the manual attached if its a Webasto Thermo 90 ST.

If you have a Spring Frostat controller then there will be a wire from the controller to the heater; I believe its blue. I believe that the controller has the required fuse. If you have a Frostat controller its designed to switch the heater on when the temperature inside the unit drops to 2 degrees C. If this has been activated then the heater won't start as its isn't cold enough. (In winter when the frostat is activated at 2 degrees the heater will run for 10 minutes and then switch off.)

If you do not have a Spring Frostat controller then that wire should run from your battery positive through a 5 amp fuse to the heater. That wire goes to the on/off switch.

The main power feed is a 20 amp fuse.

If the battery voltage drops to 10.5v under starting load then the electronics abort startup. At 10.5v that battery is discharged.

Its recommended that you use a voltage sensing relay (VSR) or a split charge relay (SCR) to help charge your leisure battery on the move. Running a heater and pumps draws a fair amount of power so a good leisure battery is necessary. I would tend to look at combination leisure batteries; those with a CCA rating. They can be used as a starter battery as well so are able to satisfactorily start a diesel heater.

If you have a new diesel van with regenerative braking then you can't use a VSR or SCR. You need a battery to battery charger such as the Sterling BB1230 or BB1260.

Purefreedom once made the suggestion that it is good practice to start a diesel heater with the van's engine running on the way to your first clean. With a leisure battery charging system the van's alternator will supplement the initial starting power required by the heater rather than the power being drawn from the battery.

@dazmond has a diesel heater supplied by GrippaTank and he charges his batteries up every night to ensure they are fully charged the next day.

If the heater is drawing fuel from the van's tank then best practice when fitting the 'standpipe' is to leave a 'gap' between the bottom of the tube and the bottom of the tank. This is to ensure that the diesel heater doesn't use all your fuel. So you need to keep your van's tank above 1/4. In winter we keep our van's tank between 1/2 and full.

There is an issue with new vans with regard to some restrictions to fitting stand alone standpipes into plastic tanks. So different vehicle manufacturers have different methods of fitting auxillary supply pipes to draw diesel from the tank.

View attachment thermo90st-repair.pdf

 
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