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Rinse bars and your must have products

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Matthew Phillips

Well-known member
Messages
68
Location
London
Hello everyone, firstly thank you for the advice I asked for on the gardiner back pack. I bought one and its already come into its own. Slightly disappointed it doesn't have a see through strip on the side so you can see how much water you are putting in, I thought that might be quite obvious to put into the design but an excellent purchase for me. 

I have another couple of questions for you guys if you don't mind me asking, apologises if they are stupid questions. 

Firstly does the gardiner rinse bar mean I can rinse on the glass?

They recommend you up the pressure by 2.5 - 3 litres, how does this translate into the PSI? I work on 30-35 PSI generally. 

Secondly what cleaning products are must haves in your van? 

I don't carry any but the other day I was at a clients house and there BBQ had turned the frames black and left a greasy film on the glass. Not sure what I need to clean that off next time. Anything you carry whether its for the PVC or the glass please let me know.

As always thank you for any advice.

Many Thanks, 

Matt

 
Hello everyone, firstly thank you for the advice I asked for on the gardiner back pack. I bought one and its already come into its own. Slightly disappointed it doesn't have a see through strip on the side so you can see how much water you are putting in, I thought that might be quite obvious to put into the design but an excellent purchase for me. 

I have another couple of questions for you guys if you don't mind me asking, apologises if they are stupid questions. 

Firstly does the gardiner rinse bar mean I can rinse on the glass?

They recommend you up the pressure by 2.5 - 3 litres, how does this translate into the PSI? I work on 30-35 PSI generally. 

Secondly what cleaning products are must haves in your van? 

I don't carry any but the other day I was at a clients house and there BBQ had turned the frames black and left a greasy film on the glass. Not sure what I need to clean that off next time. Anything you carry whether its for the PVC or the glass please let me know.

As always thank you for any advice.

Many Thanks, 

Matt
I wouldn't worry too much about trying to sort barbeque contamination. If they're daft enough to do it by the window let them sort it. A normal wash and rinse is all I'd do.

Essential kit : Off the top of my head, for me a Gardiner super scraper to break the crust on baked on bird muck and allow the water in, for starters. 

 
Hello everyone, firstly thank you for the advice I asked for on the gardiner back pack. I bought one and its already come into its own. Slightly disappointed it doesn't have a see through strip on the side so you can see how much water you are putting in, I thought that might be quite obvious to put into the design but an excellent purchase for me. 

I have another couple of questions for you guys if you don't mind me asking, apologises if they are stupid questions. 

Firstly does the gardiner rinse bar mean I can rinse on the glass?

They recommend you up the pressure by 2.5 - 3 litres, how does this translate into the PSI? I work on 30-35 PSI generally. 

Secondly what cleaning products are must haves in your van? 

I don't carry any but the other day I was at a clients house and there BBQ had turned the frames black and left a greasy film on the glass. Not sure what I need to clean that off next time. Anything you carry whether its for the PVC or the glass please let me know.

As always thank you for any advice.

Many Thanks, 

Matt


2.5 to 3lpm  =  flow and has nothing to do with pressure. They are related but not the same. (The higher the pressure exerted on the water the faster the flow, but there comes a time when increasing pumping pressure doesn't increase flow. The faster the flow the higher the turbulence is inside the hose. This turbulence then becomes a restriction.)

If you are talking of figures 30 - 35 on a Spring controller then that again is flow and not pressure. Your pressure is set digitally when you calibrate the controller.

That setting (translated into pressure) will remain the same if you set your flow to 20 or to 90.

I have a low pressure rinse bar on my brush. I used it on the backpack today and I needed speed 2 for it to work nicely.

On the van mount I have a Varistream. That rinse bar will just work with a flow setting of 2 but 3 or 4 is much better.

I'm still not a fan of rinsing on the glass. So yes you can but I believe it needs to be done in conjunction with a swivel. Tilting the brush at say a 45 degree angle and dragging it across the glass will give you a flow behind the bristles.

I quite like rinsing off the glass on low level windows and it gives a better rinse coverage than fan jets.

But everything is a compromise. There is no perfect solution IMHO. I still revert back to pencils the get bits off the glass. We have been having a hard time with spider webs this year in the NE of England.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
must haves for me.......

virosol(very dirty first cleans and green UPVC/conny roofs/f/s/g jobs)

cif cream cleaner(ground in dirt on upvc cleans)

sticky stuff remover(sellotape marks on frames/stickers on glass)

squeegee off or HG window cleaning detergent(trad work)

melamine foam/non scratch scouring pads(rust marks and stubborn stains on UPVC) 

 
WFP and pure water. Anything else is subject to personal choice. Be it CIF, Unger Rub Out, TFR etc etc 
Do you carry COSH documents on the van for all the cleaning products you use. 

At one time I understood that you didn't need to if using common household cleaners, but TFR isn't a house hold cleaning product.

The regulations may have changed over the years. I don't know if my understanding is still valid.

 
Do you carry COSH documents on the van for all the cleaning products you use. 

At one time I understood that you didn't need to if using common household cleaners, but TFR isn't a house hold cleaning product.

The regulations may have changed over the years. I don't know if my understanding is still valid.
No because the TFR I use is diluted, don't know if this strictly covers me or not. It's transported in a 25l drum that's tied up inside the van. No markings or anything on, everyone should also inform their insurance companies if they use preparative chemicals. I rarely use it, probably over 18 months since I did, just put the hot and on for bad jobs. 

 
Do you carry COSH documents on the van for all the cleaning products you use. 

At one time I understood that you didn't need to if using common household cleaners, but TFR isn't a house hold cleaning product.

The regulations may have changed over the years. I don't know if my understanding is still valid.




Thats an an interesting point , I expect we should carry them on the van , but must admit I don’t , I have them in a file at home , surprisingly I have never been asked for them Evan when doing work for large national companies that have there own health and safety officers, I have done rams and they have been happy with that . 

No because the TFR I use is diluted, don't know if this strictly covers me or not. It's transported in a 25l drum that's tied up inside the van. No markings or anything on, everyone should also inform their insurance companies if they use preparative chemicals. I rarely use it, probably over 18 months since I did, just put the hot and on for bad jobs. 




From my Fireservice background I know all chemicals carried should be clearly marked on each drum what it contains , if you are a trade organisation like a chemical supply company you also have to carry cossh sheets but not sure about us as the end user having to carry them I expect we should .

 
2.5 to 3lpm  =  flow and has nothing to do with pressure. They are related but not the same. (The higher the pressure exerted on the water the faster the flow, but there comes a time when increasing pumping pressure doesn't increase flow. The faster the flow the higher the turbulence is inside the hose. This turbulence then becomes a restriction.)

If you are talking of figures 30 - 35 on a Spring controller then that again is flow and not pressure. Your pressure is set digitally when you calibrate the controller.

That setting (translated into pressure) will remain the same if you set your flow to 20 or to 90.

I have a low pressure rinse bar on my brush. I used it on the backpack today and I needed speed 2 for it to work nicely.

On the van mount I have a Varistream. That rinse bar will just work with a flow setting of 2 but 3 or 4 is much better.

I'm still not a fan of rinsing on the glass. So yes you can but I believe it needs to be done in conjunction with a swivel. Tilting the brush at say a 45 degree angle and dragging it across the glass will give you a flow behind the bristles.

I quite like rinsing off the glass on low level windows and it gives a better rinse coverage than fan jets.

But everything is a compromise. There is no perfect solution IMHO. I still revert back to pencils the get bits off the glass. We have been having a hard time with spider webs this year in the NE of England.
I have found the same with the spiders this year, dont ever remember there being this many.

 
Ubik 2000 - wouldn't be without it personally. There are better things/ more specific to certain tasks probably but as an all rounder it's my go to. 

Second for me is unger rub out, coupled with a good scrub pad worth every penny. 

These are the only chemicals/products I use not sure if your trad as may change the use of ubik but main concern would be not getting it all off as I've heard it can stain if left to dry. Never happened to me mind you. I'm sure that's because I'm overly cautious with it 

 
We have and they're all over the windows down Newmarket as well ??
I wander if its the fact that we exterminate o many on a daily basis? The same way if you trim a plant it grows more?

I must kill hundreds each day, sometimes I even feel bad for a minute. Then I think to myself that we are helping the spider population to evolve, and future generations might learn to stay away from the frames.

And another thing, why do the buggers always make a run for it upwards? The brush comes along and sheer panic and terror ensues, the bristles dig them out of the corners and they swiftly abseil down like the SAS. Only then to run back directly into the danger zone where death is inevitable, it then turns into something like the WW1 pictures you see of the trenches, body parts and corpses strewn all over.

If spiders were Jewish then hitter would have loved us!

Its got to the point where some days I wander if I'm cleaning windows or mass murdering spiders. I also wander if there is some chemical or similar we could squirt on the wall under the windows that would keep them away? Or even if we would be allowed to do so.

paul alan said:
I wander if its the fact that we exterminate so many on a daily basis? The same way if you trim a plant it grows more?

I must kill hundreds each day, sometimes I even feel bad for a minute. Then I think to myself that we are helping the spider population to evolve, and future generations might learn to stay away from the frames.

And another thing, why do the buggers always make a run for it upwards? The brush comes along and sheer panic and terror ensues, the bristles dig them out of the corners and they swiftly abseil down like the SAS. Only then to run back directly into the danger zone where death is inevitable, it then turns into something like the WW1 pictures you see of the trenches, body parts and corpses strewn all over.

If spiders were Jewish then hitter would have loved us!

Its got to the point where some days I wander if I'm cleaning windows or mass murdering spiders. I also wander if there is some chemical or similar we could squirt on the wall under the windows that would keep them away? Or even if we would be allowed to do so.

 
must haves for me.......

virosol(very dirty first cleans and green UPVC/conny roofs/f/s/g jobs)

cif cream cleaner(ground in dirt on upvc cleans)

sticky stuff remover(sellotape marks on frames/stickers on glass)

squeegee off or HG window cleaning detergent(trad work)

melamine foam/non scratch scouring pads(rust marks and stubborn stains on UPVC) 
Agree, but I use Ubik 2000 rather than Virosol. Having some sticky stuff (got mine from B&Q) is excellent for removing old sellotape off upvc doors where the customer had left note  to delivery guy etc. They are always pleased when you mention "Oh I,ve also sorted out that old glue and tape on your front door too!"

 
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