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40/40 booster pump.

Jimmy O

Member
Messages
90
Location
Ireland
Hi all, can anyone please explain how I connect the booster pump to fill the van ? 
does the yellow tap hose go into the blue top part or the green pump itself ?   
thanks

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Last edited by a moderator:
Now getting 6 bar, up from 3.75. Hopefully this will clean the **** out of the membrane as it was down to 85% rejection after only 7 months. 

 
Give it a good flush first mate. Mine certainly extended the life of my membrane. I always measure in PSI but my jump was only from 35-70. Still getting 95% rejection rate with the pump on now.

 
Slightly off topic @Jimmy O.

Why do you have your van ports on the side rather than at the back? We noticed another window cleaner did the same thing. His ports were full of road grime where ours at the back are somewhat protected by the 'plate' securing the hose couplers.

 
Good point Spruce, it’s how they fitted the fill/waste ports at Sureclean in Omagh. I’m always blasting off mud and grime from them, where as the hose port at the back doesn’t get anywhere near as bad. 
 

The van is filling up very quickly but my rejection rate is the same unfortunately. I’ll have to get a decent RO ordered up as I’ll be eating resin ! 
 

 
All good, nothing burst ? Happy with the pump set up, getting 110 psi, rejection has increased and van filling up in no time. 


Just another thing. Do you know what the impellor housing of the booster pump is made from?

A fellow windie uses a pump that has a cast iron housing. Each time he uses it he has to flush the rusty water out of it before connecting it up.

.

 
Just another thing. Do you know what the impellor housing of the booster pump is made from?

A fellow windie uses a pump that has a cast iron housing. Each time he uses it he has to flush the rusty water out of it before connecting it up.

.
Hi Spruce. I also have to flush the rusty water out before connecting to system, just a short burst clears the rusty water from the pump. 

 
Hi Spruce. I also have to flush the rusty water out before connecting to system, just a short burst clears the rusty water from the pump. 


Its easier for you as your booster pump isn't permanently fixed.

For someone who has a build in booster pump then they need to consider that they should go for a pump that has stainless steel components. This will add cost to the pump.

 
Its easier for you as your booster pump isn't permanently fixed.

For someone who has a build in booster pump then they need to consider that they should go for a pump that has stainless steel components. This will add cost to the pump.
Absolutely right, if the pump was built in the sediment filters would need constant replacement, it wouldn’t work with this particular model. The booster pump works well for me though as it’s halved the fill time and increased rejection , however I’ll be replacing the membrane next spring and replacing with a axeon hf4 as the membrane I have isn’t great. 

 
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