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Tank contaminated help?

WCF

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Milton fluid. 3 liters in a 400 ltr tank. Fill tank fully & leave overnight. Drain next day & flush out with hose pipe.

Another thing could be a build up of dirt within the pipes & fittings which are on the exit of your tank.

 
Right then guys I've got the fluid should I empty my tank before I put it in or pour it straight into the water that's already in there? Thanks for the help by the way

 
Can we just step back a bit here. I'm not disagreeing with other posters, but something just doesn't sound right. If everything was fine 2 weeks ago and now the water is coming out of your di vessel at 8ppm but the water in the tank is much more (3x more) than your tap tds. You empty the tank then refill and you have the same problem.

What happens if you fill a 20 liter plastic container with water rather than you van tank? Or even fill a small pyrex bowl - anything.

What can someone put in a tank that will make that much difference to the tds readings?

If you washed your lounge windows with the water in your tank and let them dry, you will see whether that water in your tank is contaminated or not by the spots left behind when dry.

If your tds meter is telling porkies you will end up chasing your tail every time.

We have a bottle of tds tester - water with a known tds so you can check your meter. Purchased from Daqua.

Water temperature makes a difference to tds readings, but not to that extent.

We use a couple of bottles of thick bleach in a 500 liter tank 3 quarters filled and drive around for a while. We have done this for years without issue. Water from treated tank drained into the drain. We have never really emptied every drop of water out of the tank either, just filled it up and started using it as normal.

 
Yeah water is leaving plenty of spots on the glass few complaints from today. So I've decided to use the baby sterilised liquid , will leave it in the tank overnight and drain out in the morning. Hopefully be all sorted by then.

 
If your tap water is 22-34 ppm how come you don't just fill the tank with tap water. What I would do is first check the tap water tds. Whilst filling the tank with tap water have the tank outlet open and run the pipe to the drain. In doing so will water down the higher tds water in your tank until it gets down to the same reading as your tap water. If it don't then you have something else causing the to tds to rise in your tank.

 
You can have a prime evil soap on the walls and at the bottom of your tank but I've found it don't make no difference to the tds of the water in the tank.

However if the algae growth gets bad then using a chem like bleach once a year will sort that out.

 
Can I ask what size/type di's are you using and are you using any prefilters from your old ro?

 
Well I just removed the ro membrane there's a couple of pre filter on there still as have not had time to take them off yet I'll upload a pic there 11lt vessels packed with mixed bed resin

 
As a test do away with the filters and connect the twin di's directly to the outside tap.

 
I have one of those 10" housing that has a di refillable canister in it.

One day I could not figure out why the tds from the ro was 10 then hit the di canister was coming out of it at 45. Turns out not only the inside of housing was covered in slim but also both filters on the di canister were covered too.

 
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I bleached the **** out of both will miltons bady setraliser liquid overnight then after emptying it out and rising under a tap I hooked it back up without and di resin in it and and flush it through for several hours. Stuck some fresh resin in the canister and hay presto was producing 000 ppm again.

 
The big giveaway I suppose was the ro water comming out of the di canister was a dirty brown colour but not anymore /emoticons/biggrin.png

 
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