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Do you need a pre filter for your RO?

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AGlassAct

Well-known member
Messages
1,129
Location
Burton On Trent
Just an example of how disgusting our mains water is - I recently built a trolley RO system and fitted a clear bowl pre filter instead of the blue housing, this is taken a month in with around 5000 litres through it. Do you need a pre-filter? God yes!!!!

This system is in a cellar (no daylight) at the school I work at, in contrast I have a similar set up at home to transfer rainwater to my van and that filter is still like new.

5be25b50e541a70736aa9b846a5094e4.jpg


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I like the idea off a clear filter housing

I'd like a 20 inch one

Do you know we're there available?

I checked mine other day and ithe looks new probably how much sediment you have in your water

 
Just an example of how disgusting our mains water is - I recently built a trolley RO system and fitted a clear bowl pre filter instead of the blue housing, this is taken a month in with around 5000 litres through it. Do you need a pre-filter? God yes!!!!This system is in a cellar (no daylight) at the school I work at, in contrast I have a similar set up at home to transfer rainwater to my van and that filter is still like new.

5be25b50e541a70736aa9b846a5094e4.jpg


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That's not dirty. /emoticons/wink.png

Ours sometimes look like that after the r/o has processed 500 liters. Last sediment filter I took our was so full of red slime that I couldn't grip it at the top with 2 fingers holding it vertically.

We all have to have sediment prefilters on Teesside.

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BrillDo you run the fiberdyne sedimet/carbon filter?
Sediment and then Fiberdyne carbon block. I would just leave the third filter empty. @Eviestevie. The carbon block never gets dirty as it has the same micron rating as the sediment filter. Particles less than 5 microns will pass through the sediment and the c/b filter.

On Teesside our water can be very laden with sediment. Its a little better this last year but in 2015 I replaced the sediment filter every month and the c/b filter every 3 months.

I have a pressure gauge on each side of the prefilters as well as clear 20" sediment and c/b housings. When I change the sediment filter both gauges read the same pressure. Over time the second gauge starts to read a lower and lower pressure. When the pressure difference gets to 10psi I change the sediment filter. Water pressure at the front gauge is 50psi with the r/o in action.

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Sorry to hijack the thread, but while you're on @spruce do you think this booster pump would be any good for me? My water pressure is about 38psi. It looks like this pump is 44psi. Would I be wasting my money buying this?
Clarke BPT1200SS 1” Stainless Steel Booster Pump - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

Waste of money tbh. You need this if you are going down that route

Switched Booster Pump Kit - 240v for PRF-RO systems - Booster Pumps - Water Treatment - Pure Water Systems - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

There was a discussion on the other forum several years back. One of the lads bought one of those Machine Mart boosters and it didn't work.

The only one that was suitable was the MachineMart CBM240E

Clarke CBM240E 1" Multi Stage 230V Booster Pump - Machine Mart - Machine Mart

This was recommended by GAPS water, but as someone pointed out to me, the pressure on the electronic E isn't much better than your tap water pressure.

I now believe that the Gardiner supplied booster pump is the best unit on the market as it has its own built in flow electronics. When the flow stops from the tap the pump switches off.

There are others out there, WaterGenie and Purefreedom for example, but each of them will need a controller to switch the pump off when the storage tank is full.

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