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New RO not performing. Arghhh!!

WCF

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@markh. Just a side point.

IMHO that tube heater isn't the ideal item to keep your r/o from frost in the winter. Its too small.

Storm Doris is on the way; apparently.

 
Ok guys,

Just switched the blanking plug and water input on the RO as per Alex Gardiners recommendation and flushed for 40 mins.

The result:

Waste flow is now much greater when tap on waste is fully open. tds is 72

Post RO tds = 31 using inline tds meter - 28 using handheld meter.

Post DI = 0. Indicating resin is good.

Pure water flow going into tank is very poor even when waste valve is fully shut.

Mains Tap water psi is approx 50-55

Hmm Your thoughts??

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I'm no expert Spruce is the one for that but I would expect a booster pump to improve your tds after 40/40 and fill faster.

mine comes out at 10ppm after ro and 0 after di I haven't timed it but i'm sure my ibc tank1000 litres fills in about 4-5 hours.

 
Mark - them speedfit valves (my experience and opinion) are hit and miss, I've had a few go faulty on my RO set up and I couldn't tell until it was too late as the lever was rotating as normal, when I removed it to inspect the lever was moving but the ball valve inside wasn't. The gate valves are much better - if you get one from a WFP supplier they usually have holes drilled in them to prevent you from closing the valve fully. You'll have to get the 1/2" adaptors so your pipework will fit but they are well worth it. Also - bear in mind the OPTIMUM pressure for your membrane (80-100psi) your tap pressure is well below that so without a booster pump you aren't likely to achieve the 50/50 you want. My pressure is the same as yours, my booster pump plugs it up to 110psi. The TDS post membrane changes from 17 to 6 when the booster is on, the waste to pure ratio is around the 50/50 mark then.

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If you order separately ask them to drill the holes for you and tell them it's for a 4040 set up.

They also sell the pump - genie in a box. I have one and so do a few on here. Pricey - but very good. The only other issue is you would need a pressure switch to turn the pump off once your tank is full. Have a search on here for booster pumps as some have used Clarke pumps with great success - some of them come with the switch already installed.

Gardiner also sell a 4040 booster pump with the option of the switch, you'll need a seat when you look at the price though!

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Last edited by a moderator:
2nd updateAfter system settling down, Post RO is now fluctuating between 1-10

Looking good

Just a booster pump I need now.

Thanks Alex & spruce

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New RO membranes can take between 24-48 hours of use to fully settle down and produce water at the correct level.

Booster Pump - If you are already producing between 1-10ppm then do you really need one? It would improve the quality a bit, but you could buy a lot of resin for the cost of a decent booster pump. Of course if you want to produce water more quickly than you are currently then a booster pump is worth looking at.

The Waste valve you are using has been modified for RO systems so cannot be fully turned off inside. Make sure when producing it is in the off position and this will improve quality and production rate. With your soft water input a flush of the membrane for a few minutes before every fill or for 10-15 minutes a week should be more than enough.

 
Pure flow slow at moment. But not to concerned yet but will look at buying gardeners one.

Yes the waste valve was fully shut when producing and there's me thinking I had a faulty valve. Alex your right, my RO did take time to settle down before tds came down eventually we got there. Need a pressure gage so looking out for good suitable one.

Thanks again for the info.

Just a small note. It would be wise IMHO to supply connection instructions with to housing and membrane I think. I like a simple life lol [emoji23]

Thanks [emoji120]

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Pure flow slow at moment. But not to concerned yet but will look at buying gardeners one.Yes the waste valve was fully shut when producing and there's me thinking I had a faulty valve. Alex your right, my RO did take time to settle down before tds came down eventually we got there. Need a pressure gage so looking out for good suitable one.

Thanks again for the info.

Just a small note. It would be wise IMHO to supply connection instructions with to housing and membrane I think. I like a simple life lol [emoji23]

Thanks [emoji120]

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We do have the connection information posted on the product page - FRP 4040 - 4"x40" RO Membrane Housing with Brackets - RO Housings & Fittings - Water Treatment - Pure Water Systems - All Products Gardiner Pole Systems

We have found that this works well as it is easy for clients and staff to refer to even on their phone, wherever they are.

 
SpruceThe valve is almost fully closed but flow is much more than pure. Seems to by by passing then? Perhaps faulty valve?

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Not necessarily as there are valves which are designed not to shut off completely to ensure the membrane isn't damaged. However, I prefer the brass gate valve suggested by another poster as it gives you better control.

In my experience having too faster flow through the waste will reduce the pressure on the membranes and reduce production rate. Just being able to throttle that slightly will help the membranes efficiency and you will produce a little more water.

However, I would never restrict my waste to less than 50% of the pure produced, unless there were exceptional circumstances for doing so.

 
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