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spruce last won the day on November 1

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About spruce

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    Grand Master

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  • Cleaning Method
    Water Fed Pole
  • when did you start window cleaning?
  1. Gardiner backpack

    I think you need to do a search on the forum for threads similar to this one. https://windowcleaningforums.co.uk/topic/23606-compact-hose-reel-is-there-such-a-thing/ However, I wouldn't advise about getting too carried away with adding a hose reel to a Gardiner Backpack. Most backpacks use small pumps which aren't really designed to push water down a long piece of hose. Overworking a small pump will reduce its longevity. The guys using the type of trolley mentioned in this post use bigger pumps. Bigger pumps use more current so require bigger batteries to power them. A backpack is heavy enough with 22 liters of water in it without adding further weight with a heavy battery and bigger pump. My son uses his (mine actually) Gardiner back pack 90% of the time. He links it with a SLX25 which he says provides him more than enough hose to work comfortably with. If he is doing 2 upstairs windows he positions the backpack on the ground in the 'middle' of the windows and cleans then cleans them both without moving the backpack. I can also manage fine with my SLX22 but the backpack is too heavy for this old man to lug around nowadays. If I have to use it I try to half fill it as its easier for me to carry. With a backpack you need to start at the closest point (thats when your backpack is full of water and its heaviest) and work further away as the pack gets lighter.
  2. I'm afraid I don't know the answer to that one. The probes measure the conductivity of the water. The more minerals and dissolved solids in the water the greater the conductivity. The TDS meter will translate this into a figure that we have come to understand. No dissolved solids in the water means a blank reading or zero. What one needs to be aware of is that as you join and add wire into an existing loom, you are going to increase the resistance in the cable, especially at the joins. (We are all aware that the long the cable the higher the voltage drop.) So I would hazard at a guess and say that this will also mess with the tds readings. However, that said, what would happen if you spliced in the same length of cable to each probe and then rechecked the calibration settings afterward? You might then have to adjust the setting with a know water quality using calibration fluid. (Daqua used to sell it.) I'm not recommending you do this, maybe @doug atkinsoncould enlighten us further as I wouldn't like to take responsibilty for suggesting something that sounds good in theory but that doesn't work in practice. I have one of these inline tds meters on my r/o system. It has 2 probes, in and out. I have the first probe in the pipework just before my di vessel and the second after my di vessel. Both probes have penty of cable. If I had a third probe I would fit it after the prefilters and before the r/o. Again that probe would be within a few inches of the others, so cable length would not be an issue. In the OP's case, I would try to rearrange my r/o system to accommodate the probes without having to modify the leads. .
  3. DI vessel

    what it your tap tds? no r/o membrane runs 100% efficiently - max is 98%.
  4. Rainwater vs DI water

    You aren't the first to make this observation. I don't use rainwater so I haven't any personal experience to agree or disagree with your observations. But I once read of someone who had one tank of rainwater and another purified with r/o and resin. He said that you could feel the difference between the water in each tank. Somehow, the rainwater just felt softer and he said it just seemed to clean better.
  5. Those 10" resin cartridges hold about 700ml of resin. According to Gardiner's resin calculator it should purify 3000 liters of water at 5ppm incoming. http://www.gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/Resin_Calculator.htm
  6. x line system fill up time

    What r/o have you got? Xline advertise that the unit comes with a 4040 r/o. If this is the case with yours then with good water pressure you would be looking at around producing 2lpm of pure. That's what mine does using an HF5 membrane and 50psi of water pressure. Pure to waste ratio 1 to 1. If it has come with a 4021 r/o then you can safely halve those production rates ie 1lpm. With the input water getting colder those production rates will drop a tad. I don't know how Xline throttle their waste but if your is adjustable you may need to restrict the waste valve by closing it a fraction, less than a 1/12th of a turn on the 'clock' if its a gate valve.
  7. No you don't remove the switch, you by pass it, so you remove it out of the electrical circuit. It still there, it just not working. You just disconnect the wires. So on the bottom of your controller you have 2 sets of wires. One says Battery and the other pump (pushing memory here.) The pump wires are connected up so the red wire that goes into the pump is joined to the red wire from the controller. That red wire was removed from the pressure switch. This will leave a second wire that will be disgarded. The black wire from the pump is connected/joined to the black wire from the controller.
  8. What are your current pressure settings. Varistreams are set at C from the factory. When our controllers were new we had to put them up to D in the winter.
  9. If the Varistream instructions were followed then he should have 'removed' the pressure switch from the circuit. If he still has the pressure switch in the circuit then this could also be causing a problem. We had this with one of the pumps used by a fellow windie locally. Once we removed the pressure switch from the circuit the Varistream controller returned to normal behaviour. The manufacturers of Spring controllers recommend that the pressure switch is left in place when connecting up their controller. Varistream say it should be removed. Varistream were designed around Shurflo pumps as they have a weakness with pressure switches. So their advice is worth following imho.
  10. Maybe that's good for you, but there are more accidents at height using ladders than not at height. This is why Health and Safety stepped in with legislating a different approach. People in general just don't believe an accident can happen to them. Do people always belt up when driving their cars? A small percentage don't - they have the equipment but they don't use it. I'm also guilty of that. I sometimes cut steel with my angle grinder but I don't always wear eye protection like I should. I have it, but I don't always use it. My glasses are good enough. I believe that I'm a reasonably intelligent person, but one day whilst I was up my ladders cleaning the first floor windows of some Victorian houses we did I just stepped off my ladders thinking I was on the ground. I have no explanation as to why I did that. I can't even make the excuse that the tread on my shoes was a little worn and my wet shoes slipped off the rung I didn't quite step on properly. I wish I had an explanation. I just seemed to go into a 'coma.' I was fortunate, I landed on soft ground and didn't break anything. But I was bruised and sore for a long time afterwards. So when a potential customer recently asked me to quote to do her windows trad I said no. I'd had my warning shot 13 years previously and its wfp or nothing. The thing is that when giving advise on a forum you need to look at the bigger picture. Do you suggest to a newbie window cleaner that the best and cheapest way to start window cleaning is off a ladder even although its worked for you? What happens if he takes your advise and later falls and kills himself? Could you live with that? I couldn't. I'm not having a go at your post. I'm just trying to look at it from a different angle. I carry ladders on the van and do use them from time to time. When I use them is my decision and will depend on the current circumstances. But no one will tell me when to use them and when not to use them and I won't clean any windows traditionally off ladders, ever. .
  11. I have never done it but one of the local windies has to link 2 x 100 hose reels together (200m) to do a job. But at that distance you can't expect miracles. I think there is a company selling microbore hose in 150m lengths but I can't remember who it is.
  12. Probably because he doesn't want to become a statistic like that cleaner in Oxford street recently.
  13. Split Charge Relay

    I don't know if that statement is true or not tbh. If you look at the video I put up of George Sterlings Range Rover charging his leisure battery then it looks as though its true. But I felt that the charge going into the battery via his Towbar was very low. When they changed over to his battery to battery charger supplied directly from his car battery via heavy duty cables, then the charge rate went up massively. So my first question was to ask myself why the towbar charging figure was so low. Was it due to thin or poor cabling and a poor connection at his caravan's electrical socket and plug at the towbar? But the YouTube video clip is a sales tool for his company - free advertising; so read into that what you will. I had a poor quality 15amp split charge relay on my van to begin with. It lasted 6 or 7 years before it 'blew'. It was supplied with 15 amp cable. I replaced it with the M Power unit with 70 amp cables. I can tell you that the charging rate between the 2 relays amp wise was very similar. I have an intelligent 10 amp battery charger. But after a days work the charger will push about 5 amps into the battery, even although my battery is 13.5 to 15 amps down at the end of the day. But this is where the whole problem starts. As the battery gets closer and closer to a full charge it accepts less and less of a charge. So even with intelligent charging my charger could be on for 3 or 4 hours before my leisure battery is full charged. If I look at my ampmeter gauge, my charger is not charging any faster than the alternator on my van did on the way home. My trip home is probably 15 to 20 minutes max, sometimes less than 5 minutes. So for me, I doubt that fitting a Battery to battery charger would make much difference in my business as I try to keep my leisure battery fully charged. I once read that it would take a 750km road trip for a vans alternator to fully recharge a flat leisure battery. Now a fancy battery to battery charger might make a difference when the leisure battery is down to 25 to 50% charged. A battery in this state of charge has low resistance and so the battery will accept a faster charge. I've seen my van alternator charging at about 22 amps after a heavy day but that could well drop to around 12 amps in a few miles. So if I haven't charged my battery for a few days then an hours drive home could well more than replace the charge I've taken out of it that day, especially if I went back to the same area the following day as my battery is going to get another charge on the way to work. But here's the next problem. According to battery manufacturer Numax, they recommend that your leisure battery should only be charged at a maximum of 10% of the battery's capacity. So my 110 amph battery should only be charged at a max of 11 amps. So putting 25 amps into the leisure battery isn't recommended. It can be done but it won't do the battery any good. However, if I had one of these new vans with a smart alternator and regenerative braking, then I would fit a battery to battery charger, even doing low mileage. It may not be the complete answer but if you are miles away from base and your battery 'fails' then you can run the engine and the charge generated will be enough to run the pumps and complete the job. We aren't in the leisure industry where they expect a caravan tow car to tow the caravan for a long distance to a caravan park and do the same travel on the way home. Our demands for power over a short period and short travelling miles are in a league all by ourselves. This is why Numax doesn't like wfper's using their batteries for window cleaning - we are battery abusers according to them.
  14. Split Charge Relay

    The internals inside a VSR aren't very complicated as its just a step up from an SCR. But battery to battery chargers are a whole new ball game. They all full of sophisticated electronics and algorithims. Its little wonder that there aren't many around. But as they are becoming more popular they are coming down in price. The Sterling offering was £179.99 last time I looked.
  15. Split Charge Relay

    No it isn't I'm afraid. Its the Durite ones that are. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-727-33-12V-140A-140-AMP-DURITE-SPLIT-CHARGE-RELAY-VOLTAGE-SENSITIVE-CAMPERS/191899198454?epid=2224652821&hash=item2cae1563f6:g:sdUAAOSw-3FZDaT8 My Mpower unit is also bi directional https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mtr-Split-Charge-Relay-Kit-12V-140amp-M-Power-VSR-System-Ready-Made-Leads-T4-T5/262357392539?hash=item3d15b81c9b:g:42UAAOxylpNTPwrr This is a Durite copy as well https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5mtr-Professional-Split-Charge-Kit-12v-140amp-M-Power-Voltage-Sense-Relay/262893766265?hash=item3d35b08679:g:c34AAOSw5cNYWkF0