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spruce last won the day on June 22

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About spruce

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  • Cleaning Method
    Water Fed Pole
  • when did you start window cleaning?
  1. Half the voltage means half the speed and half the torque. If you feed it with 24v the motor is too fast. The was a guy on the other forum that started this diy conversion. He connected 2 x 12v batteries together in series and said it is was too fast and too powerful.
  2. It looks good.
  3. Difficult to say. http://www.gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/Resin_Calculator.htm The problem is; at what point is the resin spent. Is in when it first reaches 1ppm or 5ppm or 10ppm? Personally I can see spotting in low level sun at 5ppm, so I never let my pure tds rise above 1. If you put your figures in; 5ppm and 7700 liters of pure used a month (350 x 22 days) then the calculator says you should replace resin at 4.8 weeks. However, whilst we say we are using x amount of water a day, it could be much less if we have bad weather and loose several days cleaning. So it could be that we use less and so our resin should last longer. .
  4. Here is a video on why you need an MPPT controller You need a controller because a 100w solar panel has a nominal voltage of about 18v which is too high to connect directly to a 12v battery. My son connected a small solar battery charger to his car battery his father in law gave him and destroyed it. When I put an amp meter on the solar panel in direct sunshine it was pushing 24v. .
  5. See this video to understand why it wouldn't work if your van has regenerative braking. Here's another video Imho the purpose of this video is primarily a sales promotion video solving a problem. As a technical electronics company he is going to see the old fashioned split charge relay as obsolete technology. But for us plebs who still run old vans, we still find the provide a reasonably satisfactory result. I don't know if I replaced my vsr with a Battery to battery charger I would see a remarkable difference in charging rates because I still am doing minimal mileage a day. I don't think I want to spend £200 to find out either when I don't need to. Am I frightened of change? Cleaners with new vans will be forced to buy this technology. But where are we going to be in 10 or 20 years time? Will be have battery driven vans that wfp cleaners can source ample power from for a day's work? If we drift back to petrol driven engines in vans regenerative braking won't be necessary unless or taxation forces the manufacturer's hands. .
  6. I don't have solar, but from all the research I have done its imperative that you buy a genuine MPPT controller. When I mean genuine I mean something like a Victron unit. Just check on YouTube under MPPT controllers - there are several reviews on cheap mppt controllers and how some don't do what they say on the box. PWM controllers are a waste of time in our climate. Here's one on many explanations https://www.victronenergy.com/blog/2014/07/21/which-solar-charge-controller-pwm-or-mppt/ As far as a split charge relay is concerned, you need to identify if your van will work with one or you need a battery to battery charger. Does the alternator charge the starter battery all the time? If it does then a hd vsr is the way to go if you are thinking about a twin leisure battery setup in the future. You you are going to add a solar panel then there is no problem fitting a vsr or battery to battery charger as well and running both together. Motor home and marine industries do this all the time.
  7. I see the photo. It looks good. If you are going to add a second battery then you will need a bigger vsr. That Smartcom vsr won't handle the surge going into 2 leisure batteries imho. The other option would be to add a second Smartcom and only run the hose reel from that. I would just see how you go first before you start upgrading the charging system. You mentioned that you turned the adjuster pot on the relay and got it going again. Those adjusters are quite sensitive and its to adjust when the unit activates and when it cuts out. So if you know where the original setting was (position of the screw head) I would recommend to put it back there as it might mess your cut in and cut out parameters. I don't know what the Smartcom cut in cut out parameters are (the remaining van isn't here for me to check) and they vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. My unit cut in is 13.3vdc and cutout is 12.8vdc. They are all in the vary similar range. If you try to set it up using a voltmeter, you will find that the VSR could still be linking the batteries together for some time after the engine is switched off. This is correct. A nearly fully charged leisure battery will 'trickle' charge at between 14.4 to 14.6vdc (on my van anyway) which both batteries get. Once you switch the engine off, that voltage quickly drops to begin with as the the voltage across the battery stabilises, but it takes a while before it drops to the cutoff voltage. I find voltage stabilisation of my starter battery takes longer than my leisure battery, so there is a minimal drain of a few watts from the starter battery to the leisure battery. But its minimal. .
  8. Your r/o is running at 95.5% efficiency. It could be a little better but not at the point where you would consider changing the membrane. You are looking after the r/o well, so if all things are as they have always been then chances are that the last resin cartridge is suspect.
  9. As @HALTON says. Just remove the front cover by removing the 4 screws. Separating the cover will leave the base and that will have provision for you to screw the box onto the plyling with 4 small wood screws.
  10. All it means is that the internal electronics will handle a higher current or load. The rate of charge going into the battery is governed by the resistance within the battery itself. I have a 90amp alternator in my van and have never seen the charge rate higher than 22 amps. This 22 amps is an initial surge current on starting the engine and drops with a few moments to around 8 amps after a full days work using a 110 amph battery. A vehicle's alternator is brilliant at supplying all the electrical current your vehicle's accessories need. But it is a poor battery charger. It doesn't have to be good because the couple of seconds it takes to starting a diesel engine will take around 5 amph from the starter battery. Just compare how quickly an intelligent battery charger will fully charge your leisure battery to the length of time you would need to drive to achieve the same results. If you want to achieve a faster charge then you might need to consider a Sterling battery to battery charger, which has the attributes of an intelligent charger built into it. But limited driving (like we do) won't be enough to recharge your leisure battery after a days work.
  11. Nobody will be able to give you an answer because even if they have the same system, their situation will be different. Maybe you did get a bad resin cartridge but an increase in resin usage can be many other things or a combination of them as well. Maybe the next resin cartridge will be fine. Do you fill your own cartridge or do you buy them already filled? Sometimes we think we have used the same amount of water when we have actually used more. You really need to try to eliminate the others before you can identify the culprit. What is your tap water tds? What is your tds of the pure after it leaves the membrane (not after the di?) The higher the tds output from the membrane the more resin you will use polishing the water off. So if you have a membrane failure then you will use more resin as the membrane becomes less efficient. What's your water pressure? Has it dropped recently? What's your pure to waste ratio when you are processing water? How old is your r/o? If its more than 6 months old, when did you last replace prefilters?
  12. That's wrong. I would open the end with the single port to ensure the membrane is fitted correctly. Attached are fitting instructions which apply to both the 4021 and 4040. rokit.pdf Snap ring A O Ring installation.pdf
  13. When we had 65psi pumps we had 2 hose reels of 1/2" garden hose. One had 30 meters and the other had 40 meters. We joined them together on occasion when we needed extra length. A 65psi pump worked fine with that hose. But 100m of meters of mini and microbore were game changes as far as wfp was concerned, but a 65psi pump didn't always cut the mustard. Then as if it was planned, 100psi pumps miraculously appeared on the scene. I'm pretty certain that they were actually identical pumps so all they did was change the pressure switch spring. Some have actually adjusted the p/s back to cutoff at a lower pressure using the adjusting screw on top of the pressure switch housing.
  14. No. The inlet is on the side with a single port. The waste is at the opposite end, also at the side. The pure outlet port is in exactly the center on the same housing.
  15. Used Smartcom vsr's on 2 vans for around 6 years with no issues and recommend them. The first scr I had on my van burnt out but that wasn't a Smartcom, it was another make, and tbh is was a 15amp relay. I now have a Durite copy (M Power) with thicker 70 amp cables. There are a couple of different names of these units in different colours; M Power and Altec are two. They work the same as the Smartcom except they are bi directional which the Smartcom isn't. It means that if you put a charger on your leisure battery whilst its connected up in the van, the vsr will activate and charge your van battery at the same time. (Charging rates or amps between the old 15amp scr and the new M Power are no different. So if you think that you will charge the leisure battery faster with the all singing all dancing unit, my experience is that you won't.) At first I didn't know if I liked the idea, so I added an on/off switch to the earth of the vsr. So if I just want to charge the leisure battery with my charger (I plug my charger in the charge my leisure battery) I can switch the vsr off. I usually leave my intelligent battery charger on all night and was confused when I opened the van up in the morning and saw the charger was still charging. I soon realised that using the remote central locking to open the van was enough of a power drop in the van battery to kick the charger on to replenish that. Once I realised that I haven't bothered with the switch. But it does give me the option of removing the battery and running the van engine by deactivating the relay.