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spruce last won the day on May 22

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About spruce

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  • Cleaning Method
    Water Fed Pole
  • when did you start window cleaning?
  1. I honestly don't know the answer to that one. I've read conflicting reports, some agreeing with this statement and other saying the opposite. Logic tells me that if the pressure is higher the pump won't work as hard, but I've seen specs that advise their pump will boost existing pressure by X. Over the years we have read of a few windies who, according to them, have used similar pumps successfully. Here some useful info http://www.globalspec.com/learnmore/flow_control_flow_transfer/pumps/booster_pumps If you look at the installation manual, page 8 of 16, 4.17 under cold water installation - Do not connect this pump to the mains supply. Why not? The installation manual and the advertising spiel differ. Its a good price though. I've never heard of a windie using one before - you are the first. The specs seem to indicate to me that the 6 bar is the maximum applied pressure to the pumps inlet. Flomate Mains Boost pump is designed to be connected directly to the incoming mains and will deliver an additional 1.5 bar pressure to the existing mains pressure and a maximum flow rate of 12 litres minute. . 247594-Automatic-Flow-Switch-Pumps-IG.pdf
  2. It will be psi or bar as @Densays. There are special 'cups' that measure the volume of water called Weir cups. But they are expensive for what they are. To run a 4040 you need around 9 liters of water a minute. If you tap is delivering more than that then a booster pump will work fine. Lets take my 4040 as an example. The water pressure in my tap is 50psi with the r/o connected up. The tap delivers 13 liters per minute of water. At 50 psi I get 2 liters of pure with 2 liters of waste as I've set it up that way. If I put a booster pump into my system then my pressure will increase as the pump is 'forcing' more water into the r/o. It's taking that extra water from what my tap already delivers. So the end result will be that my r/o will produce more pure per minute and more waste as well.But I will fill my IBC tank much faster. So if my r/o is now using 9 liters of water per minute with the booster pump, I still have 4 liters left over to supply the rest of the house. Pressure and flow aren't the same thing, but generally speaking and as far as we are concerned, increasing the pressure on the water will produce a faster flow of water through the hose. (There does come a time though when too much water is forced through a pipe and it becomes turbulent. Once this point is reached doubling water pressure doesn't increase the flow much.) .
  3. That's the remains of Ivy that's been removed. Its not your problem. The roots if Ivy impregnate themselves into the plastic. The frames are damaged. You might be able to remove them with abrasive means, but you run the risk of removing the outer polished layer of the frame. Don't get involved is my advice. We have cleaned some windows for the past 10 years that had Ivy growing on them and then removed. The roots are still there.
  4. I agree. Its not actually a booster pump. I use the SPE800 as a transfer pump but it has no pressure behind it. Gardiners booster pump would be better as it has a higher delivery pressure. The only one GAPS recommended at one time was the Clarke CBM240E. The 'trouble' with the Genie pump its its lack of controller. Its pricey to begin with. But if you want pricey, look on Grippa website under booster pumps.
  5. Oh well, that died.
  6. I can adjust it. The red handled gate valve on top of the r/o is the 'line' out to waste. I drilled a 1mm hole through the 'paddle' of the gate valve to ensure that the gate valve was never closed. I was concerned in case my son or son in law, both helping themselves to water in those days, would switch it off by mistake. I can close the valve off a little more and get 60% pure to 40% waste if I want to.I have an inline tds meter so I can tweak the valve to where the r/o is performing at it best. In my case its 50/50. @doug atkinsonrecently advised someone to remove the PF gate valve (they also drill a hole through the paddle) and replace it with one that doesn't have a hole drilled in it as it will give you more control. But an r/o will only produce what the membranes are capable of producing. A single 50GPD will hardly produce any water at all not matter how perfect the conditions are. We found we could manage with a 450GPD with 2 cleaners, but only just. Not having enough water is fatal for business growth. That 450GPD ran virtually non stop. It took about 28 hours to fill the IBC tank. I would fill my van tank of 650 liters on Saturday and son's 500 liter tank in his van on Sunday. The IBC tank would be full on Monday afternoon when I would refill my vans tank. That r/o then worked constantly until the following Monday when the weather was good. That r/o is nearly 5 years old now. I should have bought it 12 years ago when we started wfp cleaning rather than mess on with small r/os.
  7. 13 years. Then I would probably just replace that pane of glass as a goodwill gesture. Not worth the cost of polishing it out. The door glass of my van is full of scratches caused by bits of grit that gets trapped in the trim.
  8. Here are two photos of my 4040 mounted on the wall of my garage. I couldn't take a photo in front of it as my Venter Trailer is in the way. Right hand bottom corner. Water in with solenoid valve. Hose to first filter = sediment filter, second = carbon block. Then to r/o inlet at the bottom. Waste outlet at the top with the red handled gate valve and the other outlet with the yellow hose is pure. Waste goes to the drain outside and pure goes to the blue di vessel. After di it goes to my IBC storage tank which isn't shown but is behind me in front of my GTE Venter trailer. I have a tube heater inside at the bottom on a Froststat to keep the inside of the cabinet at 8 degrees. The cabinet has a removable cover that seals closed. Our tap water pressure is 50 psi and our tap water tds is between 99 and 125. R/o membrane is 4040 hf5 with no booster pump. Waste to pure ratio = 1 to 1 and so r/o produces 2 lpm of pure and at the same time sends 2 liters of waste per minute to the drain.
  9. Its a di vessel full of resin. http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/de-ionisation/7-litre-resin-bead-pressure-vessel-canister-1808.html resin http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/water-treatment/de-ionisation/tulsion-mb115-virgin-polymer-mixed-bed-resin-beads-25l.html If you have a close look at this PureFreedom complete van mounted system you will begin to see everything you will need to filter water and store it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/650L-FULLY-FITTED-WATER-FED-POLE-WINDOW-CLEANING-SYSTEM/250667389976?_trksid=p2481888.c100651.m4497&_trkparms=aid%3D777001%26algo%3DDISCO.FEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160801204525%26meid%3D23614890dfb543c9a142b60291e0619a%26pid%3D100651%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trkparms=pageci%3Aef2629f2-40c5-11e7-9ff4-74dbd1809d16%7Cparentrq%3A3c4f598215c0aa493155651dfffab9ef%7Ciid%3A2
  10. I just found Pureglaze as you replied. They appear to do streamline products. Basically, with waterfed pole r/o systems we would use 2 prefilters, either 10" or 20", the first would be a sediment 5 micron filter and the second a carbon block which removes chlorine from the water. The reason for this is that chlorine eats away at the r/o membrane material. So now the r/o membrane size would depend on how much water you need to have each day. After the membrane housing you would then have a di vessel full of resin that will polish the water off. A reverse osmosis membrane will at best remove 97 to 98% of the dissolved solids (minerals) in the water. The remaining 2 or 3% will be removed by the resin. We process water and sent it to a 1000 liter IBC tank and transfer it to a tank on the van each day. We initially started off with a Ro-Man type small reverse osmosis system. It was rated at 275GPD (US gallon = 4 liters; a day = 24 hours and liters are at optimal pressure and water temperature. Under normal tap water pressure and temperature in the Uk divide that by 2 and 3 in winter.) That was upgraded to a 450GPD which supplied 2 cleaners with a van each rationing water toward the end of the week. We upgraded that to a 4040 with 20" prefilters and a 7 liters di vessel and we now have plenty of water. Have a look on www.daqua.co.uk as you will see a itemised components listed.
  11. Rand to pound exchange rate has improved a little to R16.70 to £1. Last time I checked a long time back it was R22.00 to £1.00. So with shipping costs, import duty, sales tax etc your cost of goods is going to be expensive. Many years ago there was a SA guy working in Randburg in the vicinity of Ferriera's Hardware shop in Honeydew. He asked questions and then we never heard from him again. (This was on another forum.) He said he was cleaning windows of homes in golf club estates. I'm guessing that the business would be more commercial in shopping malls such as Menlyn or Atterbury Value Mart which didn't exist when we lived in Garsfontein. Pick and Pay was in the middle of nowhere in 1984/5. I had a feeling that Gardiners did supply equipment into South Africa but its not included on their International maps as I've just looked. I see there is a company called Window Gleam solutions with a 011 area code telephone number, but they don't show prices on their website. What type of work do you envisage doing and are you going to be a one man band or will you have semi skilled labourers working with you? What sort of system really depends on your requirements. IMHO 180 to 240ppm is well in the reverse osmosis territory. The size and cost of the r/o will depend on how much water you will use per day. Just using di with resin to purify the water is going to cost an arm and a leg in resin costs. The other issue is equipment security. We mainly use vans in the UK, bakkies are few are far between. The problem with bakkies is that equipment left on them is an easy target for theft.
  12. Its up to them to prove that you scratched the glass @C Rose Cleaning Services, not for you to prove you didn't. One scratch with grit, maybe, 4 or 5, no. How did the dirt stick to the bristles to keep scratching the glass? Added: The window looks like a sash window. I wouldn't be surprised if grit was responsible when opening and closing the window if they are sash windows. Are you sure they are scratches on the cill? I would probably say the they are from the painter when he first applied the paint/varnish. During application the brush marks will be uneven, so some lines will be thicker and some thinner. If the paint/varnish is wearing away there are going to be lines where there is no paint/varnish left. Personally I would not accept responsibility and ask for payment in both cases. If there is no payment, then its up to you whether you take it to the small claims court or not. Personally, I won't do any more work for them. They will just end up to be trouble. .
  13. You're right. 3mm jets didn't work for us way back. So we have 'written them off.' It could well be that with the acquisition of the Aquadapter and now the univalve as an easier way to stop water flow, they could be a worthwhile consideration again. Time to dig the old brush out again me thinks.
  14. I'm short so I still needed to use a step ladder to reach the top of the downstairs windows. When I started wfp I also thought that I would do tops wfp and trad the bottoms. It took me less than 10 minutes on the first day to decide that wfping the bottom as well was the quickest way forward.
  15. Th other thing I noticed was that if the leisure battery is fairly fully charged the VSR takes quite a while to isolate the leisure battery. I've seen a small discharge (3 to 5 watts) from the van's battery to the leisure battery for 10 - 15 minutes. However, the moment you put a load on the leisure battery the connection breaks. It remains connected when the voltage on each battery is high and only disconnects when the voltage drops as it stabilizes.