Adjustable Dogears

Discussion in 'Tutorials & DIY' started by fenderjaguar, Jun 3, 2015.

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  1. fenderjaguar

    fenderjaguar Well-Known Member
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  2. Eric Gilliand

    Eric Gilliand Well-Known Member
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    Tried something like this last year but just used a couple of small Allen bolts directly through the channel. It was OK but quite 'fiddly'. How are you finding this solution?
     
  3. Smurf

    Smurf Banned
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  4. Pickingpaul

    Pickingpaul Forum Addict
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    Thats an i terestingway of doing it, i tried once glueing on the right sized piece of old rubber where u put the screw, i seem to remember good results.

    My concern with the bolt is accidentially losing your grip occasionally and squeegee falls and potentially scratches the glass witht he edge of the bolt? But u could put a little plastic or rubber cap on the end to combat that
     
  5. fenderjaguar

    fenderjaguar Well-Known Member
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    Yeah, if you had a tap and die it would be far better to go through the channel itself, great idea.

    And really I was not using this for practical use. More experimental to see exactly how much distance was needed for certain seals with a feeler gauge etc. It does work great though.

    It would be nice to have a dog ear system that can literally be switched on and off quickly on the fly, but I think it would have to be quite intricate...

    Can pretty much be summed up in this thread smurf:

    http://windowcleaningforums.co.uk/threads/after-weeks-of-using-the-liquidator.15911/

    Unlikely to happen in this setup, since the rubber is retained by crimping the channel in a vice etc (it's very tight). But very good idea paul, infact a small rubber pad slightly larger than the end of the grub screw be best, since the screw is really about 1 mm from the end of the rubber.
     
  6. Pickingpaul

    Pickingpaul Forum Addict
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    Unlikely to happen in this setup, since the rubber is retained by crimping the channel in a vice etc (it's very tight). But very good idea paul, infact a small rubber pad slightly larger than the end of the grub screw be best, since the screw is really about 1 mm from the end of the rubber.[/QUOTE]

    Also , u know how on dogeared channels and liquidators the rubber wears out first where the pressures put at the ends, i imagine a metal screw will eat a hole pretty fast, have u used this at work yet mate?

    Yeah the rubbers not a bad idea is it, if u use the round bottom part roughly cut in half i think thats about right. I cant remember if i got it right or not, i know polzn bladz showed it in a video over a year ago
     
  7. fenderjaguar

    fenderjaguar Well-Known Member
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    No, I have only used it on my own windows. Like I said, it was experimental.

    See, my issue with the liquidator itself is that it actually pushes the rubber proud of where it would be in a flat line with the rest of the rubber. So, even before the rest of the rubber hits the glass, the liquidator dog ear is forcing the end of the rubber against the glass and then using the flexibility of the plastic dog ear to push back. But it still puts too much pressure on the rubber, more than is needed, even if you're light handed.

    At least with an adjustable system, you can apply only what is needed. Now, I know my screw/dog ear is not itself sitting on a flexible/effectively spring loaded platform, but it's not the rubber at the end which is making contact with the glass first, it's the whole rubber.
     
  8. Pickingpaul

    Pickingpaul Forum Addict
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    It seems u are fixing that issue when its not really an issue in the first place.

    The reason the clips on the liquidator are pushing the rubber so at rest its not straight is to give the right amount of pressure needed for use on the thinest seals, u can adjust it by heating in boiling water and bending back, i have done this and then its straight like a regular channel.

    But i dont think u will notice that u dont need quite as much pressure as u dont really need much in the first place.

    another thing i have noticed about your mod is the screw doesnt quite reach the very end of the rubber, the 2/3mm at the very end of the rubber isnt kept presured down and there fore can ride up thin seals and leave solution on the glass. U can trim the rubber to match the edge of the screw but i guess u are getting that metal screw closer to window frams and potential glass contact and small damage

    Its a gd prototype though, well done.
     
  9. H MAN

    H MAN Forum Addict
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    Yes can see what you want to do here.
    But like anything more things that are on something the more problems you have down the line.
    Have put this video (below) up on another post before.
    Been using this for a while now and had no problems and able to use as we normally squeegee with any other squeegee.

    [​IMG]
     
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