Is it true you should run water as slow as possible through DIs?

[slippy]

Does a DIs resin last longer if you run the water through it slowly? I am thinking of using running water through mini bore to my twin/triple DI set up. My local TDS is 240-310, but I can't use an RO because I live in a flat.

With this kind of set up where the DIs change around; the first one becomes the second one etc how do you guys remember which is the first DI and which the second? Write on it in pencil?

Also, I heard that cleaning to a TDS of 15 is fine. I also heard it depends on the area not just the TDS level. This affects what actually is in the total dissolved solids (TDS) I live in Poole/Bournemouth anyone know if this area is ok to clean at a TDS of 15?

 

[Poles Apart]

I just write 1 and 2 with a permanent marker on the top. I'm changing resin today it's gone up to about 0.03 I normally let it go up to 0.10 but not sure I'd let it go up any further? As for resin longevity it's reported that processing water slowly is beneficial but not sure by how much, I normally leave it on all day running into a butt.

 

[Marko067]

Try cleaning your own windows with it and see. Choose a sunny day so it will highlight any problems. I cleaned for a day once with it at .036 due to an error I didn't catch till too late. I had no complaints. But I absolutely do not recommend it. I try to keep mine between 000 and 005. Where I am in Essex I have no problems with that.

 

[Dave B]

I've been cleaning for 2 weeks now with 004-005 with no issues

 

[mark m]

run it as slow as you can and 15ppm will be fine you are only up the road from me so if you need any help give me a shout

 

[doug atkinson]

No one can advise you on the spotting issue as each water structure is different up and down the country. In Scotland which has the softest water 025 ppm guys straight away see spotting at around 007 ppm. Not noticeable on a cloudy day but as soon as the sun hits the glass clearly visible. Metal minerals and sodium in water cause spotting so you really don't know what is in your water unless you get it analysed in a lab. My advise it's your business so don't risk up the reputation that you build and be safe.

As you water is hard a strong based resin will be suitable for your ppm and you can run off the first 800 litres with no problem at tap flow rate. As soon as the ppm creeps up slow the flow rate down and give the vessel a shake and you will get a couple of 100 litres more. Weak base resin with the likes of Unger, Ionic, Indion, Tulsion MB-111 are not suitable at high ppm.

 

[spruce]

No one can advise you on the spotting issue as each water structure is different up and down the country. In Scotland which has the softest water 025 ppm guys straight away see spotting at around 007 ppm. Not noticeable on a cloudy day but as soon as the sun hits the glass clearly visible. Metal minerals and sodium in water cause spotting so you really don't know what is in your water unless you get it analysed in a lab. My advise it's your business so don't risk up the reputation that you build and be safe.
As you water is hard a strong based resin will be suitable for your ppm and you can run off the first 800 litres with no problem at tap flow rate. As soon as the ppm creeps up slow the flow rate down and give the vessel a shake and you will get a couple of 100 litres more. Weak base resin with the likes of Unger, Ionic, Indion, Tulsion MB-111 are not suitable at high ppm.

I agree with Doug. We can't get away with anything above 7 where we live on Teesside.

I believe that our customers can see spots from inside before we see them from the outside. I'm also of the opinion that when you have been cleaning for a while and they are happy with the quality of the job, customers don't check the results like they do when you first start.

Also if you have done a good job with each previous clean, a slip up as per @Marko067 is usually ignored by the majority of customers.

-

 

[Den]

Hello Mark Im assuming we are both using hanningfield resevoir, what's your ppm before and after RO.

Try cleaning your own windows with it and see. Choose a sunny day so it will highlight any problems. I cleaned for a day once with it at .036 due to an error I didn't catch till too late. I had no complaints. But I absolutely do not recommend it. I try to keep mine between 000 and 005. Where I am in Essex I have no problems with that.

 

[slippy]

I just write 1 and 2 with a permanent marker on the top. I'm changing resin today it's gone up to about 0.03 I normally let it go up to 0.10 but not sure I'd let it go up any further? As for resin longevity it's reported that processing water slowly is beneficial but not sure by how much, I normally leave it on all day running into a butt.

Maybe a thick pencil/carpenters pencil is better, with permanent marker you will constantly be rubbing it out and writing next to it. 1 crossed out write 2 then 2 crossed out then 1 look a right mess

 

[Alien Human]

Does a DIs resin last longer if you run the water through it slowly? I am thinking of using running water through mini bore to my twin/triple DI set up. My local TDS is 240-310, but I can't use an RO because I live in a flat.
With this kind of set up where the DIs change around; the first one becomes the second one etc how do you guys remember which is the first DI and which the second? Write on it in pencil?

Also, I heard that cleaning to a TDS of 15 is fine. I also heard it depends on the area not just the TDS level. This affects what actually is in the total dissolved solids (TDS) I live in Poole/Bournemouth anyone know if this area is ok to clean at a TDS of 15?

Slippy - are your di vessels in your van purifying or do you fill up at home and put pure into the tank?

If there not in the van then have you thought about putting them in the van? ........much easier

So you'd full tank in van with tap water - pump - pre pre di vessel - pre di vessel - di vessel and then out through your hose to clean windows.

When I fill up my gardiners back pack with pure from the van I just turn the pump up to full throttle (99 flo) and crack on - always comes out pure.

As soon as the pure goes above 0ppm I change over one of the 3 vessels. Like knowing I'm using nothing but pure and they all just move along to become a pre filter vessel anyway. Your really not going to be saving much £ by watching the ppm go up to lets say 7ppm unless your literally using X1 vessel.

 

[Poles Apart]

Maybe a thick pencil/carpenters pencil is better, with permanent marker you will constantly be rubbing it out and writing next to it. 1 crossed out write 2 then 2 crossed out then 1 look a right mess

I use permanent markers as I know by looking 2 will become number 1as I only change the resin in the first vessel then reverse vessels

 

[dave83]

No one can advise you on the spotting issue as each water structure is different up and down the country. In Scotland which has the softest water 025 ppm guys straight away see spotting at around 007 ppm. Not noticeable on a cloudy day but as soon as the sun hits the glass clearly visible. Metal minerals and sodium in water cause spotting so you really don't know what is in your water unless you get it analysed in a lab. My advise it's your business so don't risk up the reputation that you build and be safe.
As you water is hard a strong based resin will be suitable for your ppm and you can run off the first 800 litres with no problem at tap flow rate. As soon as the ppm creeps up slow the flow rate down and give the vessel a shake and you will get a couple of 100 litres more. Weak base resin with the likes of Unger, Ionic, Indion, Tulsion MB-111 are not suitable at high ppm.

doug, what the best resin on the market, mb 115? is there a big difference?

 

[doug atkinson]

Hi Dave yes there is a difference in grades in resin. It is all about moisture content capacity etc..

Tulsion MB-115 at specification is a high grade resin with high yield. The difference with a strong base it can take high ppm and give you 000ppm but weak base will not give that output and will come out around 003 ppm.

 

[kevinc250]

No one can advise you on the spotting issue as each water structure is different up and down the country. In Scotland which has the softest water 025 ppm guys straight away see spotting at around 007 ppm. Not noticeable on a cloudy day but as soon as the sun hits the glass clearly visible. Metal minerals and sodium in water cause spotting so you really don't know what is in your water unless you get it analysed in a lab. My advise it's your business so don't risk up the reputation that you build and be safe.
As you water is hard a strong based resin will be suitable for your ppm and you can run off the first 800 litres with no problem at tap flow rate. As soon as the ppm creeps up slow the flow rate down and give the vessel a shake and you will get a couple of 100 litres more. Weak base resin with the likes of Unger, Ionic, Indion, Tulsion MB-111 are not suitable at high ppm.

question dougie,i've been pondering this for a while,di before pump or after? not that it concerns me as i'm ro but it was something i've been thinking about recently

 

[doug atkinson]

I always advise tank to pump with tank filled with pure water. Less chance of air locks and your pump is not working as hard so will last longer

 

[kevinc250]

I always advise tank to pump with tank filled with pure water. Less chance of air locks and your pump is not working as hard so will last longer

i meant would it be easier on the pump if the di was before the pump or after it?

 

[aceman]

Does a DIs resin last longer if you run the water through it slowly? I am thinking of using running water through mini bore to my twin/triple DI set up. My local TDS is 240-310, but I can't use an RO because I live in a flat.
With this kind of set up where the DIs change around; the first one becomes the second one etc how do you guys remember which is the first DI and which the second? Write on it in pencil?

Also, I heard that cleaning to a TDS of 15 is fine. I also heard it depends on the area not just the TDS level. This affects what actually is in the total dissolved solids (TDS) I live in Poole/Bournemouth anyone know if this area is ok to clean at a TDS of 15?

Incidentally how long does your resin last with putting 240-310 TDS through it? You must burn through it pretty quick.

 

[Dave B]

According to wcw resin calculator at 310 ppm you shouldnget 2258 litres from 1 bag

Only a rough calculator but it seems a lot of resin use to be di only

Resin Calculator

 

[slippy]

Incidentally how long does your resin last with putting 240-310 TDS through it? You must burn through it pretty quick.

Not sure to be honest. But what else can I do. I don't think an RO would work with my set up! I live in a flat and run a hosepipe from kitchen to barrels in car (work part time). I take my twin DI on sack trolley from garage down to outside car boot at night and plug in hosepipe then into barrels. I fill up pretty quickly then take trolley back to garage. I only use about 175 litres a week.

 

[Dave B]

175l a week is 13 weeks out of a bag

175 a week or a day?

 

[steve garwood]

Hi Dave yes there is a difference in grades in resin. It is all about moisture content capacity etc..
Tulsion MB-115 at specification is a high grade resin with high yield. The difference with a strong base it can take high ppm and give you 000ppm but weak base will not give that output and will come out around 003 ppm.

Got any deals going? I need to order some soon