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Boiler not firing up

  • Thread starter Stayclearwindowcleaning
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Stayclearwindowcleaning

Just fitted my boiler and it will not fire up I've put 2 new lots of batteries in and there is a gas supply good flow rate on the water just will not fire up making a clicking noise. What could it be thanks

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Not sure if this is helpful but the clicking is the ignition system trying to light the gas. The only time mine clicks without firing up is if I forget to turn the gas on at the regulator before turning on the water pump. If your regulator is turned on and it won't light when it's clicking, then it sounds like you may have a problem with your unit. Did it come with a trouble shooting guide?

 
Not sure if this is helpful but the clicking is the ignition system trying to light the gas. The only time mine clicks without firing up is if I forget to turn the gas on at the regulator before turning on the water pump. If your regulator is turned on and it won't light when it's clicking, then it sounds like you may have a problem with your unit. Did it come with a trouble shooting guide?
i got the unit off eBay new the instructions or not up to much. I've watched the same unit firing up on YouTube mine is doing exactly the same it's a bout one seconds of clicking then firing up but not on my unit
 
i got the unit off eBay new the instructions or not up to much. I've watched the same unit firing up on YouTube mine is doing exactly the same it's a bout one seconds of clicking then firing up but not on my unit
Marko067 is right. It's likely a gas supply problem.

Did you get batteries in the packaging with it?

I always change them for better quality as it fires up more rapidly and you can hear the clicking is much faster.

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Marko067 is right. It's likely a gas supply problem.Did you get batteries in the packaging with it?

I always change them for better quality as it fires up more rapidly and you can hear the clicking is much faster.

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app
I think the Company is sending dodgy ones out. Been speaking to a man on Facebook Window page and he has had two units sent out from the same company both faulty

 
Still not working? Ah that's a bugger hey? You having another tinker tomorrow to try and get it fired up or do you think it's a faulty one?

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Going to have 1 last look tomorrow. A never man has had 2 heaters sent out both have the same problem as mine. cant be much to it just a pain in the a**

 
Someone had a similar situation on the other forum;

Reply was:

The digi display will only come on when the heater fires up and stays on.

 


Yes the switch for the ignition is on the bottom. Can't remember at the mo which way it is to turn on but you will soon know the right way as when the water flow is turned on the ignition will start clicking to fire the heater up.


 


If it clicks and does not fire up make sure the gas is turned on, the water flow dial is turned all the way to minimum and the flow of water on the pump is set high enough to fire it up. You will soon know when it fires up as will hear it, will stop clicking and the digi display will turn on.


Is there gas coming through the pipe from the regulator?

What gas have you got?

What gas cylinder have you got? It is propane isn't it? Butane doesn't work in freezing conditions apparently.

Did you order an LPG heater or did you order a natural gas one or did they supply a natural gas one?

If you haven't got heating in your van please got out and drain the boiler down. If the water freezes inside it will destroy the brass? manifold.

There a drain plug that needs to be removed. Its not easy to get to.

.

 
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Got the heater to work. Took the Front panel off and there was two connections not connected. 2 other things can I use the univalve with hot as when I shut the water off using that univalve the temperature keep creeping up on the heater getting very hot and then started to blow my connections.

 
Got the heater to work. Took the Front panel off and there was two connections not connected. 2 other things can I use the univalve with hot as when I shut the water off using that univalve the temperature keep creeping up on the heater getting very hot and then started to blow my connections.
You need some heavy duty hose.

Some of the guys use those flexible hoses with steel braiding around the outside. 1/2" radiator hose also works from the heater to the van ports and then from the van ports to the hose reel.

You need to reduce the calibration of your controller to a lower cutoff pressure. Hot water has a lower viscosity than cold water. Its more runny so the pump will work less to push the water down the hose.

The hose also heats up and becomes soft and expands more. So the pressure build-up takes longer to switch off. You will be able to knock the speed off of your flow as well.

Microbore hose the Gardiners sell seems to be OK with water temps of up to 60 degrees Alex says. My minibore hose was rubbish.

The local windie who used hot set the boiler at a max of 40 degrees, usually a lot cooler.

.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
You need some heavy duty hose.
Some of the guys use those flexible hoses with steel braiding around the outside. 1/2" radiator hose also works. from the heater to the van ports and then from the van ports to the hose reel.

You need to reduce the calibration of your controller to a lower cutoff pressure. Hot water has a lower viscosity than cold water. Its more runny so the pump will work less to push the water down the hose.

The hose also heats up and becomes soft and expands more. So the pressure build-up takes longer to switch off. You will be able to knock the speed off of your flow as well.

Microbore hose the Gardiners sell seems to be OK with water temps of up to 60 degrees Alex says. My minibore hose was rubbish.

The local windie who used hot set the boiler at a max of 40 degrees, usually a lot cooler.

.
Thanks spruce when I shut the water Off I was watching the boilers temperature and it just keep going up and up and up And then it kept bursting the pipe. Will invest in some better Hose thanks

 
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