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Wiring in pump controller

there is a way...but dad may get angry....as it may go....wrong..

if his is identical to yours remove your diode d6 and swap with his...if thats the faulty part your controller will spring to life and your dads will be dead...and then take the diode to any maplin store and they will get you a replacement...

but ...using a soldering iron on printed circuit is quite a skill...you have to be very fast...i think you could probably take it to any computer repair shop and they may offer to do it but....£25 is probably the going rate...

keep us informed as ...i am sure someone else will be helped in the future by this post...

 
My dads controller is the exact same, He had 2 kits both consisting of the exact same items. He have gave me the 2nd kit (His spare) so i can switch to WFP. It was all working, I swapped the damn pump via live transfer (Daft thing to of done now) and for now its gone tits up.

I am going to just remove his unit in the morning and take a look and see if anything looks different. I cant risk removing any parts from his as I don't want to mess it up as most of his work is WFP.

I will also wait and see if I get a reply on how much it is to get it repaired, If its around £25 I may aswell just send it off and get it done, If it's much more than that I will have to attempt it myself if I am able to find the faulty part, Or i may just buy a new controller and be done with it.

 
Sorry , haven't been on in a while to see this but I had the same issue a few weeks ago.... Bought a new diode from Maplin for 54p , soldered it in, job done! ... Give me 5 mins and I'll go look up the diode number for you from the website.

 
yep sometimes you have to gamble.

..i had to get my air bag light off for the mot following government changes and so i set about a...getting it out....and b....posting it off to a firm who said they could do it...but could they...and i think it was £32 to get it done...and then i put it back and....it didnt work ..i really :gush:...but...what i didnt do was clear the existing faults with my ebay plug in fault eraser...once i did that ...it was off and i was very very happy....but it was a gamble that paid off thank god...till the next time...

 
its a 1N5402 diode you need mate, I bought a spare one so I could send it off to you if you want ? either that or this is the link:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1n5402-3a-silicon-rectifier-ql83e

when you put the new one in make sure you fit it the same way round as they only work in one direction and you don't wan to fry the chip on the board.

Be prepared for burn finger tips and a lot of swearing as it took a lot of heat and patience to get the old one off and new one on.

 
its a 1N5402 diode you need mate, I bought a spare one so I could send it off to you if you want ? either that or this is the link:http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1n5402-3a-silicon-rectifier-ql83e

when you put the new one in make sure you fit it the same way round as they only work in one direction and you don't wan to fry the chip on the board.

Be prepared for burn finger tips and a lot of swearing as it took a lot of heat and patience to get the old one off and new one on.
I have to go to town tomorrow to take the wife to hospital, Ill call in there hopefully they will have some in stock.

So its D6 on the front of the circuit board that is the one i need to change then?

 
top man vortexjim.

.yeh but 54p...got to be worth a try..as i said..snip the legs at the highest point and try to scratch them with a matchbox strike paper or fine sandpaper to get a good key ...do the same to the new diode legs and then tin...apply solder first to the new diode and let cool as it will be ready to join the old legs faster and tin the old legs too with a quick heat up and apply solder and then finally a quick solder together...speed being the operative word...cant wait to hear if it works...good luck../emoticons/biggrin.png

the pic does look like the d6 part...take the board into maplin as i am sure they will be happy to tell you...the band you see on the diode being its value...

 
yeah , thats the one... they come with long legs either end of the diode . Once you've got the old one out if you have a very very small drill bit roughly the size if the new legs its worth running it very carefully through the ports on the board just to make it easier to instal the new one and you can then trim the excess legs off once its soldered in place.

If you don't have a drill small enough just solder it into the right position and carefully bend it down so that the board and box go back together nicely and it'll still work fine... just depends how neat you want to be with it.

 
or do as cheap said.... but there really isn't that much room to snip at them... you'll sort it though! /emoticons/wink.png

 
That's a great help... So long as my local store has them in stock (Ill grab a couple) Ill be cracking on with the late tomorrow afternoon....

Hopefully this is what the problem is, As the controller powers up and you can increase/decrease the flow rate on the controller, But it just has no effect with the pump.

Switch the controller off and the pump just keeps going lol.

 
ohhh right , sorry Ive been skim reading on my phone:confused:... , that may not sort your problem , ...

if the controller powers up but has no effect then that would suggest something completely different. you diode is working!...

 
the links that Smurf sent you to the user guide will help you... You have the pump wired the correct way for sure... however if you can set it on that model , mess about with the dead end detection setting as this has caused me issues and i'm still not happy with the way mine is set.

mine is analogue rather than digital , but if you get no joy after messing with the dead end settings I would assume that the chip on the board is faulty... sorry for skim reading and leading you astray

 
My opinion.

From what I understand, a diode is fitted to only allow current to travel through a circuit one way. I would think that the reason why it has blown was that you got the polarity of the battery terminals mixed up.

A multimeter or an ohmmeter are apparently the way to test if a diode is working or blown, however using this way of testing isn't guaranteed to be accurate, so it has been suggested that the best way is to replace the diode with a new one is the best way.

I came across a chap in France who fixes Webasto diesel water heater circuit boards on a Rover car forum. A fault could be with any of 3 different components, so he just replaces all three. This is a standard electronics practice I understand.

For 54p I would do this.

Yes, you could send the controller away for repair, but the controller is also an old model so doesn't have some of the refinements the new ones do.

If I were you I would buy a diode and also buy a drill bit and carefully drill the board out as was suggested by another poster. (Maplins also sell small diamt drill bits; or they did.)

If this doesn't work, then I would buy a new controller TBH.

 
Bit of an update....

Spruce, The controller was wired up in the correct order, As it was still connected to the battery via live transfer. So I was only left with the 2 wires that go to the pump.

However, It appears to be that instead of turning up the pump flow, I was turning up the CAL. How I did this I don't know as its not the first time I have used this controller, And its obviously gone past a certain point and something has gone bang.

As the controller is 4 years old and looking at £30 plus Vat and postage for spring to look at it aswell as having to wait upto 10 days without a controller I might just buy a new one.

I see a spring one with a split charger for £95 on eBay so may just buy that instead, And send this one away to see if it can be fixed and keep it as a spare.

 
Bit of an update....Spruce, The controller was wired up in the correct order, As it was still connected to the battery via live transfer. So I was only left with the 2 wires that go to the pump.

However, It appears to be that instead of turning up the pump flow, I was turning up the CAL. How I did this I don't know as its not the first time I have used this controller, And its obviously gone past a certain point and something has gone bang.

As the controller is 4 years old and looking at £30 plus Vat and postage for spring to look at it aswell as having to wait upto 10 days without a controller I might just buy a new one.

I see a spring one with a split charger for £95 on eBay so may just buy that instead, And send this one away to see if it can be fixed and keep it as a spare.
Personally I think this makes sense. I would still have a go at fixing your old one with a replacement diode though. But I'm a DIY sucker.

 
I have bought the spring one now with the split charge relay.

Wont be here until Thursday though, Spring seems to think its either the pump driver has gone or possibly the FETS.

Neither of them makes any sense to me LOL.

 
Just remember to read the fitting instructions or you may blow that one too.

I have bought the spring one now with the split charge relay.Wont be here until Thursday though, Spring seems to think its either the pump driver has gone or possibly the FETS.

Neither of them makes any sense to me LOL.
 
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