best liquidator mod ever

[Dave B]

Such a simple idea but after another ingenious idea from Bob Hatt i have tried this and it stops any slipping of the rubber in liquidator channels and no need to ever crimp a clip or anything else

If you are using a liquidator and hit a dry edge you will have noticed how the rubber likes to try to pull out and leaves a wet patch on the glass

Bob tried it with small bits of paperclip but i have used 1.5mm galvanised gardening wire as it doesn’t rust at all

Used pliers to cut a piece the size of the distance from channel end to the end of the clip

Dip the end of the channel in soapy water to help with inserting it and use the pliers to push it in above the bulge in the rubber that holds it in the channel

The rubber no longer moves unless you pull it by the end to remove it

Solves the other issues of rubber trying to pull out also

View attachment 7539

 

[Dave B]

It works so well i just did it to 6 of my channels

Even makes the temperamental 22" behave itself

20m of 1.5mm galvanised wire is £1 in asda where all the gardening stuff is

I used about 12cm for all 6 so would last a lifetime

 

[Eric Gilliand]

View attachment 7547

It works so well i just did it to 6 of my channelsEven makes the temperamental 22" behave itself

20m of 1.5mm galvanised wire is £1 in asda where all the gardening stuff is

I used about 12cm for all 6 so would last a lifetime

LOL. You beat me by about 12 hours Dave. Here's my take on it. Small pieces of zip tie ... Small but very very essential mod. Kudos to Bob of course but also to Herman, who demonstrated this idea with zip ties on his widebody channels some years ago...

 

[Den]

Thanks for posting just had a luquidator and a combinator delivered, will do the modification.

Den.

 

[rugbywolf]

Such a simple idea but after another ingenious idea from Bob Hatt i have tried this and it stops any slipping of the rubber in wagtail channels and no need to ever crimp a clip or anything elseIf you are using a liquidator and hit a dry edge you will have noticed how the rubber likes to try to pull out and leaves a wet patch on the glass

Bob tried it with small bits of paperclip but i have used 1.5mm galvanised gardening wire as it doesn’t rust at all

Used pliers to cut a piece the size of the distance from channel end to the end of the clip

Dip the end of the channel in soapy water to help with inserting it and use the pliers to push it in above the bulge in the rubber that holds it in the channel

The rubber no longer moves unless you pull it by the end to remove it

Solves the other issues of rubber trying to pull out also

View attachment 10708

Yeah, you get this dragging with sunny weather like we're having at the moment, I'll try it with nylon ties.

 

[Dave B]

It will still try to drag if not wet/soapy enough but it helps a whole load and the rubber doesn't pull

 

[Eric Gilliand]

It will still try to drag if not wet/soapy enough but it helps a whole load and the rubber doesn't pull

This is the final piece of the puzzle Davey. 25 degree handle and now this tiny bit of retention for the rubber. Did a couple of hours on hot commercial glass today. More accurate, very smooth on the turn. Lazy turn scallops non existent... 14 flipper on pole, 18 and 22 on fixed handle ...all performed stunningly. Happy chap...

 

[Den]

Done this mod today with cable ties works spot on.

Den.

 

[Dave B]

One of my older channels was still loose even with the wire in the ends

Just dipped the tips of the clips in boiling water and squeezed the bottom of the clips in a touch

Put the wire in the ends after and not moving anywhere

I can use it like a normal standard squeegee at high speed without any lines or issues

 

[keefo]

Didn't think you got lines Davey![emoji6]

Even Bob admits he gets lines with the liquidator and thinks this stops them. Can you or Eric please explain how it stops lines appearing from the tip of the rubber. I only get them now and then these days, but very annoying when it happens, like today. It was my last job of the day though and at 4.10pm the sun was setting........so there you go, everything could be seen.

Only having a laugh with my opening line Davey.

Cheers

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[Dave B]

I think the lines are created when the rubber slightly pulls forward out of the channel a touch

With the wire in the ends it does the same job as crimping the ends but better and doesn't let the rubber move at all

It is definitely a lot more responsive and can use it a lot quicker

 

[Eric Gilliand]

Agreed the small amount of retention gives real confidence on the turns. Keefo the other thing I've noted over here in NZ is the commercial and domestic alu Windows with rubber seals? If you wet the glass but miss the seals (in short seals are dry). Then the blade runs down the seal over drying the tip of the blade then as you run across the glass there is a small amount of drag causing uneven pressure on the glass. Result...lines every now and again. I ensure that I soap glass and seals which tends to minimise this issue. I actually had a mare of a time yesterday because I started one commercial contract early avo and the glass was hot, winter sun is almost here (lower in the sky) and keeping the glass wet long enough to blade efficiently was teeth gritting...but...it is what it is.

 

[Den]

Do you think the combinator one pass configuration would be better is the high temperatures Eric.

 

[Eric Gilliand]

I've always believed that Willies Precision Glide (forget the godawful clips, just his slip pad) would be the ideal tool used in combination with a scrubber. Soak glass with scrubber, blade with PG. the wet pad continues to add slip as the glass is drying. I actually tried a PG for the first time a couple of weeks ago. It actually works really well as a one pass on cleanish glass. It also had his latest rubber in it as well and the slip on at appears to have improved as well.

 

[Den]

I have been learning with the combinator and done the paulpicking1 modification to the applicator bar but not the sleeve I have found that by not cutting the sleeve down It Lubricates right up to the frames also the sleeve seems to hold a fair bit of water considering that it's only half the size/weight I also lubricate the sleeve with liquid that give good slip this works for me taking into account I'm only a newbie with minimal experience compared to you guys.

 

[keefo]

Cheers Davey and Eric.....for some reason Tapatalk won't allow me to like comment at present, a little glitch.

That's interesting then Erin about the seals, I'll also but some cable ties like you've tried out. I'm guessing we'll have to do this with the excelerator too, unless it's one of the things Bob is working on before the release.

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[Eric Gilliand]

Cheers Davey and Eric.....for some reason Tapatalk won't allow me to like comment at present, a little glitch.That's interesting then Erin about the seals, I'll also but some cable ties like you've tried out. I'm guessing we'll have to do this with the excelerator too, unless it's one of the things Bob is working on before the release.

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When you do it Keefo use the smallest you can. You only want enough tension to secure the rubber. Eyeball the clip from the bottom and make sure it isn't distorted. That's why I went to the small zip in the first place. I found using bits of paperclip on the older clips was changing the shape of the end clip. Obviously this isn't happening with the new clips as they have been beefed up and are using a harder plastic.

 

[keefo]

When you do it Keefo use the smallest you can. You only want enough tension to secure the rubber. Eyeball the clip from the bottom and make sure it isn't distorted. That's why I went to the small zip in the first place. I found using bits of paperclip on the older clips was changing the shape of the end clip. Obviously this isn't happening with the new clips as they have been beefed up and are using a harder plastic.

So the smallest width and thickness ties I can find and cut to a cm or two in length. When you say it's not happening in the new clips, isn't it the new clips that Bob has done it with in the video or are you meaning it's just not distorting the new excelerator clips when you have to still wedge something in. I wondered if this was an issue he was ironing out before the release so we didn't have to jam something in........but then I guess we couldn't have different brands of rubbers in.

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[Eric Gilliand]

So the smallest width and thickness ties I can find and cut to a cm or two in length. When you say it's not happening in the new clips, isn't it the new clips that Bob has done it with in the video or are you meaning it's just not distorting the new excelerator clips when you have to still wedge something in. I wondered if this was an issue he was ironing out before the release so we didn't have to jam something in........but then I guess we couldn't have different brands of rubbers in.
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Yes smallest you can find. New clips are optimised for Moerman rubber so there is no issue. If using different rubber this is the way to ensure integrity at end clips. Bob is doing it with all rubber for peace of mind.

 

[keefo]

The Moerman rubber i thought was one of the narrowest brands, so if the new clips work with them, then hopefully be OK with the others. Sometimes the razr red are a bugger to get through the clips, even after soaping. I can't wait for this new one. Have you heard of anyone this part of the world's who will be selling them? I wonder if Peter will stock them at Window cleaning world will.

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[Eric Gilliand]

I emailed Moerman and asked them that very question. They came back and said Oates Australia are their business associates for Australia NZ. I emailed Oates (who have liquidator on their site now) and asked them who their dealers were who would be stocking Moerman for Australia and NZ....so far...silence. I would doubt that Peter would stock it. Too contentious with brother Willie being Wagtail i would think. I'll probably still just buy mine through Racenstein In the US. I find their prices are really competitive and they don't charge extortionate freight.