Newbie advice on resin & filters.

[Wayne33]

Hi Guys

Im new to the forum so please be gentle lol.

I havent started the business yet and im new to WFP and havent done traditional.View attachment 8771

I joined a few weeks ago and have been reading lots of the advice on here as ive been getting

water spots left at the bottom of my own windows as thats what ive been practising on.

I tried different techniques from here and watching YouTube videos but i was still being left with

spots at the bottom of the windows so i bought a TDS pen and my water reading is 071 PPM.

Ive bought a van with a PureFreedom set up already installed so ive emailed them and asked them

what i need to change and they have said " Pre filters - membrane and resisn " need to be changed.

Ive emailed the guy i bought the van from to find out when everything was last changed but he is yet to

get back to me.

I was just wondering if anyone could advise me on if i really need to buy all of the above or are they

just trying to sell me all of it?.

Ive attached a photo of my set up if that helps.

thanks in advance.

Regards

Wayne

 

[Dyein2clean]

Always best to start off with new filters. If you can't afford them yet change the resin in your di vessel that will help a lot. My filters get me down to 00.2 and then once threw the di vessel brings it down to 000 that's what you need to get perfect clean windows

 

[David K]

Personally I would start in this order : resin , pre filters , RO membrane.

Maybe even change both resin and pre filters at the same time , as the are pretty inexpensive anyway. I really don't think your RO membrane is wasted ,it takes a lot of beating before it rolls over and die .

So go buy a sediment filter , a carbon filter , and some good resin ,virgin style .

Doug at Daqua.com got some fair deals. I buy from him. Just know what inch size these filters are before order ! :thumbsup:

 

[Wayne33]

Always best to start off with new filters. If you can't afford them yet change the resin in your di vessel that will help a lot. My filters get me down to 00.2 and then once threw the di vessel brings it down to 000 that's what you need to get perfect clean windows

Thanks for your help.

 

[Wayne33]

Personally I would start in this order : resin , pre filters , RO membrane.Maybe even change both resin and pre filters at the same time , as the are pretty inexpensive anyway. I really don't think your RO membrane is wasted ,it takes a lot of beating before it rolls over and die .

So go buy a sediment filter , a carbon filter , and some good resin ,virgin style .

Doug at Daqua.com got some fair deals. I buy from him. Just know what inch size these filters are before order ! :thumbsup:

Hi

Thanks for your help. Ive order 7 ltrs of resin and the pre filter for now, they tried to say i was going to damage the membrane

if i didn't buy one but i assume they're trying to get me to buy the most expensive item as well.

Regards

 

[Dave B]

If the membrane os ok then changing pre filters will protect it and it will be fine

You won't know until you have it running if the membrane is ok or not

Basically you want the tds as low as possible before the di or you will eat through it

 

[OutlaneWC]

Where do you live Wayne maybe someone off here could bob round and help you out..also I'm guessing you've bought all this and u don't have work yet?

 

[AGlassAct]

Hi Wayne, I would ask pure freedom for a user manual if you don't already have one. You need to fully understand how your system works otherwise you will f up your membrane. I notice you have two di polishing filters so assume you haven't ordered enough for both? Personally with the TDS at +70 I would be testing the water TDS before and after the RO membrane to work out your rejection rate. I would suggest your RO membrane needs replacing going on personal experience, you will be wasting a lot of resin to polish off the higher TDS. What's your tap TDS? Depending on your membrane you should be getting a sub 20 TDS Reading post RO, especially with the booster pump you have strapped to it.

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

 

[peter rogers]

David in what world wud u have a di before the pre filters and membrane ? It defeats the purpose of the membrane

 

[Dave B]

David in what world wud u have a di before the pre filters and membrane ? It defeats the purpose of the membrane

He was saying what order to replace stuff to get the tds down not what order for it to be connected

 

[spruce]

Don't expect an answer back @Wayne33 , as the previous owner will be worried you will be asking for a refund, especially if he said they had recently been replaced.

I know I keep hammering on about this but the first question to ask is what your pure to waste ratio is when you are producing water. Ideally you should have 1 liter of waste to 1 liter of pure, but you may find the sweet spot is 1.5 liters of waste to 1 liter of pure. You adjust the waste flow by opening or closing the red handled gate valve on the r/o at the end closest to the van's floor.

Once you've got that sorted then you need to understand what the efficiency of your r/o is running at. A good membrane will run at around 98% which means it will remove 98% of the minerals in the water allowing 2% past. This 2% is what your resin 'polishes' off.

Changing prefilters will not make much difference to your product (pure) water quality. The resin will but as has been stated, the resin won't last long.

If your water water is 200ppm and your product water is 4, then divide 4 by 200. You will get the quality of your water as 0.02. This means that the 4ppm is 2% of the minerals in your tap water, so the membrane is removing 98% of the minerals or impurities.

It is considered that the cutoff point to change an r/o membrane is when it reaches a 94% or slightly lower % efficiency. So at 94% (tap water 200ppm) your pure would be 12ppm.

When anyone is buying a second hand r/o unit, you always need to account for having to replace the membrane sooner rather than later.

Please let us know how you are getting on. Nice system by the way.

.

 

[tench0771]

1st thing first test ur tap tds anything under 80tds just use twin di if ur over this change all filters change resin , u need 000 in ur tank like sruce sases lurn ur system u will be soon on track

 

[David K]

Hi
Thanks for your help. Ive order 7 ltrs of resin and the pre filter for now, they tried to say i was going to damage the membrane

if i didn't buy one but i assume they're trying to get me to buy the most expensive item as well.

Regards

Glad to help ! Hope it Works Out for you ! :thumbsup: Agree with Daveyboy , its def a good protection for the membrane to have an updated prefilter , but both are important , and so cheap , i got them on stock in my shed /emoticons/biggrin.png

 

[Wayne33]

If the membrane os ok then changing pre filters will protect it and it will be fineYou won't know until you have it running if the membrane is ok or not

Basically you want the tds as low as possible before the di or you will eat through it

Hi

Thanks for the help.

Wayne

 

[Wayne33]

Hi Wayne, I would ask pure freedom for a user manual if you don't already have one. You need to fully understand how your system works otherwise you will f up your membrane. I notice you have two di polishing filters so assume you haven't ordered enough for both? Personally with the TDS at +70 I would be testing the water TDS before and after the RO membrane to work out your rejection rate. I would suggest your RO membrane needs replacing going on personal experience, you will be wasting a lot of resin to polish off the higher TDS. What's your tap TDS? Depending on your membrane you should be getting a sub 20 TDS Reading post RO, especially with the booster pump you have strapped to it.

Sent using the Window Cleaning Forums mobile app

Hi

Thanks for the advice. do you think i may not have enough resin?. I emailed a pic of my system to Purefreedom and the guy told me 7 ltrs?.

I did mean to ask someone about this as the guy i bought the system from told me the bottle on the left was never to be touched lol?.

My PPM is 071 at the moment and over 240 from my tap. I live in Bristol and its a very hard water area i think.

Regards

Wayne

 

[Wayne33]

Always best to start off with new filters. If you can't afford them yet change the resin in your di vessel that will help a lot. My filters get me down to 00.2 and then once threw the di vessel brings it down to 000 that's what you need to get perfect clean windows

Thanks for your help.

Wayne

 

[Wayne33]

Where do you live Wayne maybe someone off here could bob round and help you out..also I'm guessing you've bought all this and u don't have work yet?

Hi

Im based in Bristol. That would be fantastic if theres anybody close. I could also easily come to them with the van?.

Yes i bought the van about a month ago and im just practicing, learning as much as i can. Ive had my flyers done

waiting for my hoodies to be made up etc. I split with my partner about 7 months ago and im trying to start something to be my own

boss so i can have a bit more flexibility to see my daughter. Thanks for your input.

Regards

Wayne

 

[Wayne33]

Don't expect an answer back @Wayne33 , as the previous owner will be worried you will be asking for a refund, especially if he said they had recently been replaced.
I know I keep hammering on about this but the first question to ask is what your pure to waste ratio is when you are producing water. Ideally you should have 1 liter of waste to 1 liter of pure, but you may find the sweet spot is 1.5 liters of waste to 1 liter of pure. You adjust the waste flow by opening or closing the red handled gate valve on the r/o at the end closest to the van's floor.

Once you've got that sorted then you need to understand what the efficiency of your r/o is running at. A good membrane will run at around 98% which means it will remove 98% of the minerals in the water allowing 2% past. This 2% is what your resin 'polishes' off.

Changing prefilters will not make much difference to your product (pure) water quality. The resin will but as has been stated, the resin won't last long.

If your water water is 200ppm and your product water is 4, then divide 4 by 200. You will get the quality of your water as 0.02. This means that the 4ppm is 2% of the minerals in your tap water, so the membrane is removing 98% of the minerals or impurities.

It is considered that the cutoff point to change an r/o membrane is when it reaches a 94% or slightly lower % efficiency. So at 94% (tap water 200ppm) your pure would be 12ppm.

When anyone is buying a second hand r/o unit, you always need to account for having to replace the membrane sooner rather than later.

Please let us know how you are getting on. Nice system by the way.

.

Hi

Thank you for your response. Very detailed, ill have to have a couple more coffees and take it in lol.

I do know my PPM from the van is 071 PPM. I was getting water spots left at the bottom of my windows

at home when practising. I read a lot of 1st clean threads and tried different techniques but i was still getting

the spots so i tested the water and im hoping its because the water isnt totally pure. Fingers crossed lol.

My water from the tap is over 240 PPM. Based in Bristol.

Regards

Wayne

 

[Wayne33]

1st thing first test ur tap tds anything under 80tds just use twin di if ur over this change all filters change resin , u need 000 in ur tank like sruce sases lurn ur system u will be soon on track

Hi

Thanks for your help, my tap water is over 240 PPM, based in Bristol which is a very hard water area i think.

Regards

Wayne

 

[spruce]

In its current state its only removing 61% of the minerals/salts. If your pure to waste ratio is correct then you need to replace the membrane as its well shot. Your system has a booster pump so an hf4 membrane will be ok.

The system looks very new so I'm surprised that its so bad. Your prefilters are 20" btw.

 

[Wayne33]

In its current state its only removing 61% of the minerals/salts. If your pure to waste ratio is correct then you need to replace the membrane as its well shot. Your system has a booster pump so an hf4 membrane will be ok.
The system looks very new so I'm surprised that its so bad. Your prefilters are 20" btw.

Hi

Thanks for your help. I have to learn about this pure to waste ratio as the guy didnt really explain that to me. He just said connect the hose to the

filling port and turn the pump up to 99 and connect the waste hose to the waste port but i didnt have any water coming out of the waste pipe when

i filled her up a bit the other day. Ive kinda just assumed that the water in Ipswich where bought the van was a lot softer than in Bristol and thats why

mine is coming out at 071 PPM. I cleaned the guys windows at his house to have a demonstration and they dried fine. At my house the system is

leaving spots at the bottom of the windows. The system is 7 years old he told me.

Regards

Wayne