Filters.

[bins2010]

Where is the best place to buy pre-filters?

I've looked online but don't want to buy rubbish ones.

Thanks

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[spruce]

I suggest you use the main suppliers, Gardiners, Daqua, etc.

I always use Fibedyne carbon block (second filter) for chlorine removal as they have a long service life.

If your water is clear of sediment, then you only need one fiberdyne carbon block as that also acts as a sediment filter. How as ours isn't free of sediment, we use a sediment filter and then a fiberdyne c/b.

For window cleaning you don't need a third prefilter such as a GAC filter.

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[Dave B]

@spruce i have a collins 450gpd and it has sediment, carbon, carbon block

Are you saying i don't need all 3?

The filters i have come in packs of all 3

 

[spruce]

@spruce i have a collins 450gpd and it has sediment, carbon, carbon blockAre you saying i don't need all 3?

The filters i have come in packs of all 3

They come in packs of three as they will also be used for other uses such as drinking water in the home to make it more palatable, aquatics, etc. They don't even mention a setup for window cleaners.

5 micron rated sediment filter

This is effective in removing dirt,rust and sand particles

Carbon block filter,

Removes

gardia,cryptosporidiumcysts,pesticides,chlorine,Mtbe,trihalomethanes,pesticides,herbicides,benzene,randon, volatile organic chemicals

 

 


Gac Carbon filter,

Removes

MtBE, Trihalomethanes, Pesticides, Herbicides, Benzene, Radon, and countless Volatile Organic Chemicals.

My first question is why you need a third GAC filter to remove the same substances the carbon block does? BTW the GAC filter (Granulated carbon) also removes chlorine as I used that filter for years without problems.

The first r/o I had was a 225GPD r/o similar to the 3 membrane units Collins water sells. It was supplied by a company that only sell window cleaning equipment.The first filter was a sediment filter, the second was a carbon block filter and the third housing was a resin canister for polishing off the remaining tds after the membranes.

I have only ever used 2 filters. Alex Gardiner is the one who also suggests that if your water hasn't got sediment then just a single fiberdyne carbon block is all you need.

The old Merlin and its replacement PRF r/o's only use a carbon block as the sediment prefilter - the other 2 housings are for r/o membranes. If a Merlin user, like a windie around the corner, has a poor quality of water like us, then its easy to fit an inline sediment filter to protect the carbon block from clogging up, which he has done.

 

[Dave B]

Interesting to know

I don't know what make my carbon block is as it is in a plain box of 3 filters

I got 5 of these boxes off a mate when i bought the ro off him

I always wondered why 3 filters as when you see 40/40 setups they only have 2

I am trying to save space to fit it all under the kitchen sink so it is winter proof my water butts (soon to be an ibc) is just the other side of the wall where my sink is and so is the drain so i can use my mates sds drill and run it through the wall from the kitchen

 

[Dave B]

@spruce how would i know about sediment?

My sediment filter only slightly changed colour over 2.5 months and when i changed it there was no bits in the canister

 

[spruce]

@spruce how would i know about sediment?My sediment filter only slightly changed colour over 2.5 months and when i changed it there was no bits in the canister

Then there is every possibility that a single 5 micron fiberdyne carbon block or equivalent is all you need.

If the first filter housing is clear then its easy to see what's happening over time. Mine is also clear and I can see the sediment filter getting redder and redder each time I look at it. When I remove it to replace it, it is slimy and has this red sediment coating on it. You won't see any bits in it unless muck has got into the mains whilst the water board were doing a repair. At times I have replaced that sediment filter every couple of weeks, at other times once a month, and for this first time this last year, only when changing both prefilters at 78700 liters.

I have a pressure gauge on each side of the prefilters. When the filters are new the gauges read the same pressure. When the sediment filter gets clogged up the pressure on the gauge after the prefilters drops. When it drops to a difference of 10psi then I replace the sediment filter only if the c/b isn't due for change. Both pressure gauges will read the same pressure when I have just replaced the sediment filter.

I've chosen that 10 psi drop difference as the time to change sediment filters as this drop doesn't effect the quality of the pure output. If it drops another 5 psi, (in my case 50psi tap pressure to 35psi after the prefilters) then my r/o isn't performing as well as it should and my output tds goes up a point.

My r/o is a 4040 and it does produce water rather fast when compared to my previous r/o. I didn't notice the sediment prefilter getting as bad as this in the days I had my 450GPD r/o.

It probably doesn't mean much as they started relining our water pipes about 5/6 years ago, so this sediment issue has most probably stemmed from this point. However, it not all bad, as our tap water tds was around 250 before they relined the pipes. Now its between 90 and 125. Our water comes from the same place as it always has - Kielder dam.

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[Dave B]

My water is around 280-300 from the tap and the ro produces at 4 usually

I have good pressure here

The pre filter is 50/50 slight red patches and white patches after 2.5 months

I have 4 of each filter left so will keep the sediment one i think but if i can lose the gac i will

 

[spruce]

My water is around 280-300 from the tap and the ro produces at 4 usuallyI have good pressure here

The pre filter is 50/50 slight red patches and white patches after 2.5 months

I have 4 of each filter left so will keep the sediment one i think but if i can lose the gac i will

That's what my 450GPD was doing at a lower pressure of 40 psi with 250ppm tap water. /emoticons/smile.png

You may as well use all your filters up as the GAC is doing no harm. Once they have been used then relook at the situation. Removing a housing won't make much difference with regard to space as the membrane housing are as long as the 3 filter housings underneath.

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