Welcome to the UK Window Cleaning Forums

Starting or own a window cleaning business? We're a network of window cleaners sharing advice, tips & experience. Rounds for sale & more. Join us today!

When to change filters, understanding components, with pictures

WCF

Help Support WCF:

Maund

Well-known member
Messages
166
Location
Anglesey
Wondering on roughly when to change each part, I live in a soft water area of 70tds.

Also, please see the second picture, do I need to clean this little filter out or change it at some point?

The third picture is the waste valve, I'm not sure on whether or not I keep it fully closed, in the middle or fully open. And when I fill the tank up do I leave it fully closed??

View attachment 11404

View attachment 11405

IMG_0041.JPG

 
Wondering on roughly when to change each part, I live in a soft water area of 70tds.

Also, please see the second picture, do I need to clean this little filter out or change it at some point?

The third picture is the waste valve, I'm not sure on whether or not I keep it fully closed, in the middle or fully open. And when I fill the tank up do I leave it fully closed??

View attachment 11404

View attachment 11405

View attachment 11406
.... and they didn't give you any instructions on how to use or maintain your system.

Without seeing a bit more I can't totally help you.

First photo.

If you have a single prefilter housing (it looks like 10") then hopefully they have fitted a carbon block filter which removes chlorine from the water. Chlorine destroys membranes. It can also be used to remove sediment (combination filter doing 2 jobs) but if you have sediment laden water like we do then you may need to get another filter housing.

I would replace the filter in a few months with a Fiberdyne filter from Gardiners. They all have a service life - some are better than others.

Daqua also sell a similar 10" long life filter.

Second photo.

That's your pump strainer. Occasionally we unscrew it (its fitted upside down so the water will run out) and wash it out carefully under a tap cleaning the gauze with an old toothbrush and screw it back again. You need to be careful not to overtighten it. Hopefully you also have an on/off tap at the tank outlet to stop the water pouring out and soaking everything.

Third photo.

The tap with the red handle is the waste gate valve. When you flush your membrane you completely open this tap. When you are processing water you partially close it. With a low tds like you have you could aim at about 1 liter of waste to 1 liter of pure. The waste valve must never be completely closed.

(Some suppliers like Purefreedom actually drill a small 1.5mm hole in the paddle of the valve so if the owner completely shuts it there will still be water going to waste. I have no idea if the supplier you have bought from does the same. Whatever the case you also need some water going to waste as this is what carries the impurities that the membrane has removed during filtering.)

Then you have your di vessel which should be full of resin. No membrane will remove 100% of all the impurities from the water. Passing the pure through the resin in the di vessel will remove or polish off the remaining impurities.

.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back
Top