Wanting first RO filter - how to please!

Discussion in 'Water Fed Pole Cleaning' started by C Rose Cleaning Services, Jul 7, 2016.

Advertisement
  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.
  2. Welcome to the UK Window Cleaning Forums.
    Starting or own a window cleaning business? We're a network of window cleaners sharing advice, tips & experience. Rounds for sale & more. Join us today!

  1. C Rose Cleaning Services

    Member

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2016
    Messages:
    309
    Likes Received:
    103
    So I'm now running almost 100% WFP for my upstairs work - bar flat roofs etc but that means I'm now using about 6L of resin a week with my Unger HiFlo DI filter (1 replacement bag a week - it's giving me about 450-500L of pure water per change)

    I've been browsing online but am a little confused by installing an RO filter at home - obviously will save me £110 a month on resin but I'm confused how it 'works' without a van?... How do you hook it up? Does it have to be plumbed into your main water? I'm only renting so I don't want to start building it up under the sink.

    What I would ideally like (if it's even possible) is to be able to just run an EZ snap or hozelock from my kitchen tap into the RO filter then back out the other end into the DI filter when I need to fill up my barrels and then unplug and put it back in the cupboard when I'm done.

    Guess the burning question is, can I do this?? Or am I stuck just smashing through the Unger bags until I can build up a water butt and plumb it into the mains water?
     
    Advertisement
  2. macca

    macca Member
    Member

    Joined:
    May 3, 2013
    Messages:
    70
    Likes Received:
    16
    Firstly u need to find out the TDS of the tap water, which will then decide, if needed, an RO or just DI.
     
  3. David K

    David K Forum Addict
    Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2015
    Messages:
    823
    Likes Received:
    256
    Thats true !:) Other than that it's pretty simple. Just get an RO . Connect it to a garden hose type fitting. And in the other end another garden hose fitting which plugs in to a DI vessel and from that other end of that DI vessel ( garden too) the hose of pure run in to whatever container you got available.
    I use a RO 4021 low pressure kit from Daqua , and a 11 l DI vessel . It runs forever, only changes the smaller pre-filters once in a while. . DI that type is about 330 pounds, and vessel is 70 I believe. DI comes with fittings and so the DI. You only need some hose . I would definitely do this on an outside location. If anything leaks ( believe me it will) you're screwed ! :confused:
     
  4. spruce

    spruce Grand Master
    Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    2,536
    Likes Received:
    736
    I would imagine your tap water tds is around 300 - 320 so an r/o is the way to go.
     
  5. TommoTrueShineWCS

    TommoTrueShineWCS Active Member
    Member

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2016
    Messages:
    148
    Likes Received:
    33
    C
    dude, your exactly where im at. firstly, run your water through the DI as slow as possible, using the ECO-Flo insert.

    give the DI unit a shake when it starts rising and you'll see a little more life come from each resin bag.

    where am i going next? same questions as you...
    i dont know if/how my rubber tap-to-hose can cope with extra pressure from a pumped RO filter system, but im sure its not as 'free-flow' as what we're doing with the simple yet effective unger DI unit.
    now, im in a typical backward suffolk brick house with a pokey front kitchen and no hose to rear.
    in this situation i can see there are probably a few ways i can increase my water production/obtain steady sources at home. ive been pondering on a few ways... one of them plumbing in a new outlet in the kitchen sink area, another, plumbing in a line from the main water tank in the loft, running the hose out the back, but have to consider winter/freezing etc with each of these being a project in itself, i may as well just get a hosetap plumbed in the back, buy a 1000 litre tank and save myself the time changing bottles/mopping a flooded kitchen floor... as the pressure around here changes so much, just slightly, that its impossible to 'time' a 25 litre bottle-fill.

    collecting rainwater, this seems to be another way to increase water production, so jacking a butt up to the gutter would seems a good idea -probably not before cleaning the roof though... this water reads much lower than tap, and the humble 6L DI unit will run more water before expiring.

    im going to be doing this in steps, but if you have the cash to outlay, then i would suggest going straight in for your desired setup.

    my first step is to get a big tank in the garden and run a hose from DI out into the 'garden tank' probably will have to hook the line up out of the way of the kids etc, but for a few weeks only, then i will be begin building an RO rig to be housed in a small shed, next to the tank and ready for its plumbed water source. hopefully i will get the thing done quite cheap, but still effective.

    my tap water comes 300-310ppm
     
  6. Marko067

    Marko067 Well-Known Member
    Member

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2016
    Messages:
    556
    Likes Received:
    186
    An RO system won't produce water as fast as just running it through DI resin so you need a method of storing your water. You then draw your pure water from wherever you've stored it when you need it.
    Water butts work for many of us. These can be linked together to increase storage volume. I use a 400 ltr upright tank and have built a small cabin around it to shelter it from the weather and sunlight as you don't want your water turning green. This cabin also houses My RO, a 60w space heater for those sub zero days in winter, my trolley, charger and an l5 LPG heater for when I need it to heat my water in the winter. The RO is plumbed in with JG fittings which makes maintenance nice and quick. I can whip the RO out and have it on the garden table in less than a minute. The RO is plumbed into a garden tap with a short length of garden hose which can be removed when not in use. This too is helpful in winter as when not running the hose connecting the tap to the RO can freeze overnight. It doesn't normally freeze however, if it is running.
     
  7. spruce

    spruce Grand Master
    Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    2,536
    Likes Received:
    736
    Setting up a reverse osmosis system looks complicated, sounds complicated but isn't complicated.

    I hope Doug from Daqua doesn't mind me pinching a picture from his website.

    rosystem2.jpg

    All r/o systems work on the same basic principle. On this illustration the hose from the tap is connected onto the Hozelok coupling on the first blue prefilter. The first prefilter is a sediment prefilter and removes any sediment in the water.

    The second prefilter is a carbon block filter and it removes chlorine from the water. Chlorine has to be removed as it eats membranes away.

    Dechlorinated water then leaves the carbon block prefilter and goes into the reverse osmosis part of the process where the dissolved solids in the water are filtered out under pressure.

    On the other end of the housing is 2 outlets. The one with the red gate valve is the waste (which must never be fully closed) and the other is the pure outlet (the outlet is in the end of the housing and looks like a nipple sticking out on Doug's photo.)

    Opening the waste tap fully is done when you want to flush the membrane. It is then closed until you get a pure to reject ratio of between 50 to 50 and 60 to 40 (waste to pure).
    The pure goes off to a di vessel to be polished off before going to your storage tank. We use an IBC tank and a transfer pump when we fill the van.

    -
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
    • List
  8. David K

    David K Forum Addict
    Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2015
    Messages:
    823
    Likes Received:
    256
    Of course I meant RO is 330 pounds .
     
  9. David K

    David K Forum Addict
    Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2015
    Messages:
    823
    Likes Received:
    256
    That's a good unit ! Totally happy with mine ! Is yours a 4040 or 4021 ?
     
  10. spruce

    spruce Grand Master
    Member

    Joined:
    Jun 4, 2012
    Messages:
    2,536
    Likes Received:
    736
    We have a 4040.

    Originally I started with a 225GPD r/o and upgraded it to a 450GPD when I replaced the membranes. The 450GPD served the 2 of us of nearly 5 years with a little planning. We then added my son in law part time and the 450GPD couldn't keep up.

    It was only when I bought the 4040 that I realised how 'rationing' water had stifled our business. Even with a 4040 we had to stagger fill up times. I would fill my van in the evening, son would fill his van in the morning and son in law would fill his van at around lunch time. Sometimes SIL wanted to fill his van in the morning which created a bit of an issue.

    As a single operator a 450GPD will do fine but you need to have a big storage tank as processing water is very slow, especially during the winter months when the tap water is much colder. You also need some form of auto switch off so the r/o will stop when the tank's full.

    As a single operator the smallest r/o I would buy now is a 4021 which is 'half' the size of the 4040, but I would recommend a 4040. I had considered a 4021 knowing that I could upgrade it later by adding another housing and membrane. How, the expense would come when membranes needed to be replaced as a single 4021 membrane is not half the price of a 4040 membrane.
    My view now is to buy a 4040. If you don't have water you can't work as water is one of the core components with wfp window cleaning.

    -
     
    • Informative Informative x 1
    • List
Advertisement