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Water purification help

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Jimmybob2614

Active member
Messages
44
Location
Norfolk
Hey guys, I worked trad for 18 months and have switched to WFP 2 months ago (much better)!

Anyway, I live in Norfolk and my water PPM is around 500. 

I have a 4040RO with booster and a DI set up to make my water, going through a charcoal filter and a sediment filter first.

I'm after some advice as some of the filters may need replacing and I'd like some specific advice (I've spent lots of time searching around).

So I got the equipment second hand and this is what I'd like help with

1. The resin is a brand I've not heard of so will be swapping to Tulsion when what I have is all gone.

2. The RO is a 4040 with a booster, it's coming out of the RO at 21PPM without the pump and 14PPM with the pump on, now, taking into account the electricity cost for running the booster would you say its more cost efficient to use it without the booster and use resin a little more often?

3. Which RO membrane is best, is there one specific for running a 4040 without a booster pump for instance 

4. With water of 500PPM going in is 14PPM a candidate for replacement?

5.. As the pre filters are so cheap is it worth replacing them each time I change resin?

6. I have a 6L under DI vessel, is it OK to use 5L of resin in it to get 5 goes out of it each lasting a little less, or does using less than full resin have any side effects other than running out quicker on a per L basis?

Thank you for any help, James 

 
Hello Norfolk neighbour.

First you need to change that 6ltr resin vessle for a decent sized one 23ltr minimum id say.

I live in north norfolk with a 380ppm tds reading, my 450gpd system brings it down to 15/20ppm and then the resin unit brings it down to zero.

I change the resin when it gets to 004 normally about 4months between chamges but im producing 4-5 thousand ltrs a week.

My prefilters every 12 months.

And yes run the booster all the time, the electric it uses is minimal.

Run the system 2hrs at a time and off for 1/2hr between running to give the booster chance to cool down.

Flush the system once a week for 15minutes 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello Norfolk neighbour.

First you need to change that 6ltr resin vessle for a decent sized one 23ltr minimum id say.

I live in north norfolk with a 380ppm tds reading, my 450gpd system brings it down to 15/20ppm and then the resin unit brings it down to zero.

I change the resin when it gets to 004 normally about 4months between chamges but im producing 4-5 thousand ltrs a week.

My prefilters every 12 months.
Thanks, what's 450gpd? 

What's the benefit of a bigger resin vessel apart from less time before changes? 

My resin has been in 6 weeks and still getting 000, I use about 2000L a week.

North Norfolk you say, you're not the person I saw about 2 or 3 months ago doing a gutter and fascia job in Caister are you? As I remember him saying he was North Norfolk based 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hey guys, I worked trad for 18 months and have switched to WFP 2 months ago (much better)!

Anyway, I live in Norfolk and my water PPM is around 500. 

I have a 4040RO with booster and a DI set up to make my water, going through a charcoal filter and a sediment filter first.

I'm after some advice as some of the filters may need replacing and I'd like some specific advice (I've spent lots of time searching around).

So I got the equipment second hand and this is what I'd like help with

1. The resin is a brand I've not heard of so will be swapping to Tulsion when what I have is all gone.

2. The RO is a 4040 with a booster, it's coming out of the RO at 21PPM without the pump and 14PPM with the pump on, now, taking into account the electricity cost for running the booster would you say its more cost efficient to use it without the booster and use resin a little more often?

3. Which RO membrane is best, is there one specific for running a 4040 without a booster pump for instance 

4. With water of 500PPM going in is 14PPM a candidate for replacement?

5.. As the pre filters are so cheap is it worth replacing them each time I change resin?

6. I have a 6L under DI vessel, is it OK to use 5L of resin in it to get 5 goes out of it each lasting a little less, or does using less than full resin have any side effects other than running out quicker on a per L basis?

Thank you for any help, James 
@doug atkinson is the best one to advise on this , he’s a good honest guy and sells quality kit but won’t try and sell you stuff you don’t need . 

 
Thanks, what's 450gpd? 

What's the benefit of a bigger resin vessel apart from less time before changes? 

My resin has been in 6 weeks and still getting 000, I use about 2000L a week.

North Norfolk you say, you're not the person I saw about 2 or 3 months ago doing a gutter and fascia job in Caister are you? As I remember him saying he was North Norfolk
GPD gallons per day.

No mate im North Norfolk i dont venture much further than 8/10 miles from home in Holt apart from once a month for  contract.

 
1) What’s the brand of the resin would be interested to know

2) Your membrane is fine so no need to change it

5) Avoid cheep pre-filters as would you put cheep oil in a good engine. Pentair CFP-Plus 10 or 20 5 micron are good pre-filters.

6) 5 litres of resin for 6 litre vessel is fine.

With your water being very hard make sure you flush your membrane a lot. Also your hardness will effect the life of your membrane.

 
1) What’s the brand of the resin would be interested to know

2) Your membrane is fine so no need to change it

5) Avoid cheep pre-filters as would you put cheep oil in a good engine. Pentair CFP-Plus 10 or 20 5 micron are good pre-filters.

6) 5 litres of resin for 6 litre vessel is fine.

With your water being very hard make sure you flush your membrane a lot. Also your hardness will effect the life of your membrane.
What is flushing the system? I've never been told about this by the guy I got it from and my mate over the road who does WFP. Thanks for your help 

 
What is flushing the system? I've never been told about this by the guy I got it from and my mate over the road who does WFP. Thanks for your help 
The waste output from the membrane normally has a valve of some sort on to restrict the output so to have teh membrane under pressure. The valve also is to control the % of waste vs pure - normal is 40% pure 60% waste.

The RO is to remove the TDS and the waste is to get rid of the TDS but you really need to flush the TDS out of the membrane after each use. To do this first note the position of your waste valve as it will be partially open, then to flush have your water on and open the waste valve fully for about 2-5mins each time you use it if not for longer. Then after the time close the waste back to where it was - NEVER fully close it unless it has a hole drilled to allow some flow.

Hope that gives you an idea?

 
The waste output from the membrane normally has a valve of some sort on to restrict the output so to have teh membrane under pressure. The valve also is to control the % of waste vs pure - normal is 40% pure 60% waste.

The RO is to remove the TDS and the waste is to get rid of the TDS but you really need to flush the TDS out of the membrane after each use. To do this first note the position of your waste valve as it will be partially open, then to flush have your water on and open the waste valve fully for about 2-5mins each time you use it if not for longer. Then after the time close the waste back to where it was - NEVER fully close it unless it has a hole drilled to allow some flow.

Hope that gives you an idea?
Perfect thank you 

1) What’s the brand of the resin would be interested to know

2) Your membrane is fine so no need to change it

5) Avoid cheep pre-filters as would you put cheep oil in a good engine. Pentair CFP-Plus 10 or 20 5 micron are good pre-filters.

6) 5 litres of resin for 6 litre vessel is fine.

With your water being very hard make sure you flush your membrane a lot. Also your hardness will effect the life of your membrane.
How long do the membranes usually last roughly, and which would you recommend buying?

 
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