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400 GPD reverse osmosis diy water fed pole system

kyle

New member
Messages
13
Can anyone give directions on how to connect everything together as I got instructions for wrong kit mine is 400GPD and has 2 800flow parts.Im just not sure would appreciate helpView attachment 7021

 
It looks like the Streamline 300 GPD version that they and a few others sell @kyle.

The three filters below are called the prefilters. The clear filter bowl on the right of the picture is the sediment filter. On the filter housing there should be an inlet that the tap hose is connected to. That's the system's starting point. Out of the sediment filter is a pipe joining the middle filter housing inlet and then another pipe out of the middle housing into the third housing. The middle housing will be a carbon block filter to remove chlorine from the water and the third housing is a GAC filter which does something similar. (Both carbon filters can be replaced with a single fiberdyne filter if it is a 10" filter bowl. The fiberdyne filters last much longer.)

There will be a pipe leaving the third housing and going into the membrane housing sitting above the 3 prefilter housings. This is the inlet to the r/o. On the other side of this housing are 2 outlets, one to waste and the other is to pure. I don't know which is which but if you turn the supply on, the water that is coming out the fastest is the waste.

The waste should have a tap or an inline restrictor to throttle back the waste. This increases the pressure on the membrane to start it filtering pure water. The ratio of waste to pure will need to be set if you have a tap adjustment. Waste to pure ratio can be anything between 3 waste to 1 pure to 1 waste and 1 pure. Never switch the waste tap off completely or you could/will damage the membrane. Adjust the tap and take pure water reading with your tds meter a few minutes after you have made an adjustment. Your need to find the 'sweet spot' where the r/o is producing pure at the lowest tds.

We have a 6 liter di vessel after our r/o to polish off any metals/minerals that the r/o doesn't get. But you can do this on your van if you like.

 
Looks similar to mine tho mine is the 300 Gpd version. There should be one inlet (that's the one at the top of the smokey coloured pre filter.) Tap water goes in here.

Then there will be two outlets. One is waste and will be marked 'drain' or something like that, and it's obvious where you put the water.

The other will is your pure water and should be marked accordingly. Water from here should go to your DI vessel then to your storage tank. These will come out of the white cylinder/s on top of the unit.

The water doesn't come flooding out. It trickles out. If your water pressure is good it should provide enough water for one man operator. If your pressure is low you will need a booster pump. If you do, you need to talk to you supplier to make sure you get the right one or your unit.

Hope this helps Kyle

 
Must learn to type faster. Well done Spruce. That is much better than mine
No my reply isn't better than yours @Marko067. /emoticons/smile.png

You added extra detail that I omitted to mention. I have never seen one of those r/o's in the flesh so I didn't know that the housing outlets were marked. That's very valuable info and makes things much easier.

I forgot to mention the holding tank. You also added the booster pump detail.

I didn't clarify that when deciding which outlet of the r/o housing is waste and which is pure by their water flow, the membrane has to be inside. :zzz:

Between the two of us I believe we have answered @kyle question completely. So pat on the back to both of us. /emoticons/biggrin.png

 
It looks like the Streamline 300 GPD version that they and a few others sell @kyle.
The three filters below are called the prefilters. The clear filter bowl on the right of the picture is the sediment filter. On the filter housing there should be an inlet that the tap hose is connected to. That's the system's starting point. Out of the sediment filter is a pipe joining the middle filter housing inlet and then another pipe out of the middle housing into the third housing. The middle housing will be a carbon block filter to remove chlorine from the water and the third housing is a GAC filter which does something similar. (Both carbon filters can be replaced with a single fiberdyne filter if it is a 10" filter bowl. The fiberdyne filters last much longer.)

There will be a pipe leaving the third housing and going into the membrane housing sitting above the 3 prefilter housings. This is the inlet to the r/o. On the other side of this housing are 2 outlets, one to waste and the other is to pure. I don't know which is which but if you turn the supply on, the water that is coming out the fastest is the waste.

The waste should have a tap or an inline restrictor to throttle back the waste. This increases the pressure on the membrane to start it filtering pure water. The ratio of waste to pure will need to be set if you have a tap adjustment. Waste to pure ratio can be anything between 3 waste to 1 pure to 1 waste and 1 pure. Never switch the waste tap off completely or you could/will damage the membrane. Adjust the tap and take pure water reading with your tds meter a few minutes after you have made an adjustment. Your need to find the 'sweet spot' where the r/o is producing pure at the lowest tds.

We have a 6 liter di vessel after our r/o to polish off any metals/minerals that the r/o doesn't get. But you can do this on your van if you like.
Thanks guys mine is definitely a 400 as says on box u have both been great help

Looks similar to mine tho mine is the 300 Gpd version. There should be one inlet (that's the one at the top of the smokey coloured pre filter.) Tap water goes in here.Then there will be two outlets. One is waste and will be marked 'drain' or something like that, and it's obvious where you put the water.

The other will is your pure water and should be marked accordingly. Water from here should go to your DI vessel then to your storage tank. These will come out of the white cylinder/s on top of the unit.

The water doesn't come flooding out. It trickles out. If your water pressure is good it should provide enough water for one man operator. If your pressure is low you will need a booster pump. If you do, you need to talk to you supplier to make sure you get the right one or your unit.

Hope this helps Kyle
Thanks great help

 
No my reply isn't better than yours @Marko067. /emoticons/smile.png
You added extra detail that I omitted to mention. I have never seen one of those r/o's in the flesh so I didn't know that the housing outlets were marked. That's very valuable info and makes things much easier.

I forgot to mention the holding tank. You also added the booster pump detail.

I didn't clarify that when deciding which outlet of the r/o housing is waste and which is pure by their water flow, the membrane has to be inside. :zzz:

Between the two of us I believe we have answered @kyle question completely. So pat on the back to both of us. /emoticons/biggrin.png
U both helped great thanks

 
Thankyou Spruce. We didn't do too bad did we. :thumbsup: Let's hope it all works now.

Give it a couple of years Kyle and you'll be pulling it all to pieces to maintain it like a pro that is if you haven't decided to upgrade to a 4040. A new guy set up a trading center near me for wfp alongside another business a couple of years back and he's a real nice fella. I bought my current RO from him. He offered to fit the membrane for me so I thought, why not, it'll save me doing it. It was fun watching him try to get the RO canister apart to fit the membrane. He hadn't got a clue. I didn't want to embarrass the poor chap but in the end I had to help him get it all apart. He insisted on putting the membrane in so I let him. He was trying so hard. When I got home and plumbed it in nothing worked. So I took it all apart and he'd fitted the membrane backwards and broken a crucial little piece inside. Fortunately it was repairable.

My point is when you get to understand how it all works you will find it fun in some respects and also be able to troubleshoot when things go wrong.

Saying that I have a puzzle I haven't yet been able solve re a permeate pump I have fitted to my kit. I'll start another thread and see if anyone can answer it

 
Mind me asking how much you paid? I'm looking at getting the 450 from daqua.

 
Thankyou Spruce. We didn't do too bad did we. :thumbsup: Let's hope it all works now.
Give it a couple of years Kyle and you'll be pulling it all to pieces to maintain it like a pro that is if you haven't decided to upgrade to a 4040. A new guy set up a trading center near me for wfp alongside another business a couple of years back and he's a real nice fella. I bought my current RO from him. He offered to fit the membrane for me so I thought, why not, it'll save me doing it. It was fun watching him try to get the RO canister apart to fit the membrane. He hadn't got a clue. I didn't want to embarrass the poor chap but in the end I had to help him get it all apart. He insisted on putting the membrane in so I let him. He was trying so hard. When I got home and plumbed it in nothing worked. So I took it all apart and he'd fitted the membrane backwards and broken a crucial little piece inside. Fortunately it was repairable.

My point is when you get to understand how it all works you will find it fun in some respects and also be able to troubleshoot when things go wrong.

Saying that I have a puzzle I haven't yet been able solve re a permeate pump I have fitted to my kit. I'll start another thread and see if anyone can answer it
I have 2 flow 800 is one waste and 1 fresh they connect so I'm confused

 
Hi Kyle.

Can't see the rest of your setup there but just looked at mine. I have a single 'flow/600' on mine. It's connected to the waste (drain) side of the output from the RO and is the 'restricter' that spruce mentioned. Bear in mind that mine is the 300gpd version and only has one RO canister.

Do you have two RO canisters on your unit. If so that would explain having two restricters, one for each RO. The reason for having them is to create a pressure great enough on the input side of the ROs to force water through the membranes as without them almost all your water would bypass the membranes and go straight down the drain.

The pure water pipe coming out of your RO should have no restricter on it and should go to your DI vessel to polish it off so to speak before storing it.

Is that helpful?

 
Hi Kyle. Can't see the rest of your setup there but just looked at mine. I have a single 'flow/600' on mine. It's connected to the waste (drain) side of the output from the RO and is the 'restricter' that spruce mentioned. Bear in mind that mine is the 300gpd version and only has one RO canister.

Do you have two RO canisters on your unit. If so that would explain having two restricters, one for each RO. The reason for having them is to create a pressure great enough on the input side of the ROs to force water through the membranes as without them almost all your water would bypass the membranes and go straight down the drain.

The pure water pipe coming out of your RO should have no restricter on it and should go to your DI vessel to polish it off so to speak before storing it.

Is that helpful?
Yes all set up cheers been great help

 
Excellent /emoticons/biggrin.png

These forums are great aren't they. I found a lot of help when I started and I'm still learning 8 years in with WFP

Best wishes Kyle

 
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