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Moving to a 4040 in the van

koopmaster

Well-known member
Messages
1,215
Guys I have a 200 gpd system and a 1000l tank in the house and I want to move pure water making into the van.

If I buy a 4040 and half pipe and connectors and a hoselock connections what else do I need. It has to be done

 
Booster pump if you have low pressure and flow from tap. If you don't want to invest in a booster pump then go for a 4021 system.

 
Depends where the van is going to be sat as you may want to keep all the doors locked etc so outside ports maybe required. Not only that but an auto shut off would be a good idea fitted to the tank so it in theory will not flood the van

 
Got myself a 11l di vessel. Just need either a 4040 or a 4020. Not sure which one?

I can use my old 200 gpd system and just remove the old membranes. Will need to replace the pipes.

Not sure how you get the booster pump to work off a leasure battery though.

 
Got myself a 11l di vessel. Just need either a 4040 or a 4020. Not sure which one?
I can use my old 200 gpd system and just remove the old membranes. Will need to replace the pipes.

Not sure how you get the booster pump to work off a leasure battery though.
The prefilters on your old r/o use 1/4" tube and 1/4" push in fittings. The fittings on the 4040 are 1/2". I think this also applies to the 4021. So you can't use your old prefilters as 1/4" tubing won't have enough flow.

For a 4040 I would always recommend you go for 20" prefilter housings. The filters are twice the price (Fiberdyne & sediment) but they last twice as long - less hassle in the long term.

I would go the HF5 route first before resorting to a booster pump. That booster pump needs to be 230v unless you can use one of those Vyair 12 LPM 12v pumps, but they will hammer battery power and doubt they are up to the job of continuous running.

 
Hi @spruce :) a few weeks ago you gave me some great advise about upgrading my 450GPD system up to a 4040 RO unit ;-) :

..........................................................................................................................

Look at what Doug at www.daqua.co.uk has. He has one for £533.99.

http://www.daqua.co.uk/ro_systems.htm

I see that Daqua is now selling the long service life carbon block which has a very high service life for a 10" filter. I haven't seen it before on there - Interesting.

Vyair have been also doing something similar slightly cheaper,

http://www.vyair.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=370

They have the larger prefilter housings but are only including standard (not so good) carbon block filters. Vyair do sell a different brand of 4040 housing which is cheaper than the more common Champ housing, so this is why they are cheaper - cheaper housing and inferior prefilters.

Guys have had good service from both these companies. but I would go with Dougs, albeit a little more expensive. But that's my opinion and according to my experience. I have never bought anything from Vyair but I have from Daqua.

I can't see from your picture what inlet and outlet (waste) your system uses but I would presume that it would be 1/2" reduced to 1/4" with a reducer to suit the r/o inlet and outlets.

It will be easy to fit the 1/2" hose to your prefilters.

Use this to screw into the prefilter inlet.

http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/al...in-fitting-to-1-2-male-screw-bspt-thread.html

use this to push into that male connector

http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/al...1-2-fittings/a-john-guest-stem-to-a-barb.html

Use this if you need a 90 degree bend.

http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/al...ngs/1-2-fittings/john-guest-a-stem-elbow.html

Secure the hose onto the barb with either 'o' clips or jubilee clamps.

Daqua will also do those fittings. Add a couple of turns of PTFE tape or other liquid thread sealer to the male threads before assembly.

..........................................................................................................................

I've decided i'm going to purchase and retro fit the Daqua 4040 unit to my van ;-), I've attached a couple of photos showing my existing set up, please can you take another look and let me know what you think i'll need to do? unfortunately the links on the great information for the fittings you gave me before don't seem to work anymore :-(??? also please can you give me some advise on what/if I need to do regarding the DI process side of things? As always your help would be very much appreciated. Cheers Greener ;-)View attachment 4803

View attachment 4802

 
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Would that 40 40 setup ever get to 0 in london? I was thinking of running 3 pretty filters then a 40 40 then a 11 l di resin in the can all on a 1/2 hoselock so I can connect to a hosepipe and just fill a 800 l tank in a few hours.

 
Hi @Greener. Always glad to help.

With regard to reducing 1/2" inlet piping to 1/4". Yes he can use a reducer, but at the point the water goes into the prefilter is where the issue is. The diameter of the orifice going into the prefilter head is smaller and this will reduce the amount of flow going through the system. At 50 psi 1/4" id tube will deliver 1 GPM of water where 1/2" hose will deliver around 7 GPM. (I think Doug once mentioned on a post that a 4040 needs about 3 GPM minimum to work properly.) So reducing that pipe at that point will cause a restriction and a reduced flow.

When I changed over from a 450GPD to a 4040, I thought about drilling those inlet and outlets to 1/2" and tapping a new thread. At the tail end of the day I just replaced the housings as I wasn't 100% sure my hair brain idea would work. 1/2" BSP thread taps are also not cheap.

Doug doesn't appear to sell 20" Fiberdyne carbon prefilters so I usually get mine from Gardiners. A 10" Fiberdyne filter will handle 38,000 liters of water (total waste and pure) and a 20" 78,000 liters (waste and pure). This is why I opted for the 20" prefilters.

 
@Greener. As regards changing your system to a 4040. It appears to me that you have 1/2" piping going to your prefilters. I'm not sure about the size of the solenoid valve valve though. I appears to also be 1/2" but I can't see from the photo. If its 1/4" then it needs upgrading to 1/2".

You already have a Purefreedom tank and frame so fitting a 4040 should be easy. Just copy what PF have as a stand alone system.

http://www.purefreedom.co.uk/water-purification/reverse-osmosis/2400-gpd-high-volume-reverse-osmosis-system-40-membrane-40-hf5-1003.html

You can see both sides of this stand alone system by clicking on the thumbnails.

Their 250 litre 2 man system is also easy to copy.

http://www.purefreedom.co.uk/water-fed-poles/pure-freedom-fully-fitted-water-fed-pole-systems-998.html

If your water pressure is low (ours is 50psi) then I would recommend you consider an HF5 membrane rather than an HF4.

 
Hi @Greener. Always glad to help.
With regard to reducing 1/2" inlet piping to 1/4". Yes he can use a reducer, but at the point the water goes into the prefilter is where the issue is. The diameter of the orifice going into the prefilter head is smaller and this will reduce the amount of flow going through the system. At 50 psi 1/4" id tube will deliver 1 GPM of water where 1/2" hose will deliver around 7 GPM. (I think Doug once mentioned on a post that a 4040 needs about 3 GPM minimum to work properly.) So reducing that pipe at that point will cause a restriction and a reduced flow.

When I changed over from a 450GPD to a 4040, I thought about drilling those inlet and outlets to 1/2" and tapping a new thread. At the tail end of the day I just replaced the housings as I wasn't 100% sure my hair brain idea would work. 1/2" BSP thread taps are also not cheap.

Doug doesn't appear to sell 20" Fiberdyne carbon prefilters so I usually get mine from Gardiners. A 10" Fiberdyne filter will handle 38,000 liters of water (total waste and pure) and a 20" 78,000 liters (waste and pure). This is why I opted for the 20" prefilters.
Hi @spruce is this post intended for me? As I haven't mentioned anything about reducing 1/2" inlet piping to 1/4"???

 
Hi @Greener. I got confused with all the quotes above. Sorry. I'll just crawl back under my rock again.:zzz:
LoL /emoticons/wink.png don't worry it is the weekend after all :clap: I'm going to take a water pressure reading today and then take it form there. Must warn you probably more questions to come if that's OK? Cheers greener /emoticons/smile.png

 
Hi @spruce /emoticons/wink.png well ive taken a water pressure reading today using a pressure gauge I purchased from TOOL STATION its the type you screw directly onto the tap turn on and the gauge gives a reading in BAR & PSI and I also timed how long it took to fill a one liter container to establish the FLOW RATE?

Now ive always thought I had very good water pressure coming form my outside tap but now i'm not to sure? when i put the gauge on and turn the tap to full it gives a reading of 5BAR 75ishPSI, and when I timed how long it took to fill the 1ltr container it took 8 seconds so about 8 ltrs a minute????

The information on the daqua site regarding the 4040 Reverse Osmosis Kit

http://www.daqua.co.uk/ro_systems.htm




To achieve maximum output on your 4040 Reverse Osmosis System the input pressure needs to be 80 psi / 5.52 bar and at least 21 litres/min coming from your water supply. A booster pump may be required to achieve the maximum output.

So im nearly where the pressure needs to be but way out on the flow rate??????? 21litres a min [delusional]WOOOOOOOW

Am I reading this wrong or what LOL :wondering:

Also if i'm getting 5Bar of pressure from the tap will it also be 5bar going into the RO if it has to go through around 8feet of hose due to where I park the van whilst filling???

Cheers Greener ;-)

 
75 psi is good water pressure in my books.

However, as you have found out, having a higher than normal water pressure doesn't mean you have a good water flow. The pressure will always be there but if your pipes are 'furred' up with calcium then the flow will be restricted. It could also be a restriction somewhere in your pipework.

The first thing I would do is to ensure that your internal stop valve (ours is in the kitchen under the sink) is fully open.

Also check if the stop valve in the street is fully open.

Another point of restriction could be at your tap connection. I have often seen those self piercing saddle clamps used to fit external taps. They are a prime source of restriction.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/291252894717?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&rlsatarget=&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

Another point to check is the plumbers sometimes fit an inline on/off tap so the homeowner can switch the water to the outside tap off in the house during winter.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15mm-Isolating-Valve-Chrome-Different-Pack-Size-1-2-5-10-BL15CP-E2trade-/221379411911?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item338b3dbfc7

I would also ask your neighbours if you can measure their water flow.

I hope that someone, like Doug, who is more experienced in r/o's than I am will be along to add his experience.

With regards to my setup, I have 50 psi at the tap and a flow rate of 13 LPM. I get by with an HF5 membrane and no booster pump. I have plumbed my r/o water line from the downstairs toilet supply into the garage where my r/o is, but I do have an outside tap which is taken from the cold water supply to our downstairs bath. I can still filter water reasonably successfully with a hose spray watering the garden as well.

The way I see it - my 4040 produces 2 liters of pure to 2 liters of waste per minute. So whilst my r/o is working my system is using 4 liters of water per minute. Tap tds is 98ppm and the pure out of the r/o is usually 2ppm.

 

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