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Brush type versus slug trials

keir

Well-known member
Messages
1,028
Been swapping brushes recently between gardiners extreme medium mixed and mixed sill, i usually nowadays use the extreme only as i find the swivel neck works best with it, and save the sill for pvc jobs

But finding bird dack and even worse fly cr@p (little blobs of bright orange stuff) nigh on impossible to get off, so thought the sill brush has twice more bristles so therefore should be twice as easy....

Yes it does, not easier than i thought but still a bit easier. But i have also noticed that the sill brush comes nowhere near as close to removing slug trials as the extreme!! Weird. also i find the sill much harder to use on the window and frustrating on the sills with the swivel neck, where as the extreme does both amazingly well.

So now i cant use a scraper along with the AD its ecover to the rescue......hopefully

 
How you finding rinsing with the flocked tuffers? Never tried one, but i was soooo close to ordering another brush this week, getting as bad as you lmao

I have two extreme's and two mixed sills and a pro clean which might as well go in the bin, it weighs as much as a brick and marks any plastic the stock comes anywhere near.

 
I've read on the net that flocked brushes make the water sheet more. Not noticed it tbh. It does make a more of an abrasive sound on the glass when scrubbing though.

 
there is only one brush for slug trails an thats the tecbuk hibrid or the tecbuk black they will get rid of fly poo as well;)

 
.

there is only one brush for slug trails an thats the tecbuk hibrid or the tecbuk black they will get rid of fly poo as well;)
That's TWO Tench /emoticons/tongue.png .....you been on the pop again /emoticons/wink.png :laugh:

 
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Snail trails on the glass can be removed easily without really thinking about it. You might need to apply another brush stroke or 2 if your cleaning angle goes opposite the trail when cleaning.

If you can’t remove a snail tail in about 1 second with 3-4 short brush strokes over the trail – you are using the wrong type of bristle.

It would depend on the brush bristle type that decides how fast you can remove snail trails, the brush type of trim finish - duel trim of full trim has less effect.

The amount of bristles - bristle density is important for 100% coverage when cleaning otherwise you will need to apply more brush strokes if the brush has sparse bristles, sparse brushes only look like they are cleaning, they only go over what you are trying to clean they don’t actually touch what you are trying to clean, hence you will need more brush stokes.

Your only choice for faster removal of snail trails is an absorbent brush bristle - Boars bristles is best - for an artificial bristle, Nylon monofilament is best.

You can use a non absorbent brush filament, such as Polyester monofilament - you could expend more energy and use a lot more brush stokes and more water just to remove 1 snail trail when compared to using the correct type of brush.

Richard

 
Or maybe just try using hot pure water instead. I found works well with any type of brush as the hot water does most of the work not the brush.

there is only one brush for slug trails an thats the tecbuk hibrid or the tecbuk black they will get rid of fly poo as well;)


Snail trails on the glass can be removed easily without really thinking about it. You might need to apply another brush stroke or 2 if your cleaning angle goes opposite the trail when cleaning.

If you can’t remove a snail tail in about 1 second with 3-4 short brush strokes over the trail – you are using the wrong type of bristle.

It would depend on the brush bristle type that decides how fast you can remove snail trails, the brush type of trim finish - duel trim of full trim has less effect.

The amount of bristles - bristle density is important for 100% coverage when cleaning otherwise you will need to apply more brush strokes if the brush has sparse bristles, sparse brushes only look like they are cleaning, they only go over what you are trying to clean they don’t actually touch what you are trying to clean, hence you will need more brush stokes.

Your only choice for faster removal of snail trails is an absorbent brush bristle - Boars bristles is best - for an artificial bristle, Nylon monofilament is best.

You can use a non absorbent brush filament, such as Polyester monofilament - you could expend more energy and use a lot more brush stokes and more water just to remove 1 snail trail when compared to using the correct type of brush.

Richard
 
Regarding brushes I have a new sally sill (wide fan jetted) brush @Tuffers to add to my collection so one day I might even catch up with you. /emoticons/biggrin.png

 
Regarding brushes I have a new sally sill (wide fan jetted) brush @Tuffers to add to my collection so one day I might even catch up with you. /emoticons/biggrin.png
You'll never catch me up @Smurf :cool:. One thing I do notice with Sally, is, her public hair comes out and gets stuck in the gutter brackets :whistle:

 
Yep I've noticed that too but can happen with any type of bush...sorry I mean brush you use

Personally I don't like to use a bald sally do you?

That reminds me of your hair dryer little mishap on poor old sally /emoticons/biggrin.png

 
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Or maybe just try using hot pure water instead. I found works well with any type of brush as the hot water does most of the work not the brush.

You can use heated water for snail trails, smurf, although the brush still does most of the work, unless you just stand there and spray hot water at the window: hot water isn’t needed anyhow; using cold for maintenance cleans is much quicker than heated water.

With the right brush and water flow rate you can vastly reduce the final rinse with cold water or not do it at all, at your discretion – you can’t really do that with hot water, not unless you are prepared to stand there and clean each window for a lot longer. Time is money, so not recommended.

When I window clean snail trails are not even a concern, if anyone is having any problems at all with something as basic as snail trails, granted you do need to change something.

Richard

 
I'm not the one with the problem richard

You can use heated water for snail trails, smurf, although the brush still does most of the work, unless you just stand there and spray hot water at the window: hot water isn’t needed anyhow; using cold for maintenance cleans is much quicker than heated water.

With the right brush and water flow rate you can vastly reduce the final rinse with cold water or not do it at all, at your discretion – you can’t really do that with hot water, not unless you are prepared to stand there and clean each window for a lot longer. Time is money, so not recommended.

When I window clean snail trails are not even a concern, if anyone is having any problems at all with something as basic as snail trails, granted you do need to change something.

Richard
 
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Shame you never listened richard to what others have been saying about the weight and how your brushes could be improved as most butcher the stock to make it work better to reduce the risk of damaging frames etc.

 
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You can use heated water for snail trails, smurf, although the brush still does most of the work, unless you just stand there and spray hot water at the window: hot water isn’t needed anyhow; using cold for maintenance cleans is much quicker than heated water.

With the right brush and water flow rate you can vastly reduce the final rinse with cold water or not do it at all, at your discretion – you can’t really do that with hot water, not unless you are prepared to stand there and clean each window for a lot longer. Time is money, so not recommended.

When I window clean snail trails are not even a concern, if anyone is having any problems at all with something as basic as snail trails, granted you do need to change something.

Richard
@Richard, did you ever make the carbon brush?

 
I have been listening smurf, but it takes some time to collate the information accurately and then make the changes, measure the improvements with prototyping and then go ahead and produce the finished version

The individual changes to the brush are small, they can be measured in millimetres and grams; overall the new brush looks different and feels different.

The hard part was to make the brush stock smaller and at the same time increase the cleaning area. I have manage to do this, it wasn’t easy the new brush has approximately 12% more cleaning area the brush stock is 34% thinner, 10% lighter, 3% shorter. They will be on the website in a couple of weeks.

Tuffers, yes I did make the CF brush, but I think it is to expensive to make in its current version, you wont buy it, window cleaners can be price sensitive. It has 3mm brush stock that doesn’t flex or bend. Depending on the bristle type the weight of the brush is 180g -200g. Keep in mind most of the brush weight, is the brushes cleaning bristles. I don’t think there is a point in making a brush lighter by removing the cleaning bristles, its all about speed of cleaning, that’s in part how you generate your profits. The new Aerial brush biggest improvement is the 12% increase in cleaning area – whether a user of a new Aerial brush can translate some of that 12% to profits, it’s up to them.

Richard

 
Sounds interesting Richard

Do you have any pics and/or vid you could post on here to show the difference from the original to the new design?

Also in the vid would be good to see the full range of new brushes together as then you could explain the difference in bristle types for the types of jobs they are most suited for.

 
I think Bingo's been on the pop myself.
I read this comment yesterday and thought........'What's HE on about :confused:!'

Just read it again....:oops:....and I see what I did....ooopps :whistle:....sorry Tuffers :thumbsup:.

 
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