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Cleanz

Please help me to set up my RO! :)

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Cleanz

I bought all the bits I needed to set up my RO, but I spent hours trying to figure it out (not the sharpest tool in the box).

 

I've got a 450gpd, a pump, an in-line TDS meter and a pressure gauge.

 

I've got a red hose, I've got blue hose, I've got white hose. I haven't got a clue.

 

Not sure where to start, is the hozelock connection on it an "Out" or "In"? I do have an adapter for the smaller 1/4 hose as well, so not sure.

 

If some kind soul could explain it to me in the simplest of terms, what needs to go where lol.20140524_135538_1.jpg

20140524_135548_1.jpg

20140524_135600_1.jpg

20140524_135606_1.jpg

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macca

[media]

[/media] try this link and the booster goes in between tap and RO

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Cleanz

Thanks, yep I understand that but not sure how to wire it all up - that RO is different to mine and is wired up differently. (I watched the whole video). Also I have no idea how to wire in everything else or where the water even starts? What's in or out etc?

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Cleanz

Yep Outside tap in garden goes round the side of the house and into the garage.

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Smurf

Hi, Regarding how that RO works so you understand the basics as follows:

Male hozelock on body of RO = Tap water inlet

Red pipe outlet = Waste water goes to drain

Blue pipe outlet = RO water connects to your 10 inch DI canister inlet if you have one.

White pipe = Goes in the outlet side of a 10 inch DI canister if you have one or use the 1/4 - hozelock adapter (bottom left of pic) to connect to your inlet side of your DI tank instead.

@Cleanz are you with me so far?

 

I bought all the bits I needed to set up my RO, but I spent hours trying to figure it out (not the sharpest tool in the box).

 

I've got a 450gpd, a pump, an in-line TDS meter and a pressure gauge.

 

I've got a red hose, I've got blue hose, I've got white hose. I haven't got a clue.

 

Not sure where to start, is the hozelock connection on it an "Out" or "In"? I do have an adapter for the smaller 1/4 hose as well, so not sure.

 

If some kind soul could explain it to me in the simplest of terms, what needs to go where lol.20140524_135538_1.jpg

20140524_135548_1.jpg

20140524_135600_1.jpg

20140524_135606_1.jpg

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Smurf

The booster pump if required can be fitted before the tap inlet of the RO but looks like that one comes fitted with 1/4 inch push fit connections so maybe not. Best check with the supplier on that one as I don't use a booster pump but looks like it should be fitted after the pre filters and before the first membrane instead.

 

The pressure gauge should come with a T connector that can be fitted anywhere you like but best fitted before the membranes so to give an accurate reading.

 

The inline tds should also have two T connectors so the red and blue wired probes can be setup to go before and after the di if you like.

 

I like to flush the ro before I start producing pure so I simply disconnect the DI inlet first then flush the ro for a few mins as in doing so check the tds reading on the outlet of the membranes (not the waste outlet as is pointless in doing so). If the tds remains above 10 after flushing for a long periord of time then it's usally time to change the pre filters. Again I flush the ro for a while once the filters are changed.

 

Make sure you flush the RO first for at least an hour before trying to produce pure.

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Cleanz

Smurf thanks so much, I think I've finally got it - your simple explanation made things easier to understand! I asked on another forum about the Pump and aparently it goes after the blue filters but before the white membranes *shrugs*.

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Smurf

No probs & yes I thought the pump would go there to be honest.

 

You just have to discounect the inlet on the first membrane or the outlet on the prefilters then fit the pump inline there also the pressure gauge too then just connect the pipe back into the membrane.

 

Let us know when it's sorted :thumbsup:

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Cleanz

One more question mate, flush for an hour presumably with pump going?

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Cleanz

Setup after some major leakages water flooding the garage - now working Few Minor leaks. Next thing, pressure is at 40 with or without the pump. Doesn't seem to make a difference....

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Cleanz

Yep I double checked it this morning - it's not the end of the world but I will need to keep putting scrims underneath it or it's gonna soak the floor/wall over time.

 

Managed to get the pump working, was being stupid - I hadn't switched the pump off of flush to normal.

 

The outgoing water is 006 tds which is nice, the pressure gauge goes haywire, hard to tell what the actual pressure is - 1000ltr is taking a lifetime to fill at a guess it's maybe 1/12 full after 4 hours. Is that normalish?

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Smurf

My 300 gpd take about 24 hours to fill a 1000 litre ibc with 000 ppm pure water...It's a good job I'm not on a water meter though as the water is on most of the time.:D

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Smurf

There should also be no leaks from your RO unit at all as will affect the water pressure going through the RO membranes.

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