Leaving marks?

Finally got the van up and running. First window I did every drop left on it, left a mark. 2nd time I went over had about 20 drop marks per window. Is their a reason for this? Or have I just not cleaned the window thoroughly? The waters coming out at 15 tds from 200 tds. I'm using a 5 stage ro kit with Di chamber built in to it. I know you have to go over the windows twice on a first clean, and leave time between both cleans. I have a 400 litre tank, and 1200 litre a day ro kit. Took 8 hours to fill up 200 litres as well, 16 hours for full tank ?

ahh i only trad but studying wfp and you broke the 10ppm max rule... as if i know what i am talking about....they will be along shortly...the wfp experts...

If your wfp technique is good and you use 000 ppm pure water then you should not get any run marks or spotting on the glass.

This maybe of intrest too

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15PPM is too high to work with. Were the water marks in straight lines like this?



Did you go over top frame and rinse it well? Are the seals cr@p? Have you seen the results when the window has dried? Was it every house?

sherlock tuffers on the case...he he he he

Yeah its not water dripping down tuff. After I've rinsed th window it looks like your pic, with 100s of drops left on it. After they've dried have let outline of the drops as king of smear marks. I've only practiced on 2 houses, 50% of the windows are clear, other half arnt. Guessing it's down to technique?

Spilt water on my phone too, excuse the bad spelling it's got a life of its own at the mo lol

Yeah its not water dripping down tuff. After I've rinsed th window it looks like your pic, with 100s of drops left on it. After they've dried have let outline of the drops as king of smear marks. I've only practiced on 2 houses, 50% of the windows are clear, other half arnt. Guessing it's down to technique?

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Cr@p seals then. There are a few ways of getting round it.

1) Don't rub over the seal at the top, but buffer your brush up to it and rinse below the seal. This will mean a dirty top frame and possibly a few visible white dirt spots where you haven't rinsed.

Or

2) Rub like mad over the top frame and seal. Others have suggested Ubik on the seal before. I have had houses that spot and have tried method #2 and it has worked.

Also get your water down to 000PPM.

Also it takes a while to get into the swing of it. It ain't a magic wand :thumbsdown:

Could also be caused by dirty water still coming out of frame drainage holes or dripping dirty vents that got wet to name just another 2 reason @Tuffers and there are more

Ever notice those silly holes in the bottom of quarter lights that spiders hide in, I mean, WTF are they about?

Think I've cracked the tds. The ro kit I got says it only removes 0.1 iron ppm max, guessing I'll need some Di vessels added on to the ro kit, as I'm assuming out of the 200 ppm to begin with, more than 0.1 will be iron!

They are frame drainage holes @Tuffers and others are hidden on some frames too

Lost me there as I thought you already had a 10" refillable di cannister with resin in it?

Think I've cracked the tds. The ro kit I got says it only removes 0.1 iron ppm max, guessing I'll need some Di vessels added on to the ro kit, as I'm assuming out of the 200 ppm to begin with, more than 0.1 will be iron!

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thats the RO kit im using, left chamber is DI. Looking at the manual it only removes 0.1 ppm of iron though. So going to invest in a 9 litre DI tank?

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get the water well below 10 tds and if the windows are old with **** seals then wash the frame and glass properly - leave them a while then clean the glass ONLY - that works for me

get the water well below 10 tds and if the windows are old with **** seals then wash the frame and glass properly - leave them a while then clean the glass ONLY - that works for me

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thats what I would do

I have never cleaned above five tds

i keep my iq at 000, no i mean my tds, its the golden number:thumbsup: