Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

koopmaster

TDS 10 new system HELP

Recommended Posts

koopmaster

Hi All, I just got a 100gpd with DI system. I connected everything and have run about 50 L and my TDS is still 10.

 

My tap TDS is 150 - 170 so I would expect the 10 TDS to be without my resin in but I have put the resin canister in from the start and its still 10.

 

I suspect I have burned out the resin (or at least thats what I was told) but I am at a loss. any help from the more experienced would be helpful. Do i need to go buy some more resin and try again or should i run it for a few more hours???

 

thanks

 

matt

Share this post


Link to post
Guest Paul

Are you using a RO system matt

Share this post


Link to post
koopmaster

how do you figure that out? its brand new was sealed at the beginning of the week

Share this post


Link to post
Guest badbusdriver

I am not an expert on r/o systems, but dont they take a bit of time to, in effect, 'run in'?. A windy pal of mine has a static system in his garage with a small r/o unit. The water out the tap here is about 190ppm, and i seem to remember him leaving it going over***ht. When we 1st got it going, the water was coming through at about 50ppm!, but gradually it started coming down and eventually settled at around 10ppm. But if the resin isnt making any difference to the ppm then something is clearly wrong, maybe the vessel is plumbed in wrong?, or maybe you dont have enough water pressure? (although if that were the case i would expect your r/o system not to be working either), or you have some duff resin? (i dont know if that is likely though, its certainly never happened to me).

Share this post


Link to post
James

I presume every RO system has a 'break in' point where everything will settle down. If nothing changes though I would definitely recommend using a booster pump.

 

 

---

I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?brcrdm

Share this post


Link to post
koopmaster

Sorry I should have mentioned that it has a booster pump already. I pushed the membrane all the way in as per instructed. I think I am going to drain it and re seat the filters.

Share this post


Link to post
chip

what's the reading after ro only? if it's around 10 ish you may just need to tighten the housing on the di to prevent ro water infiltrating through without going through the di, it's happened to me, even tough water was'nt leaking out of the housing the di was'nt tight enough to prevent infiltration. hand tight was'nt enough, needed another quarter turn

Share this post


Link to post
koopmaster

I took the pipe of the back of the resin canister and measured the TDS and it went down to 10 so I would assume the resin is not working. or more accurately I have not put it in correctly. its basically going into the resin canister at 10 and coming out at 10 so I found the problem now just need to fix it.


Chip I will give it a go and update in half a hour


Ok, so took the resin canister off and gave it a shake and put it back on with the black rubber at the top (same as before) and tightened all the canisters as HARD as possible with that tightner thing they give you. so going to run it for 10 minutes and check.

Share this post


Link to post
Guest Paul

I think you should take what badbusdriver said into consideration, give it a good run and see what happens

Share this post


Link to post
Guest DoubleACleaningServices

i had a similar issue with mine and it still struggles to get to zero! it was out the ro at about 10-12 and out the di at around 8 or 9 or a while now its about 1 or 2 with fresh virgin resin.

 

i think it may need a bigger di to be honest thats my plan and a booster pump as i haven't got one yet.

Share this post


Link to post
simon

can you test your water tds after the ro & before it goes to your resin, im sorry i dont know anything about ro's but i'd of thought water of 170 would come out at 0 through new resin

Share this post


Link to post
whostolemyhair

I had this problem too. I got mine from John Hewitt at red hat diving and the instructions that came with it implied that I unscrew the bottom off the di canister (there was still sponge to keep the resin in) before fitting. The tds stayed at around 15 both before and after the di and I spent the next hour trying to work out what the problem could be. I eventually realised that with the bottom off the canister, the canister formed a seal against the bottom of the housing thus the water wasn't flowing through the resin but being forced out instead, bypassing the resin. I screwed the bottom back on and hey presto, problem solved! What a dimwit I know but that's what the instructions implied. I mention this just in case you are doing the same, perhaps there is a fellow numpty out there.

Share this post


Link to post
koopmaster

thats who i bought my system from, I am sure its the di canister now, I have taken it out abbout 6 times and put it back in (black seal top) and it still not dropping my tds. it just sits at 10. I am sure its not sealing and therefore the water is going round the resin. the bottom cap (yellow one) is tight and I left the foam thing in.

 

I think i either need a second black rubber or a new canister...... at a loss if that does not fix it.

Share this post


Link to post
Alex Gardiner

A new 100gpd system will typically need an hour to run in and be flushed through before trying to produce water. After the hours run in time you can safely connect the DI stage.

 

What you will have probably done is to have used the DI capacity with the initial flush through.

 

What is the size of the DI stage? If it is a small 10" type canister then it will have been used up very quickly. At an RO output of about 10ppm it will last for about 1,600 litres of water on average. The best advice I can give is to put as large a DI stage on your system as you can. If you use a 7litre DI vessel this figure would rise to over 16,000 litres per change.

 

So to summarise the first thing you need to do is to buy some new resin and refill your canister. You can think about upgrading to a larger canister for future use.

Share this post


Link to post
whostolemyhair

thats who i bought my system from, I am sure its the di canister now, I have taken it out abbout 6 times and put it back in (black seal top) and it still not dropping my tds. it just sits at 10. I am sure its not sealing and therefore the water is going round the resin. the bottom cap (yellow one) is tight and I left the foam thing in.

 

I think i either need a second black rubber or a new canister...... at a loss if that does not fix it.

 

Forgot to mention that I needed a second rubber seal at the top too. Problem was solved after bottom cap put back on and a second seal added. It's a good feeling when the tds meter reads zero after all the troubles. Get back to John Hewitt if you dont manage to sort it, he's very good and I'm sure he'll be able to help.

Share this post


Link to post
koopmaster

Well my TDS is now at 2 and falling. I needed a second rubber.... all that stressing for a little rubber :D

Share this post


Link to post
koopmaster

Thanks, going to buy the backpack at the end of the month and start wfp cleaning, It should be a lot faster

Share this post


Link to post
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.