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cheapncheerful

Its.....sixty quids....



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Dave B

I had a play with it all for a few days and now back in the loft

Bleedin women

Might put it all up for sale

The 1210s and vinyl are here to stay though

Was looking at what my stuff it worth the other day and have a little fortune here

 

Was thinking of buying and selling again as that's how i got most of it

Boot sales etc are surprisingly good places to come across what some people thinks crap

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Jimroot

I'd love to find a Roland or any early gear like that. I'm lucky I've got a massive tall half converted loft with velux windows, just needs a rad and power points and I can make it my den, already got dart board and score case ready, just need an armchair and mini fridge, my hi fi setup... I will be very happy left alone up there. Wife says will be my eldests bedroom one day but I think they can all share. A room, maybe my wife can share with em too

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Dave B

I wanted it all in the spare room but my niece is moving back in next month for 4 or 5 months while she saves a deposit for a mortgage

I am definitely considering selling and doing a bit of wheeling and dealing as i know enough about it to know what i am selling and what is a bargain

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Jimroot

Extreme stuff. I bought a wave station vector synth a few years ago for about forty quid, thousands back in the day. Funny how some stuff that was thousands is now a few bob, and some cheaters but rarer stuff is trust fund bounty. A lot of my fave artists built up their collections as they went along, and depending what they had, they made certain music. It's such an interesting thing to do. But I struggled a bit with the technical side, midi etc, I just multi track and live take, then mix and edit, and that has massive limits with electro music it sounds a bit 'dead' after I'd say

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rshandyman
I just got the porcupine for now, and another £80 of stuff. I'm sure I'll have to do another order soon anyway.

 

With the pole straps, I was thinking more about a carry sling to safely get the pole to the top of the ladder rather than van store issue

what do you mean by:'get the pole to the top of the ladder' why you want take them up?

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Dave B

It's not that hard with the old stuff

You use the ms100 or the drum synth (909) or similar to sync the rest

No computers needed

As long as they are all connected properly the 1 bit of kit times the rest and you just have a play around

I have a soundcraft notepad mixer which is newish and small but does the job and bob's your uncle

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Jimroot

The pro gutter is used laterally from the top of the ladder? So it's quite an awkward tool to get up there

 

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Jimroot

I usually get all my stuff played to a reasonable sync then do 90% of the work post recording, it's only a hassle if there's difficult parts that I can't break down, so,etimes it works really well. But im sure if I had the time I'd have got some better methods and maybe even got something like this...

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Nah ;-)

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Smurf

When clearing gutters by pole with a pro gutter tool on the end sometimes rather than carrying up the ladder I tend to full extend the pole first and rest it on the ladder hooked over a rung so the pole won't go anyware. Then I climb the ladder as normal and pull the pole up afterwards. Mind you I use an ankalad & microlite standoff on the roof tiles which makes it a very stable ladder platform to work from.

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Jimroot

That's lateral thinking, and working ;-). A stray gust of wind, a zephyr from Coventry or sirocco from Devon perhaps, may knock it onto your head though? Will let you know how I get on building the 'gutter sling' ;-)

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Smurf

Here is an example of what I mean as the progutter tool is hooked over the rung

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I tend not to use harris poles now as I find my old wfp is longer and the clamps are quicker and easier to use.

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Jimroot

Setting up my 'bracelad' today. Will try the hook and climb method, it's probably another area I've over thought out

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Jimroot

My nickname for the brace I got smurf, like your ankalad but it's called a brace.

 

On a side note, I've read 44mm guttervvac poles are better than 51mm as there more suction and easier to get into places, I was thinking before the wider the better to get more pieces but I guess suction would drop over surface, or air, area

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Smurf

I've not tried the smaller 44mm gutervac poles myself so can't really comment.

 

However when having to use ladders on badly blocked roof valley corners etc I do sometimes attach a smaller size length of suction hose with a crevice nozzle that is lighter to take up my ladder set up to so to break up and suck the sludge out especially if the gap is tiny which a lot of properties around my way are due to tile overhang.

 

Some corners are easier to do that way (what I call combo method) especially clearing the gutter corners to clear blockages under lead flashing than trying to vac it out from the ground which is near impossible to do. Also it's possible to damage guttering/corner joints if too much force is used.

 

I've also found to bungee the hose to one of the top rungs of the ladder which makes the suction hose more manageable as the weight is taken off the length of hose going up to the roofline so the length I use is a lot lighter.

 

Whilst I'm up there I will also clear the roof valleys too by pole and progutter tool if they need doing.

 

Regarding large sods, broken mortar, tiles etc I bag up rather than using a bucket.

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Jimroot

Good tips smurf.

 

Sounds like it's worth getting a long hose for those types of job.

 

I've noticed so many vans around with guttering as part of their offerings, I wonder if there will be any pickings left for me.

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Smurf

I don't worry about competition as there are loads offering gutter clearing around my area too but that doesn't stop me gaining work.

 

I'm not that cheap either so just goes to show not all ppl go with the cheapest as they want it done properly and more importantly safely too.

 

I could turn up at a house with just a ladder like so many do and charge £25 for a quickie that most of the ones I've seen have not been done properly. Therefore I much prefer to offer a professional service and charge what I call a reasonable rate for a dangerous job.

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Jimroot

i think where im trying to erect is too narrow for my trials. I couldn't use the three ladder sections either as the ladder would have scratched or tapped a window on the way up, or if u did it in 'free space' I may have lost control of it

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Smurf

Is that a slate roof? If so best if possible to avoid putting the microlite standoff on slate tiles anyway as most slate tiles are very weak.

 

If you want to extend the ladder above the roofline and you’re not going to step off onto the roof first stick the microlite so it's fitted on the top rung of the ladder when it's on the ground. Then position the ladder roughly where you want it to be an either extend it a bit more if need be. With the ladder held in the upright position facing the wall extend the top section as high as you can comfortably reach. Then extend the middle section high enough paying attention it clearing the gutters, overhead cables, sat dishes etc rest the ladder gently on the roof preferably right to the back of the second tile in. You now can adjust the ladder properly to get the right angle and check the standoff in the right position and last of all set up the brace legs.

 

It will take a bit of getting use to but here is some example pic of a similar style property I get quite often as they always seem to get blocked by the window and start overflowing down the wall.

 

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That job was done on lethal slippery decking too but the ankalad & microlite set up that way the ladder was rock solid.:)

 

Obviously the last pic the bottom of the top section used on the flat roof bit was against the wall:D

 

Hope this helps?

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