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Best sealer

HI LADS WHATS THE BEST SEALERTHAT Everybody uses for driveways and block paving thanks Gordo

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Hello Gordon,as no one has replied - I've said this elsewhere on other posts but in my opinion the best for stabilising block paving jointing sand in terms of performance and value for money - and earning potential is Resiblock Trade RESIBLOCK Trade - Buy Trade All-Purpose Paving Sealer Direct Now. View RESIBLOCK Trade Product Details & Purchase Trade

It's relatively cheap at just over 20 quid / 5 litres and there's no better stabilising sealer that I know of for that price.

It dries clear . Is a one coat system and sprayable so both reduce time spent doing the job and one coat reduces cost as less product required

 
Hello Gordon,as no one has replied - I've said this elsewhere on other posts but in my opinion the best for stabilising block paving jointing sand in terms of performance and value for money - and earning potential is Resiblock Trade RESIBLOCK Trade - Buy Trade All-Purpose Paving Sealer Direct Now. View RESIBLOCK Trade Product Details & Purchase Trade
It's relatively cheap at just over 20 quid / 5 litres and there's no better stabilising sealer that I know of for that price.

It dries clear . Is a one coat system and sprayable so both reduce time spent doing the job and one coat reduces cost as less product required
Many thanks for your help

In replying. Gordon

 
Many thanks for your helpIn replying. Gordon
Many thanks for your helpIn replying. Gordon
You're welcome mate....and bearing in mind that this time of year I'm doing at least 100 sqm of block paving per week every week and upto 350-400sqm in busiest weeks so far this year. So it's not like it's something I've sprayed about once or twice and think it's great cos never used anything else.

At customers request I've used the other leading brands (or more recognised anyway) - Thompsons , Smartseal , Liberon , DIY store own brands , various dodgy types off ebay etc.

Everbuild is good , screwfix no nonsense is good and great value (2 coat system though) but Trade is numero uno for me...performance,price and ease and speed of use.

 
The main thing to establish is how recently. By rights you shouldn't mix n match any sealers and in an ideal world the correct procedure would be to find out what sealer was used , when and then contact the relevant technical department of the company whose product you want to use or the company whose sealer was used previously. I'll save you the bother because replies from previous company will be 'keep using our stuff because we don't know about compatibility' and the new company will say only safe option is to strip the old sealer.

Stripping sealer is very expensive,time consuming and all round aggravation. Specialists products are required and are more expensive than the sealer! But that's what you should do.

The problems arise from mixing sealer types ie water based,solvent,acryllic and polyurethane.I'm no chemist and don't pretend to know whu this is a problem other than the different chemicals used.

The other big issue is if recently sealed by a decent sealer then it will prevent the new one from being absorbed into the paving and it will just lay on the surface and bubble = little white bubbles appear like bubble wrap.

This u do not want cos then will have to be stripped.

In practice the vast majority of people have got no idea if or when previously sealed and if it was what product was used. In this case I proceed on the basis that it's not been sealed or if it was it was long enough ago for no residue to remain and affect new sealer. I've never had a problem - but it's up to u if u want to do the same.

If the customer knows what was used and in last 2 or 3 years then I always advise them of potential issues and that safest way to proceed is with the same product used before. I've got one coming up un Wembley next week with exact same situation and he's now re-ordered smartseal and I'll just use that instead.Any increase in costs is the customer's problem and if needs 2 coats and roller application then u may also want to charge for the extra time and labour.

If in doubt and u know the old product just stick with it to be safe.

But practically u will rarely get that info just proceed as u planned and start with a small test area if u want to double check it is being properly absorbed.

 
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Been called to strip two bodged layers of paint from a imprint drive. 140 sqm. Cost of stripper alone for this job is over £750. (Thats a literral cost) Two days to strip it properly. Another day to reseal it properly. All told it's just over £3k to restore this one. Will post some pics of the process.

20170428_135043.jpg

 
The main thing to establish is how recently. By rights you shouldn't mix n match any sealers and in an ideal world the correct procedure would be to find out what sealer was used , when and then contact the relevant technical department of the company whose product you want to use or the company whose sealer was used previously. I'll save you the bother because replies from previous company will be 'keep using our stuff because we don't know about compatibility' and the new company will say only safe option is to strip the old sealer.Stripping sealer is very expensive,time consuming and all round aggravation. Specialists products are required and are more expensive than the sealer! But that's what you should do.

The problems arise from mixing sealer types ie water based,solvent,acryllic and polyurethane.I'm no chemist and don't pretend to know whu this is a problem other than the different chemicals used.

The other big issue is if recently sealed by a decent sealer then it will prevent the new one from being absorbed into the paving and it will just lay on the surface and bubble = little white bubbles appear like bubble wrap.

This u do not want cos then will have to be stripped.

In practice the vast majority of people have got no idea if or when previously sealed and if it was what product was used. In this case I proceed on the basis that it's not been sealed or if it was it was long enough ago for no residue to remain and affect new sealer. I've never had a problem - but it's up to u if u want to do the same.

If the customer knows what was used and in last 2 or 3 years then I always advise them of potential issues and that safest way to proceed is with the same product used before. I've got one coming up un Wembley next week with exact same situation and he's now re-ordered smartseal and I'll just use that instead.Any increase in costs is the customer's problem and if needs 2 coats and roller application then u may also want to charge for the extra time and labour.

If in doubt and u know the old product just stick with it to be safe.

But practically u will rarely get that info just proceed as u planned and start with a small test area if u want to double check it is being properly absorbed.
A quick tip is once you cleaned a small test area and it's dry sprinkle some water from a watering can on it to simulate the rain. If the surface is somewhat 'repellant' then there is still life in the old sealer and a general clean should suffice.

 
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