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First Bash at WFP a success

Bart90

Well-known member
Messages
649
Location
West Midlands
Well guys, I finished early from my trad round today and put the gardiner backpack & pole to use.  Got to say really impressed with it.  It was a first clean on my parents to trial it out and they came up good.  A few questions from my first go - 

I used that gardiner vid on basic WFP techinque; basically, scrub across the top, then clean the window and rinse.  Worked well.  Is that the best method? 

Water.  I used about 35 litres.  I found it really annoying going back to the backpack to switch it off considering I'm holding the extended pole in one hand with water spraying everywhere.   Any tips on water saving would be appreciated.  I've done some research and uni valve seems a good option.  Do you guys use them and what's your experience like? 

 
A search on Univalve will bring up lots of threads.

We use one with our Gardiner backpack.

Is that the best method - Yes. Alex has been cleaning windows with wfp for a long long time.

 
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A search on Univalve will bring up lots of threads.

We use one with our Gardiner backpack.

Is that the best method - Yes. Alex has been cleaning windows with wfp for a long long time.
As it was described as the basic method I wondered what the more advanced or better methods might be.  But it worked for me,  so all good there  :2_thumbs_up_-_animated:

 
Water.  I used about 35 litres.  I found it really annoying going back to the backpack to switch it off considering I'm holding the extended pole in one hand with water spraying everywhere.   Any tips on water saving would be appreciated.  I've done some research and uni valve seems a good option.  Do you guys use them and what's your experience like? 
as you get used to it you will use less, plus you will end up tweaking the flow rate, which will save more water. A univalve will save even more, its my next purchase.

 
You will get faster once you stop bashing into the brickwork on your sideway movements  :1f609: With practice you will get better control of the pole, this will speed you up, reduce your water usage and make water saving less important.

 
Well guys, I finished early from my trad round today and put the gardiner backpack & pole to use.  Got to say really impressed with it.  It was a first clean on my parents to trial it out and they came up good.  A few questions from my first go - 
 
I used that gardiner vid on basic WFP techinque; basically, scrub across the top, then clean the window and rinse.  Worked well.  Is that the best method? 
 
Water.  I used about 35 litres.  I found it really annoying going back to the backpack to switch it off considering I'm holding the extended pole in one hand with water spraying everywhere.   Any tips on water saving would be appreciated.  I've done some research and uni valve seems a good option.  Do you guys use them and what's your experience like? 
The Univalve all the way, after the second day of wfp and using tons of water I paid my 30 quid and bought one.and it's saved loads of H2o. The only thing is every now and again I have to tighten up the clamps when it gets a bit leaky.
 
I broke my univalve by walking on it lol

Gardiners flowvalve in the middle of my pole hose and chuck the hose over my shoulder

It is always right by my hand to turn on and off

 
Univalve on 3 poles, gardiner gooseneck on my clx4 and gardiner  flow valve on my 6' pole same as Dave B this pole.

 
Univalve will save u tons of water , one of the best wfp products iv bought


Sent from my iPhone using Window Cleaning Forums

 
The Univalve is a fantastic piece of kit, being new to the game it has helped me save water... sort of. Found the hose clamp with the inner ring gives a better seal. I've also found the Gardiner angle adapter with swivel attachment made things a lot easier and quicker - definitely recommend.

 
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Today I've used wfp for some actual customers windows.  Just need some more advice:

1)  Overall came out good but I was getting a line of spotting right from the of the top of the glass running down to the middle.  It wasn't that noticeable but I picked up on it as I inspected them afterwards.

2) Leaded - Got spotting (more noticeable batches  at the bottom sections of glass.)

3) On the final normal window i did I got a 'milky' run/drip right down the window from the top of the glass/where it meets the rubber.  Looked awful so i polished it off with a microfibre.

Any advice on this would be great.....

And one final thing... if windows are open and you can't fully shut them, is it ok to clean them without getting water in the house?

 
Lines from the top down means you are soaking the frame while rinsing or cleaning the top frame and not letting it drip dry before doing the glass

Try cleaning the top frame then the top frame of the next window then going back to the previous one to do the rest of the frames and glass

Once experienced you will know how long to leave it

I do the top frames and then it dries enough by the time i have done the rest and the glass

Milky residue is from oxidised frames usually

Give the top a real good scrub the first time and then rinse it and when the water coming off changes to clear you know it is fine

Sometimes it takes a couple of cleans to sort the problem but then it is sweet

It is from years of sunlight oxidising the upvc which creates a chalky coating

As for leaded it shouldn't spot and if it is at the bottom suggests it needs a better rinse as the dirty water is sitting on the bottom of the glass

Well done mate for getting stuck in

It all gets a lot easier and quicker with time

Once you get used to it you save a load of water also

I can do at least 2 average 3 beds with 25l nowadays 

Was a learning curve after 24 years trad when i started though 

 
Lines from the top down means you are soaking the frame while rinsing or cleaning the top frame and not letting it drip dry before doing the glass

Try cleaning the top frame then the top frame of the next window then going back to the previous one to do the rest of the frames and glass

Once experienced you will know how long to leave it

I do the top frames and then it dries enough by the time i have done the rest and the glass

Milky residue is from oxidised frames usually

Give the top a real good scrub the first time and then rinse it and when the water coming off changes to clear you know it is fine

Sometimes it takes a couple of cleans to sort the problem but then it is sweet

It is from years of sunlight oxidising the upvc which creates a chalky coating

As for leaded it shouldn't spot and if it is at the bottom suggests it needs a better rinse as the dirty water is sitting on the bottom of the glass

Well done mate for getting stuck in

It all gets a lot easier and quicker with time

Once you get used to it you save a load of water also

I can do at least 2 average 3 beds with 25l nowadays 

Was a learning curve after 24 years trad when i started though 
Cheers mate for that.  Biggest change for me in 9 years and so much to take in; I find myself eating breakfast with videos of  gardiners 25 minute 'brush guide' or wagga's hydrophobic glass demo's ...... but I know it will pay off if i stick at it. 

 
Today I've used wfp for some actual customers windows.  Just need some more advice:

1)  Overall came out good but I was getting a line of spotting right from the of the top of the glass running down to the middle.  It wasn't that noticeable but I picked up on it as I inspected them afterwards.

2) Leaded - Got spotting (more noticeable batches  at the bottom sections of glass.)

3) On the final normal window i did I got a 'milky' run/drip right down the window from the top of the glass/where it meets the rubber.  Looked awful so i polished it off with a microfibre.

Any advice on this would be great.....

And one final thing... if windows are open and you can't fully shut them, is it ok to clean them without getting water in the house?


1/ The rubber seal holds water, then drips it out shortly after, youll notice it when working if you look, the solution is to quickly wipe it dry or avoid the top seal with your spray of water (lot quicker than it sounds) or if you have two top openers below a lower pane you sometimes get a drip from between the top openers down the lower one, again dry off with a cloth, if its a top window flick the brush dry and swipe of excess water from the opener/seal above ( again this in practice is a lot quicker than it sounds as you do it on auto pilot)

2/ Give them a real good scrub, real good scrub, then rinse, dirt will be collecting under the lead and then spotting around it. Be carefull when scrubbing hard you dont lift the lead, go horizontal when scrubbing not in the direction of the lead (stuck on stuff) or it can lift and snap off before youve had chance to push it back down .

3/ Not actually worked out what this "milky" substance is but clean very well on a first clean and it should be vastly reduced in future.

I clean them whilst they are open, you get pretty good at controlling your pole after a while, it helps a lot you have  good non flexy pole like an slx for example.

 
Practice and get used to the technique you find most comfortable. Once your technique and precision is there then the speed will come. Iv been going for 4 months now wfp and im only just getting to the speed im happy with.

Biggest thing that has helped me save water weirdly is actually turning up the flow rate to 70-80 (i use digital controller so am not sure what that would be equivalent to on other controllers), due to much faster and powerful rinsing you save a load of time hence the water is flowing for much less time. Dont try to rinse all little bits off the frames, flick them off with your brush, saves water and time.

Precision in terms of when you start on a window, using the method youve seen on alex gardiners video scrubbing top of frame first, when youve done that bit i find using the jet from top left to top right use the jet to flush out all the dirt sitting on top frame/top opener, this stops the **** from dripping onto your nice clean window half hour after you gone. If youve got lots of first cleans its a pain in the **** but its when you get onto the maintenece cleans you will see your speed increase.

Definately get yourself a univalve. Unbeatable. Save loads of water between windows/going from the front to back of house, a few litres saved on each house soon adds up

 
Lots of spotting is often down to not rinsing enough.

Totally agree with pureshine regards working with high flow. I find that the standard backpack pumps have to be going flat out to give me anything like a good enough flow to get a good rinse.  

 
As you are using a Gardiners brush search for Clarkes 1mm welding tips on http://ww.ebay.co.uk these fit easily and repalce the fitted jets and will give a more powerful rinse at a lower flow rate I have my backpack on less than half. A higher a flow rate will  have a adverse affect in some cases its about finding the right balance .

 
As you are using a Gardiners brush search for Clarkes 1mm welding tips on http://ww.ebay.co.uk these fit easily and repalce the fitted jets and will give a more powerful rinse at a lower flow rate I have my backpack on less than half. A higher a flow rate will  have a adverse affect in some cases its about finding the right balance .
wouldnt mind a go, do you have a link to the ones you bought

 

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