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Jordiebarrett

Booster pump auto shut off



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Jordiebarrett

Hi, we recently bought a booster pump to go with our ro system. It's massively improved production rate and drops the end tds too, win win. However the pump we bought doesn't automatically shut off.

 

Meaning when our float valve rises up it shuts the membranes down and the flow of water put the pump sits there running. We have added a wall timer set to 8am till 8pm which reduces the on time, however if the holding tanks are full it'll maybe sit for 12 hours running dry.

 

We try to switch it off when we know the tanks are full and we won't use RO for a couple of days but then we find it gets missed and we produce a higher tds water without it.

 

Is there something that can be added to make the pump run as a auto on off pump like the system we added to the membranes? Or is there another solution?

 

This is the pump we have... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271391077970

 

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RhysEvans88

Could put a micro switch on the float valve to switch off when met. But also need a relay for that to work to switch 230v off to pump


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AGlassAct

Something like this : eBay 201548972887


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spruce
On 08/10/2017 at 22:15, Jordiebarrett said:

 

Hi, we recently bought a booster pump to go with our ro system. It's massively improved production rate and drops the end tds too, win win. However the pump we bought doesn't automatically shut off.

 

Meaning when our float valve rises up it shuts the membranes down and the flow of water put the pump sits there running. We have added a wall timer set to 8am till 8pm which reduces the on time, however if the holding tanks are full it'll maybe sit for 12 hours running dry.

 

We try to switch it off when we know the tanks are full and we won't use RO for a couple of days but then we find it gets missed and we produce a higher tds water without it.

 

Is there something that can be added to make the pump run as a auto on off pump like the system we added to the membranes? Or is there another solution?

 

This is the pump we have... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271391077970

 

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At one time Gardiner Pole System did a product called Smart Water and that was a float switch, solenoid valve and booster pump controller. They don't do them any more.

 

I would be inclined to have a go at botching one together. But I would first ask Gardiners if their auto shutoff valve assembly will support a second relay coil.

 

Gardiners sell an auto cutoff valve.

http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pump-hose/pump-controllers/system-controllers/liquid-logic-trade-autofill.html

 

The top right hand side of the diagram shows a solenoid valve. That fits on the pipe work before the r/o. Its a 'normally closed' solenoid valve meaning that it needs power to keep the water flowing. When the power stops the solenoid valve automatically closes.

 

Now you need a 12v headlamp relay. They are available from motor factors. Here's an example from Ebay

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Truck-Auto-Automotive-DC-12V-40A-40-AMP-SPST-Relays-Socket-4Pin-4-Wire/401210412903?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D46150%26meid%3Dd3bbca65bf5b45e0ae1a7fc14f634fee%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172354111958&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

It comes with a connector lead so thats even better. On the relay you will see 4 pins. They are numbered; 85 and 86 are the coil and 30 and 87 you will wire into the wires going to the booster pump.

 

Lets start.

You will need to remove a bit of insulation off both wires going to the solenoid valve as you are going to splice the 2 wires from terminals 85 and 86 of the relay. (You could cut them both and use strip connectors for this.) When the tank needs filling the float switch will activate and will power up the solenoid valve to open allowing water through to the r/o. That power will also energise the relay coil.

 

Now you go to your booster pump, seperate the red and black wires for a short length and cut the red wire. You will now join the wire end that is now free from your power pack to the wire going to terminal 30. The wire from terminal 87 will join at the other end of the red wire that goes to the pump motor.

 

When the relay is activated it will switch on the booster pump. When your tank is full the water to the r/o is cut (no ball valve now required) and the power to the booster pump is cut as well.

 

.

Edited by spruce

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H and W
 
At one time Gardiner Pole System did a product called Smart Water and that was a float switch, solenoid valve and booster pump controller. They don't do them any more.
 
I would be inclined to have a go at botching one together. But I would first ask Gardiners if their auto shutoff valve assembly will support a second relay coil.
 
Gardiners sell an auto cutoff valve.
http://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pump-hose/pump-controllers/system-controllers/liquid-logic-trade-autofill.html
 
The top right hand side of the diagram shows a solenoid valve. That fits on the pipe work before the r/o. Its a 'normally closed' solenoid valve meaning that it needs power to keep the water flowing. When the power stops the solenoid valve automatically closes.
 
Now you need a 12v headlamp relay. They are available from motor factors. Here's an example from Ebay
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Truck-Auto-Automotive-DC-12V-40A-40-AMP-SPST-Relays-Socket-4Pin-4-Wire/401210412903?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D46150%26meid%3Dd3bbca65bf5b45e0ae1a7fc14f634fee%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172354111958&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
 
It comes with a connector lead so thats even better. On the relay you will see 4 pins. They are numbered; 85 and 86 are the coil and 30 and 87 you will wire into the wires going to the booster pump.
 
Lets start.
You will need to remove a bit of insulation off both wires going to the solenoid valve as you are going to splice the 2 wires from terminals 85 and 86 of the relay. (You could cut them both and use strip connectors for this.) When the tank needs filling the float switch will activate and will power up the solenoid valve to open allowing water through to the r/o. That power will also energise the relay coil.
 
Now you go to your booster pump, seperate the red and black wires for a short length and cut the red wire. You will now join the wire end that is now free from your power pack to the wire going to terminal 30. The wire from terminal 87 will join at the other end of the red wire that goes to the pump motor.
 
When the relay is activated it will switch on the booster pump. When your tank is full the water to the r/o is cut (no ball valve now required) and the power to the booster pump is cut as well.
 
.

Hi@spruce do you have any photos or diagrams for this set up please?


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spruce
6 hours ago, H and W said:


Hi@spruce do you have any photos or diagrams for this set up please?


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No I don't unfortunately and Gardiners aren't doing that 12v float switch and solenoid either now.

 

But what you are doing is tapping off the power to the solenoid valve and using it to power the relay coil throught terminals 85 and 86 on the relay. They are clearly marked.

 

You then need to cut the power going to your pump from your booster pump and rejoin them through terminals 30 and 87.

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H and W
No I don't unfortunately and Gardiners aren't doing that 12v float switch and solenoid either now.
 
But what you are doing is tapping off the power to the solenoid valve and using it to power the relay coil throught terminals 85 and 86 on the relay. They are clearly marked.
 
You then need to cut the power going to your pump from your booster pump and rejoin them through terminals 30 and 87.

I am using this RO set up from Vyair

https://www.vyair.com/continuous-operation-4040-reverse-osmosis.html

And this auto shut off kit from Pure Freedom.

https://purefreedom.co.uk/product/auto-shut-off-kit/

Would what you are explaining work for this?

I have messaged you@spruce with my number if it’s easier to explain.

Thanks DJ


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spruce
14 minutes ago, H and W said:


I am using this RO set up from Vyair

https://www.vyair.com/continuous-operation-4040-reverse-osmosis.html

And this auto shut off kit from Pure Freedom.

https://purefreedom.co.uk/product/auto-shut-off-kit/

Would what you are explaining work for this?

I have messaged you@spruce with my number if it’s easier to explain.

Thanks DJ


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That suggestion wasn't intended for a 4040 r/o to use a booster pump. The auto shut off was intended for a small 450GPD r/o that would use a 24v Aquatec booster pump. It was to replicate the Smart Controller that Gardiners used to do at one time.

 

You need to contact PF and ask them if that have an auto shut off system for their 4040 booster pump.

 

There is the option of an electronic cut off that Machine Mart and several others do the senses a cut in water flow through the contoller and switches the pump off.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un/

 

Xline did a booster pump that incorporated this type of controller but its no longer on their site.

Machine mart do a complete booster pump.

 

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cbm240e-1in-multi-stage-230v-booster-pum/

 

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H and W
 
That suggestion wasn't intended for a 4040 r/o to use a booster pump. The auto shut off was intended for a small 450GPD r/o that would use a 24v Aquatec booster pump. It was to replicate the Smart Controller that Gardiners used to do at one time.
 
You need to contact PF and ask them if that have an auto shut off system for their 4040 booster pump.
 
There is the option of an electronic cut off that Machine Mart and several others do the senses a cut in water flow through the contoller and switches the pump off.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-epc800-electronic-water-pump-control-un/
 
Xline did a booster pump that incorporated this type of controller but its no longer on their site.
Machine mart do a complete booster pump.
 
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cbm240e-1in-multi-stage-230v-booster-pum/
 

Cheers. Think I’ll take a look at the electric cut off as an option.

DJ


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Jordiebarrett

We have found a solution to this problem which may be slightly over engineered. I'll get some photos and annotate them and upload them.

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