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Liquidator leaving lines

Bobd

Member
Messages
95
Location
Leven
I've  had the liquidator for a few weeks now but only use it for a few hours at a time due to it leaving lines on the windows while fanning and it only happens on the 1 side. I keep trying it because of the money I have spent on it and keep hoping that it will work properly for me but it is driving me crazy. Is this a problem that anyone else has had and have you managed to fix it? 

 
I've  had the liquidator for a few weeks now but only use it for a few hours at a time due to it leaving lines on the windows while fanning and it only happens on the 1 side. I keep trying it because of the money I have spent on it and keep hoping that it will work properly for me but it is driving me crazy. Is this a problem that anyone else has had and have you managed to fix it? 
what rubber have you got in it? I use ettore master soft rubber, no problems

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Razr seems to be hit or miss for me. Sometimes it's brilliant then for a day or 2 it's poo. I usually put it down to the way I've cut it 

 
Over recent months I’ve discovered that the Excelerator handles CAN (not always) have a touch of ‘slop’ at the pivot point. I bit the bullet, got out a mallet and punch, sat the pivot pin head on an anvil and with gritted teeth reseated the rivet with a few well placed taps. The effect was not subtle. It gave the slightest bit of friction at the pivot (a good thing, as it is much easier to control in hand) with zero slop. The second benefit was that the channel sits with even pressure along its length on the glass and direction change lines seem to be a thing of the past (as long as rubber isn’t excessively worn at the tips). I know a lot of guys use these and the Wags as pole tools only, so integrity at pivot point is not as important, but it has always been my view that for consistent and accurate in hand use it is critical that this is addressed. 

Sorted it with my Wag mods years ago (ignored by manufacturer) and addressed it with the Excelerator during prototype testing (again overlooked). This is one of the reasons I am quite interested in Herman’s prototypes. He appears to have addressed this issue.

 
Over recent months I’ve discovered that the Excelerator handles CAN (not always) have a touch of ‘slop’ at the pivot point. I bit the bullet, got out a mallet and punch, sat the pivot pin head on an anvil and with gritted teeth reseated the rivet with a few well placed taps. The effect was not subtle. It gave the slightest bit of friction at the pivot (a good thing, as it is much easier to control in hand) with zero slop. The second benefit was that the channel sits with even pressure along its length on the glass and direction change lines seem to be a thing of the past (as long as rubber isn’t excessively worn at the tips). I know a lot of guys use these and the Wags as pole tools only, so integrity at pivot point is not as important, but it has always been my view that for consistent and accurate in hand use it is critical that this is addressed. 

Sorted it with my Wag mods years ago (ignored by manufacturer) and addressed it with the Excelerator during prototype testing (again overlooked). This is one of the reasons I am quite interested in Herman’s prototypes. He appears to have addressed this issue.
Can't wait to give it a try

I made one in the past from Herman's vid and it was great as a squeegee handle but i only bodged it to see how it would work and didn't last long

I always meant to make some decent quality ones not just have it pivoting on a self tapping screw lol

 
one little gripe I've found with my excelerator is the now I have the fliq on it seems to have a bit of give from where you change the angle, feels a little loose. As for the swivel I tend to have it locked in hand so can't comment. Is that common due to extra weight or just mine, more noticable at 25 degrees than at 10 or 40, which is a pain as I use 25 in hand

 
one little gripe I've found with my excelerator is the now I have the fliq on it seems to have a bit of give from where you change the angle, feels a little loose. As for the swivel I tend to have it locked in hand so can't comment. Is that common due to extra weight or just mine, more noticable at 25 degrees than at 10 or 40, which is a pain as I use 25 in hand
I find on all my Excelerators there is give at the angle change made more noticeable once Fliq (extra weight) is added. Once again on a pole this is not an issue as once the blade is on the glass the angle is held stable with pressure but in hand although also not a problem once on the glass, the movement is very noticeable moving from pane to pane. Irritated me so much that I butchered my original prototype by setting the angle at 25 degrees and epoxying it :) no movement now...

 
Since changing to Razr red I have noticed lines and also a slight drag when starting with a new rubber (or turning one over), but only for a short time, say one house, I hold it very lightly and it settles down. I've had it just today as it happens, first house then OK.

 
Since changing to Razr red I have noticed lines and also a slight drag when starting with a new rubber (or turning one over), but only for a short time, say one house, I hold it very lightly and it settles down. I've had it just today as it happens, first house then OK.
I find it takes a day or 2 to properly bed in, then fine

 
Try putting a lighter slightly to the ends of the razor red rubbers after cutting them , this will get rid of any lines
Same goes for any other rubbers


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