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Auto shut off valve

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558
Location
Bicester
Just popped out to my van as I noticed my waste water hadn’t slowed down tonight as usual (indicating my tank was nearly full) and the back was flooded. Seems my system has continued to fill past full and the auto shut off valve didn’t kick in. 

Was working fine last night so not sure where I should be checking when it’s light tomorrow. 

Any ideas? It’s a Facelift Phoenix 350 RO+DI. 

Cheers

 
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Just popped out to my van as I noticed my waste water hadn’t slowed down tonight as usual (indicating my tank was nearly full) and the back was flooded. Seems my system has continued to fill past full and the auto shut off valve didn’t kick in. 

Was working fine last night so not sure where I should be checking when it’s light tomorrow. 

Any ideas? It’s a Facelift Phoenix 350 RO+DI. 

Cheers


Is there a fault with the microswitch on/in the tank? It could also be an issue with the float mechanism that operates the microswitch. That would be the first port of call if I were looking for the fault.

 
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How would I check this? Thanks 


The float switch works by supplying power to the solenoid valve to keep it open and allow water to pass to the r/o. As the tank gets full the float level rises to a point that triggers the mini switch in the float valve to cut power to the solenoid valve. (The solenoid valve is a normally off version - it needs power to open it. So when the power is cut the valve automatically closes.)

So I would quickly check to see if the float is working correctly. Open the lid of the tank and stick my hand in and work the float switch to see if there is anything that doesn't feel right - ie bouancy in the float etc. If there is a cable joiner near the float switch, I would disconnect it to put a multimeter across the 2 terminals on the float switch side to see if there is a circuit. With the tank full you shouldn't get a reading as the circuit should be 'open'. If you operate the valve from inside the tank then you should see the multimeter react if everything is working. If the mulitmeter shows that the circuit is continually closed when you manually move the float up and down, then the fault is at the switch.

If its working fine then the issue must be at the solenoid valve. The plunger that operates the valve could have stuck open. A gentle tap with a spanner head could free it.

Its really a process of elimination. Power to the solenoid valve is controlled by a switch. Just think of a light switch. You have power to the switch on the wall but the light bulb won't operate until the switch is switched on. Switch the light switch off and the light bulb goes out. Its exactly the same with the solenoid valve. The solenoid valve will continue to operate until the switch cuts the power.

 
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Hey. Sorry for late reply, I’ve been testing it for a few days and it’s mostly been fine until last night. If I move the float up the water cuts off almost instantly so it is working. The problem I had yesterday is that the tank was full to the brim and the water didn’t shut off until I just touched the float up. So it seems some days there’s not enough of a “push” from the water to cut it off. 

Is is there any way of lowering the float so it shuts off sooner? I only have a small van so there’s not a great deal of space to look inside the tank etc. 

I’ll ring WCW again this afternoon as they did offer to swap out the float - if I can avoid a day trip to Wales for something simple though I’d rather that. 

Thanks

 
Hey. Sorry for late reply, I’ve been testing it for a few days and it’s mostly been fine until last night. If I move the float up the water cuts off almost instantly so it is working. The problem I had yesterday is that the tank was full to the brim and the water didn’t shut off until I just touched the float up. So it seems some days there’s not enough of a “push” from the water to cut it off. 

Is is there any way of lowering the float so it shuts off sooner? I only have a small van so there’s not a great deal of space to look inside the tank etc. 

I’ll ring WCW again this afternoon as they did offer to swap out the float - if I can avoid a day trip to Wales for something simple though I’d rather that. 

Thanks


I think you need to take it out and see what the problem is.

It could be a faulty switch mechanism inside or the float could have a minute hole in it and has filled with some water.  Its also not unknown for plastic to swell in the water and the lever mechanism stick. (Aquadapter experienced that problem with a batch in the early days.) I have no clue what the system is the WCW sell, but some floats do have an adjustment on them. WCW will know. I certainly wouldn't go all that way. It would be cheaper for you to buy another float switch assembly and fit it yourself.

 
I think you need to take it out and see what the problem is.

It could be a faulty switch mechanism inside or the float could have a minute hole in it and has filled with some water.  Its also not unknown for plastic to swell in the water and the lever mechanism stick. (Aquadapter experienced that problem with a batch in the early days.) I have no clue what the system is the WCW sell, but some floats do have an adjustment on them. WCW will know. I certainly wouldn't go all that way. It would be cheaper for you to buy another float switch assembly and fit it yourself.


I got my head in the tank and had a good look around yesterday. The float is working and the circuit is closing and opening as it should once the float is up, but there is on occasion times when the float is up but not quite shutting the water off. 

Heres a pic - I can’t seem to find the same float online to replace it though and don’t want another entire kit fitted for what is most likely just the float. 

Any ideas to where I can find one?

FCD1189D-DCA1-4A84-A1E7-F60BEFB128FF.jpeg

 
If you manually lift the float right up does it completely stop the flow?

If it does then there is a plastic screw where the float joins the metal arm, undo that and slide it lower down the arm and see if this makes a difference

 
If you manually lift the float right up does it completely stop the flow?

If it does then there is a plastic screw where the float joins the metal arm, undo that and slide it lower down the arm and see if this makes a difference
Yes it does stop if I lift it up entirely. -3 here this morning so I’ll put my hands in the water a bit later on! 

Thank you

 
Yes it does stop if I lift it up entirely. -3 here this morning so I’ll put my hands in the water a bit later on! 

Thank you


Don't blame you, it is a chilly start.

If there is a problem with the float or valve you can buy new parts from screwfix. Actually I have an old one I don't use, if you want it you have it for free, just cover postage. That's said postage may be as much as new part

 
Don't blame you, it is a chilly start.

If there is a problem with the float or valve you can buy new parts from screwfix. Actually I have an old one I don't use, if you want it you have it for free, just cover postage. That's said postage may be as much as new part
Much appreciated mate, thank you. 

Dropped van van in to garage for a service so I’ll have a tinker with the float height tomorrow when I do a resin change and see if that helps on Monday eve when I fill again. 

Cheers

 
I got my head in the tank and had a good look around yesterday. The float is working and the circuit is closing and opening as it should once the float is up, but there is on occasion times when the float is up but not quite shutting the water off. 

Heres a pic - I can’t seem to find the same float online to replace it though and don’t want another entire kit fitted for what is most likely just the float. 

Any ideas to where I can find one?

View attachment 12191
On the float there appears to be a screw that holds the float onto the copper/metal bracket. You could unscrew that slightly the move it down the bracket a tad and tighten it up.

or

You could carefully bend the bracket at the top (at the dog's leg) between yours fingers so the float is slightly lower in the tank. (In other words use your thumb and the two fingers closest to your thumb. The 2 fingers will be ontop of the bracket and your thumb underneath. Pushing up on your thumb and down on your fingers should put enough pressure on the bracket to bend it slightly. So what you are doing is slightly straightening the dogs leg.)

What stopping the float switch from switching off sometimes? Is the float ball touching the top of the tank?

Please can you take a photo of the top of the tank where the unit secures to. I'm pretty sure it will be held into place with a nut.

 
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I had a similar problem with my ibc tank. The auto shut off failed and I had a flood around my shed. The temperature here has dropped. I haven’t checked it but it does seem related. I believe it happened once or twice last year and I became more careful (make water in the day while it’s a bit warmer) but it sorted itself out and I forgot until this week.
Dunno if that helps but your not alone


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On the float there appears to be a screw that holds the float onto the copper/metal bracket. You could unscrew that slightly the move it down the bracket a tad and tighten it up.

or

You could carefully bend the bracket at the top (at the dog's leg) between yours fingers so the float is slightly lower in the tank. (In other words use your thumb and the two fingers closest to your thumb. The 2 fingers will be ontop of the bracket and your thumb underneath. Pushing up on your thumb and down on your fingers should put enough pressure on the bracket to bend it slightly. So what you are doing is slightly straightening the dogs leg.)

What stopping the float switch from switching off sometimes? Is the float ball touching the top of the tank?

Please can you take a photo of the top of the tank where the unit secures to. I'm pretty sure it will be held into place with a nut.
Sorry for late reply, went away this weekend and got caught in the snow. 

Yeah, sometimes the water doesn’t stop even with the float hitting the top of the tank. I haven’t had a chance to play around with the screw yet so I’ll lower that at some point tomorrow when it warms up. I’ll also take a picture from inside the tank as best I can (although it’s full of water atm so it might have to be after I’ve got some work in and used some!). 

Cheers Spruce. 

 
The float switch works by supplying power to the solenoid valve to keep it open and allow water to pass to the r/o. As the tank gets full the float level rises to a point that triggers the mini switch in the float valve to cut power to the solenoid valve. (The solenoid valve is a normally off version - it needs power to open it. So when the power is cut the valve automatically closes.)

So I would quickly check to see if the float is working correctly. Open the lid of the tank and stick my hand in and work the float switch to see if there is anything that doesn't feel right - ie bouancy in the float etc. If there is a cable joiner near the float switch, I would disconnect it to put a multimeter across the 2 terminals on the float switch side to see if there is a circuit. With the tank full you shouldn't get a reading as the circuit should be 'open'. If you operate the valve from inside the tank then you should see the multimeter react if everything is working. If the mulitmeter shows that the circuit is continually closed when you manually move the float up and down, then the fault is at the switch.

If its working fine then the issue must be at the solenoid valve. The plunger that operates the valve could have stuck open. A gentle tap with a spanner head could free it.

Its really a process of elimination. Power to the solenoid valve is controlled by a switch. Just think of a light switch. You have power to the switch on the wall but the light bulb won't operate until the switch is switched on. Switch the light switch off and the light bulb goes out. Its exactly the same with the solenoid valve. The solenoid valve will continue to operate until the switch cuts the power.
what on earth would we do without spruce????

 
My IBC overflows sometimes due to swarf in the tank getting stuck on the float. I've got one of those kids fishing nets that I swirl round the tank to catch the swarf. I bought the system from pure freedom, a bit naughty of them not emptying the tank after cutting it imo.

 
My IBC overflows sometimes due to swarf in the tank getting stuck on the float. I've got one of those kids fishing nets that I swirl round the tank to catch the swarf. I bought the system from pure freedom, a bit naughty of them not emptying the tank after cutting it imo.
I only have a van mount so no rain water being harvested and never anything in the tank other than water (oh and ice today haha).

 
OK I eventually managed to loosen the screw holding the float to the arm today and lowered it as far as it can go.  Managed to get half a day in today so I'm filling her up again now - I'll report back if this doesn't work but actively lifting the arm up and down is still shutting off the water inlet so it has to be float related.

Thanks everyone

 
Happy to report the float amendment worked tonight - water level cut off at a much more comfortable level too (not splashing at the very top of the tank). 

Glad it seemed to be something so simple to fix, just hope it stays that way

 
Hi everyone, big fan of the forum very good read well most of the time anyway. Glad you sorted your tank overfill issue @C Rose Cleaning Services.

Following a lot of research I'm finally fitting out my van with the hf5 4040 RO with 2x10" sediment and carbon prefilters.

I'm coming from filling up from a very good friends IBC in 5mins and contributing a small fee to filter maintenance, but the time has come to bite the bullet and become independent as the business continues to grow.

I'm stuck on what 1/2" auto shut off valve can be used to stop the feed to the RO once the tank is full of pure. I'm on a water meter.

I know many windies just do it manually once it's full, but seems a bit wasteful and if left flushing for a prolonged period the RO membrane can be damaged?

I'm keen on finding a 4 way auto shut off valve in 1/2" as the only one I've come across is a 1/4" 4 way auto shut off valve which costs peanuts on eBay.

Look forward to hearing your suggestions.



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