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Pricing soft wash?
- Thread starter Carts69
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Seems a tough question there I asked, let me re phrase... can I charge more for soft washing as apposed to pressure washing regardless of which one is quicker?
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I personally don’t think softwashing is the way to clean drives and paths they are better done with a pressure washer softwashing is for render , pebble dash and k rend properties , that’s how we do it anyway
CleanerWindows
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Pressure washing won't kill organic material (sanitize) as where softwashing will if done correctly so yeah I charge more due to the expense of all the ppe and chems you will need to buy.
Just to clarify PPE make sure you get all this 1st
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Just to clarify PPE make sure you get all this 1st
Sent using the http://Window Cleaning Forums mobile app
Softwashing paths etc is a lot more effective and benz biocidal wash or ddac afterwards will leave a long lasting finish which you can arrange an annual treatment afterwards to keep it clean
Pressure washing is a quick result which will then deteriorate quickly afterwards
Well explained guys..cheers! Mixed views as usual but i appreciate everyone has their own opinion, thanks.
by the way...what’s PPE?
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I agree apply ddack after pressure washing to help slow down re growth but just softwashing patios paths drives without pressure washing it doesn’t wemove the dirt as an example block drive with moss between the bricks softwashing will kill it but it needs removing only way to do that is pressure wash it : I have experimented with my own property softwashing alone is no good as the dirt is left behind , the best solution is a mixture of both , we hypo drives paths etc then pressure wash and then use algo clear pro but this is a cost,y process sometimes the customer doesn’t want to pay that much and they just want it pressure washed it’s up to them as Ime happy to go and do it again in 18 months ?????
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The more flow flow the faster you will clean especially when rinsing 15 ltr is good but 21 is better I have had both , 21 is a lot better pressure is also important but 250 bar @21 ltr per muinet is very good quick and only one pass needed with flat surface cleaner , you can do it with a turbo nozzle but it’s messy and slower and will give you white finger ( numbness) in your hands if using it for long periods , I have both and use fsc for drives ,paths patios decking, etc just don’t use turbo on decking!!!! Then go round the edges with the turbo , or vario nozzle , this is good for rinsing down large areas quickly , if buying a fsc make sure it’s jetted to your washer to get the best performance out of it . Some will say turbo is better and quicker but we don’t find that to be the case if you have an underpowered washer it might not run a fsc very well that’s why some prefer turbo but get a decent washer and fsc comes into its own hope this helps a bit , give Ben Marriot a ring at Rutland pumps he’s very helpful and won’t try the hard sell
CleanerWindows
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PPE.. personal protective equipment.
For yourself and those around you.
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When I was looking at getting a washer I looked at the same machine several people said it’s not possible to get 21 ltr out of a Honda ???? Do t shoot the messenger Ime only repeating what I was told by others : I bought a brigs and Stratton 14 hp v twin 250 bar 21ltr from Ben Marriot Rutland pumps have to say having had a Honda before the Briggs is far superior much more power , quieter running much better on fuel all round a better machine I sold the Honda don’t get me wrong the Honda is ok but there are a lot better things out there , but as always there’s horses for courses depends on the volume of work and type of job being done
ShaneNicholls
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Machine of 21 lpm is far superior that’s for sure , but also make sure you have the relevant water source to keep your pressure high ( take note length of hoses / lances and equipment does lower the pressure slightly ) so I advise you look for a good psi machine to match the high lpm water flow
Soft washing is the low pressure alternative to pressure washing for more fragile exterior surfaces that could be damaged by high powered water. Combined with specialist chemicals , on porous surfaces it gives a deeper, longer lasting clean by killing spores absorbed below the surface. So as has already been said p/w together with the right products can be the best method.
Soft wash started in US and they just used bleach and hypo is basically high strength bleach. Lightning Cleanze is also bleach based and that's what gives it it's cleaning power (albeit somewhat limited compared to hypo). But it has its place. If you're going to use products like this and biocides for the long term benefits then you need to charge more to cover your costs.
Using bleach based products meant soft washing was most effective at dealing with biological stuff like algae/ lichen etc but it has evolved and as far as I'm concernced soft washing can be any type of low pressure cleaning.
It's the deeper cleaning and long term residual effect that sells it to customers and justifies higher prices. Once it is fully explained to customers they usually like the idea but if they don't want to pay for it just jet wash. ... although of course, hypo on its own not only cleans remarkably well but also seems to have the residual effect as well
Soft wash started in US and they just used bleach and hypo is basically high strength bleach. Lightning Cleanze is also bleach based and that's what gives it it's cleaning power (albeit somewhat limited compared to hypo). But it has its place. If you're going to use products like this and biocides for the long term benefits then you need to charge more to cover your costs.
Using bleach based products meant soft washing was most effective at dealing with biological stuff like algae/ lichen etc but it has evolved and as far as I'm concernced soft washing can be any type of low pressure cleaning.
It's the deeper cleaning and long term residual effect that sells it to customers and justifies higher prices. Once it is fully explained to customers they usually like the idea but if they don't want to pay for it just jet wash. ... although of course, hypo on its own not only cleans remarkably well but also seems to have the residual effect as well
When cleaning paths drives etc I always pressure wash first then soft wash to finish off. as for flow there apparently not a lot in it between 21 at 200 bar and 15 at 250 bar but 21 at 250 bar there is a difference I use 15 at 250 bar and it’s does me fine .
Isn't that making work for yourself - doing it twice? Do you actually soft wash it or just apply soft wash chemicals?
I know we all have different ways of doing things but my preferred method is apply the hypo, allow some dwell time and then p/w and it's done. Unless really bad and heavily colonised and in need of more hypo.
It all depends on what I’m cleaning if it’s really bad I’ll do a pre treatment then pw but most of the time i pw first then apply softwash treatment then rince off . I’ve had it we’re you pw a huge area of paving then soft wash but loads of yellow patches pop up everywhere so needs another run over with pw . On sandstone I always pre treat them pw then treat black spot were needed . This system works for me but I’m all for luring and making my day easer it’s always nice too see how others work ?
It's the end result that matters and we've all got our own ways of getting there. It's not a question of a right or wrong way of doing it. As you say, it's good to hear about alternative techniques and I know some people p/w then hypo but personally I always start with the hypo and any lichen still remaining can be finished off with a bit of pressure - sometimes! And that way I know its been thoroughly rinsed and diluted to the extent where I know it's not going to harm lawns/plants etc....but what a fantastic product it is!
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This is the method we use , but I know others do it the other way round , I have tried both ways , but find the quickest way is hypo first , also if you hypo after generally you need a stronger mix as all the rinse water dilutes it further
One thing I’ve struggled with is when a paved area is covered in black spot but the the run off on some go on to slate can’t remember if it’s man made or natural but turns it orange rusty look any product that can be used in this scenario? Not shore biocide will get shot of it over time!
