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Eric Gilliand

Gardiner Spray Bar ...



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Eric Gilliand

OK guys. Come on ‘testers’. Spill the beans. This looks very very compelling...

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TJTOPCAT
OK guys. Come on ‘testers’. Spill the beans. This looks very very compelling...
230D268D-E119-46BA-9AB6-C55AE41C0CFC.thumb.jpeg.f854e447f20c59ef57172030deaf83d1.jpeg
I can recommend the over rinse bar jets, this should be much improved and on par with reach-it and xline rinse bar at a fraction of the cost. [emoji106]

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Mwwindowcleaning

It does look good , Ive got the tucker rinse bar and constructor brush. I’m hoping cos it’s made of plastic the jets don’t smooth over like the constructor rinse bar. Best thing is it’s uk based 🙌🙌🙌

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Jimbo

Never used a rinse bar, I currently have 100' fan jets on my extreme brush, does the rinse bar help with hydrophobic glass? Got the odd few jobs that I just don't get a good rinse on at all

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Eric Gilliand

Absolutely. Can’t impress upon users enough though that a top mounted rinsebar should always be combined with a pivot. On hydrophobic glass turn the brush almost 90° and use the rinse bar vertically. Superb rinse depth on all glass and especially useful on hydrophobic.

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paul alan

Ive been using this on off for around 6 months, its a great bit of kit.

 

I dont use it all the time but it is well suited to some windows, definitely worth having as  part of your arsenal. I have a weekly with about 100+ panes that are roughly 10" by 14" and this rinse bar has cut the time it takes to do In half.

 

I have found that upon checking you can leave "bits" on the glass when rinse baring but that could be down to my technique?? I get the feeling that you need to be quick when rinsing on with the brush to get the brush out of the way of the rinse, if that makes any sense.

 

I have the worst of both worlds where I live as I live in the countryside on the sea front, if the windows are already quite clean it wouldn't be a problem but there's always a lot of spiders webs etc here so I do better with a good flow to push the **** off the glass. 

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Eric Gilliand
31 minutes ago, paul alan said:

Ive been using this on off for around 6 months, its a great bit of kit.

 

I dont use it all the time but it is well suited to some windows, definitely worth having as  part of your arsenal. I have a weekly with about 100+ panes that are roughly 10" by 14" and this rinse bar has cut the time it takes to do In half.

 

I have found that upon checking you can leave "bits" on the glass when rinse baring but that could be down to my technique?? I get the feeling that you need to be quick when rinsing on with the brush to get the brush out of the way of the rinse, if that makes any sense.

 

I have the worst of both worlds where I live as I live in the countryside on the sea front, if the windows are already quite clean it wouldn't be a problem but there's always a lot of spiders webs etc here so I do better with a good flow to push the **** off the glass. 

Thanks for that Paul. Yes, I live in a very similar situation over here in NZ. I find with spray bars that is you have too many holes made up of a small diameter then pressure and water push on the glass is compromised and rinsing can leave a bit of debris behind. My most effective bar has 16 jets but holes opened up to a touch over 1mm. A flood of water on the glass with minimal splash.

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Gasket
Absolutely. Can’t impress upon users enough though that a top mounted rinsebar should always be combined with a pivot. On hydrophobic glass turn the brush almost 90° and use the rinse bar vertically. Superb rinse depth on all glass and especially useful on hydrophobic.


Hi Eric...

As a newbie wfp user can you expand a bit on this ..as I’m struggling with hydrophobic [emoji1303]


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Jordiebarrett


Hi Eric...

As a newbie wfp user can you expand a bit on this ..as I’m struggling with hydrophobic [emoji1303]


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I'm not Eric, but...
Hydrophobic means repentant or hating of water so the water doesn't like to sit on the glass, it beads up and rolls away. Hydrophilic is where the glass loves and doesn't repel water as much so it'll not bead and tends to sheet down the glass giving an affect similar to a mirror.

Keep an eye out while rinsing off the glass and you'll see the difference. If I remember right it's something to do with how the lead or metal is floated on the glass to make it flat during production?

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Gasket
I'm not Eric, but...
Hydrophobic means repentant or hating of water so the water doesn't like to sit on the glass, it beads up and rolls away. Hydrophilic is where the glass loves and doesn't repel water as much so it'll not bead and tends to sheet down the glass giving an affect similar to a mirror.

Keep an eye out while rinsing off the glass and you'll see the difference. If I remember right it's something to do with how the lead or metal is floated on the glass to make it flat during production?

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Thanks for the reply....I have noticed these on my rounds , but what I’m struggling with is an effective time efficient way to deal with them. As these seem to be the windows that cause me the most problems


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Eric Gilliand
4 hours ago, Gasket said:


Thanks for the reply....I have noticed these on my rounds , but what I’m struggling with is an effective time efficient way to deal with them. As these seem to be the windows that cause me the most problems


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Oh I fully understand the differences between the two types of glass and no matter how you rinse the bubbles of water will always build up after the rinse but as long as your rinse has been full and accurate and your system is running pure then the surface bubbles will dry spot free. So back to speed of rinse. With spray bar turn it on an angle up to 90° to increase the rinse depth (coverage). You’re now getting 200-300mm of rinse coverage depending on rinse bar length as opposed to about 50mm with the brush at horizontal. This is caused by rivulets and bubble build up stopping the water from sheeting. Still not as quick as hydrophilic but hey, it is what it is and all we can strive for is sensible speed gains and to be as efficient as the glass will allow.

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Mwwindowcleaning
On 27/06/2018 at 21:04, paul alan said:

Ive been using this on off for around 6 months, its a great bit of kit.

 

I dont use it all the time but it is well suited to some windows, definitely worth having as  part of your arsenal. I have a weekly with about 100+ panes that are roughly 10" by 14" and this rinse bar has cut the time it takes to do In half.

 

I have found that upon checking you can leave "bits" on the glass when rinse baring but that could be down to my technique?? I get the feeling that you need to be quick when rinsing on with the brush to get the brush out of the way of the rinse, if that makes any sense.

 

I have the worst of both worlds where I live as I live in the countryside on the sea front, if the windows are already quite clean it wouldn't be a problem but there's always a lot of spiders webs etc here so I do better with a good flow to push the **** off the glass. 

How durable is it as a whole and  the jet holes ? 

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paul alan
17 hours ago, Mwwindowcleaning said:

How durable is it as a whole and  the jet holes ? 

its had a good bashing about since I had it, its till intact apart from a small hole in the top which squirts water out when I trun it on under pressure, then it goes away when the pressure goes down a little.

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Den
On 29/06/2018 at 17:00, paul alan said:

its had a good bashing about since I had it, its till intact apart from a small hole in the top which squirts water out when I trun it on under pressure, then it goes away when the pressure goes down a little.

Are you still using the rinse bar Paul,  does the jets hit the wall above windows when using yours do you have yours hitting the tops of the bristles or flow above bristles? 

 

Noticed Alex as brought out a low pressure version and wondering whether to order one.

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spruce
On 27/06/2018 at 09:00, Eric Gilliand said:

Absolutely. Can’t impress upon users enough though that a top mounted rinsebar should always be combined with a pivot. On hydrophobic glass turn the brush almost 90° and use the rinse bar vertically. Superb rinse depth on all glass and especially useful on hydrophobic.

 

Hi Eric,

I have an overspray rinse bar which works satisfactorily (not brilliantly) on certain applications which I purchased for a specific job. Both yourself and @paul alan mention the little bits that are left behind on the glass which we also experience. We also have lots of fine grit that seems to stick to the glass even when given a 'blast' with pencil jets. Windows facing the north sea or close to it are the ones that are affected the most. Some glass also seems to magnetically attract this fine grit.😕

 

I have been contemplating a rinse bar with my next Gardiner order and to fit it to a dedicated flocked brush with a swivel attached.  Not sure if the small hole sizes in the rinse bar are going to be problematic due to fine dirt particles. I haven't used a flocked brush as an everyday brush for years now either.

 

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Den
17 minutes ago, spruce said:

 

Hi Eric,

I have an overspray rinse bar which works satisfactorily (not brilliantly) on certain applications which I purchased for a specific job. Both yourself and @paul alan mention the little bits that are left behind on the glass which we also experience. We also have lots of fine grit that seems to stick to the glass even when given a 'blast' with pencil jets. Windows facing the north sea or close to it are the ones that are affected the most. Some glass also seems to magnetically attract this fine grit.😕

 

I have been contemplating a rinse bar with my next Gardiner order and to fit it to a dedicated flocked brush with a swivel attached.  Not sure if the small hole sizes in the rinse bar are going to be problematic due to fine dirt particles. I haven't used a flocked brush as an everyday brush for years now either.

 

Spruce if you don’t use a swivel now I highly recommend one, stick with it will reduce cleaning time and fatigue because you don’t need to make so many body shapes movements to get the awkward window especially the first floor windows from cleaning sideways can get right in the corners easy.

 

Im not trying to reach a old dog new tricks pardon the expression lol as you are a great asset and experience cleaner and I have personally learned tonnes from you but the things I have noticed the most and would never go backwards anymore is the following below not necessary in that order as all are equally as each other.

 

lightest pole / brush

univalve 

swivel

electric reel 

going tubless

 

 

Im now flying thru my work much quicker and SO much less fatigue getting home earlier and feeling better is a massive plus the quality of life is better and too me that is a massive plus. 

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spruce
31 minutes ago, Den said:

Spruce if you don’t use a swivel now I highly recommend one, stick with it will reduce cleaning time and fatigue because you don’t need to make so many body shapes movements to get the awkward window especially the first floor windows from cleaning sideways can get right in the corners easy.

 

Im not trying to reach a old dog new tricks pardon the expression lol as you are a great asset and experience cleaner and I have personally learned tonnes from you but the things I have noticed the most and would never go backwards anymore is the following below not necessary in that order as all are equally as each other.

 

lightest pole / brush

univalve 

swivel

electric reel 

going tubless

 

 

Im now flying thru my work much quicker and SO much less fatigue getting home earlier and feeling better is a massive plus the quality of life is better and too me that is a massive plus. 

 

I honestly appreciate the advice. Thank you. None of us are too old to learn, no matter how much experience we have.

 

I have a couple of swivels in the accessories box. I honestly don't like using a swivel in certain applications but it also does help in others. It just something I didn't consider using it in conjunction with the spray bar, even although Perry Tait had a video using the Constructor brush this way.

 

I'm also considering an electric reel and going tubeless. But in my case, all these things need to be considered in conjuction with what time I have left of my working life. I was hoping to keep working until 70 which is only 3 years away. Everyday gets harder and harder and each house I clean takes longer and longer.

 

Oh to be young again with lots of energy. 😄

 

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Minty
7 minutes ago, spruce said:

 

I honestly appreciate the advice. Thank you. None of us are too old to learn, no matter how much experience we have.

 

I have a couple of swivels in the accessories box. I honestly don't like using a swivel in certain applications but it also does help in others. It just something I didn't consider using it in conjunction with the spray bar, even although Perry Tait had a video using the Constructor brush this way.

 

I'm also considering an electric reel and going tubeless. But in my case, all these things need to be considered in conjuction with what time I have left of my working life. I was hoping to keep working until 70 which is only 3 years away. Everyday gets harder and harder and each house I clean takes longer and longer.

 

Oh to be young again with lots of energy. 😄

 

Hi Spuce, I have exactly Dens set up only I use 100 meters of exceeds pole hose as my main hose and it’s perfect IMO. You would really notice and appreciate the difference. That said I binned 3 swivels over time as I couldn’t get the knack, wouldn’t want to work without one now. 

Make your next 3 years the easiest you’ve worked 😁

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Den
15 minutes ago, spruce said:

 

I honestly appreciate the advice. Thank you. None of us are too old to learn, no matter how much experience we have.

 

I have a couple of swivels in the accessories box. I honestly don't like using a swivel in certain applications but it also does help in others. It just something I didn't consider using it in conjunction with the spray bar, even although Perry Tait had a video using the Constructor brush this way.

 

I'm also considering an electric reel and going tubeless. But in my case, all these things need to be considered in conjuction with what time I have left of my working life. I was hoping to keep working until 70 which is only 3 years away. Everyday gets harder and harder and each house I clean takes longer and longer.

 

Oh to be young again with lots of energy. 😄

 

Life could be worst you could be as old @Part Timer lol

3 years is a long time to wear yourself out and cause future wear and tear on your limbs please consider the above suggestions.

 

Researching the rinsebar for me is another possible time saver as I have a few working years left and want to try as much as possible to future proof myself. 

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Den

Have justed ordered the low pressure rinse bar it as 16 mircro jets instead of 32 micro jets on the normal version I will update when I get it and tried out. 

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paul alan

I have recently been sent the new half pressure version of the rinse bar and it is awesome.

 

There is a learning curve to these rinse bars and swivels, I have been swivelling for years now and can't use without.

 

The new rinse bar has tonnes of pressure and jets up above the brush, I personally still have to raise it up above the stock to get a clear unobstructed rinse which I have found is vital to a spot-free finish. I did trial the rinse bar with the jets hitting the back of the bristles, and while it was much easier to use like that, I was getting spotting in the middle of the glass. When I looked properly I could see that the water was hitting the back of the bristles and flowing down to the back of the stock, mostly missing the glass.

 

The clear problem for me is most brushes are not designed for rinse bars, the bristles are generally too long and obstruct the rinse with minimal pressure on the glass.

 

So, I bought a constructor brush.....

 

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Den
33 minutes ago, paul alan said:

I have recently been sent the new half pressure version of the rinse bar and it is awesome.

 

There is a learning curve to these rinse bars and swivels, I have been swivelling for years now and can't use without.

 

The new rinse bar has tonnes of pressure and jets up above the brush, I personally still have to raise it up above the stock to get a clear unobstructed rinse which I have found is vital to a spot-free finish. I did trial the rinse bar with the jets hitting the back of the bristles, and while it was much easier to use like that, I was getting spotting in the middle of the glass. When I looked properly I could see that the water was hitting the back of the bristles and flowing down to the back of the stock, mostly missing the glass.

 

The clear problem for me is most brushes are not designed for rinse bars, the bristles are generally too long and obstruct the rinse with minimal pressure on the glass.

 

So, I bought a constructor brush.....

 

Cheers Paul, I remember you trialing 5he rinsebar and sharinginfo with me which was well receivedthats why I resurrected this thread I’m planning to use this with my extreme brush so hopefully clear the bristles. 

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Den

Also have noticed that the Angle as been set slightly highlyon the low pressure version so hopefully clear the bristles a bit easier. 

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paul alan
10 hours ago, Den said:

Also have noticed that the Angle as been set slightly highlyon the low pressure version so hopefully clear the bristles a bit easier. 

Yes it does clear the bristles much better, the extreme has the lowest and straightest bristle profile of all the Gardiner brushes I have so is probably your best chance at getting a clear rinse. Alex did recommend the medium mixed ultimate as it doesn't collapse so easily, I have tried that brush and it does hold its integrity well.

 

I have been using the rinse bar on the tucker dual trim and that works very well with the rinse bar, even though I still have to raise it about 1/2" above the stock which doesn't look very aesthetic but works.

 

You have one of those situations where you have to really slow down your technique when rinse bar'ing, but... you're going to be going home earlier still!

 

I am a fussy window cleaner and can't stand to leave a spot anywhere, the rinse bar has been able to knock an hour of a 7 hour day for me whilst using less water. It is a bit weird that you are rinsing and scrubbing in one and I have had to get my head around it (still am). I do check my results though wherever possible and find that it leaves a fantastic finish when done right.

 

It will get frustrating, after a week or two you should start getting used to it. I think in a month or two you'll be an expert at it. You'll experience better results, faster, whilst using much less effort. I would say practice on your own windows at home for an hour or two before taking it out in the field, try not to use under any pressure (like a big day where you have to get finished quick) and SLOW DOWN! You'll have to use your noggin for this one!

10 hours ago, Den said:

Cheers Paul, I remember you trialing 5he rinsebar and sharinginfo with me which was well receivedthats why I resurrected this thread I’m planning to use this with my extreme brush so hopefully clear the bristles. 

If I can find the time, I will do you a video of what I have learned so far mate.

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