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Univalve help

Gasket

Active member
Messages
192
Location
West Midlands
Got a split in pole hose today , when changing I had to pull quite hard and twist to get off the univalve. After reattaching the univalve won’t turn off,

nothing appears to be broken inside and the valve is operating and feeling as normal. There doesn’t seem to be much that can actually go wrong with them,

Any ideas ??

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Got a split in pole hose today , when changing I had to pull quite hard and twist to get off the univalve. After reattaching the univalve won’t turn off,

nothing appears to be broken inside and the valve is operating and feeling as normal. There doesn’t seem to be much that can actually go wrong with them,

Any ideas ??

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I'm guessing you've put it back on the right way round with the fixed side of the Univalve pointing at the brush head.

If that's the right way, have you not pushed the pole hose on to the barb too far. If you have this will stop the valve from completely returning to its closed position.

The only other thing I can think of is the tiny o ring at the very end of the 'plunger' inside has come off. That happened to me and the O ring was still in the outlet barb. Quite why that should happen when changing the pole hose doesn't add up.

When taking the pole hose off the easiest way is to carefully cut a slit in the hose over the barb section with a sharp blade without cutting into the plastic barb itself. The hose will then peel off.

 
Cheers guys , it’s in the right way but I will check your other suggestions. To be fair I had to really tug and yank at it to get the pole hose off, however can’t see any damage or bends to it.


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Take care when removing the univalve from the hose !!..........I managed to snap the stem on mine last time I attempted removing it. Expensive Mistake $$$$


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IF using the pu hose I dont bother using tags or fittings to fix it to the univalve as using the metal orings makes it hard to get them off when rusty and older.  The hose seems to stick or cling to the plastic univalve okay without any fittings. I do have an oring fitting at the top of the brush to stop it pulling out of the brush fitting if that makes sense.

 
Guys thanks for your help , I removed the new o ring and lowered the inlet hose by a couple of mm and it works. Strange Cos it felt like it was operating perfectly fine , thats why I thought it was something internally. Shame I brought the replacement so soon lol. Thanks again everyone


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It happened to me also. A guy on the forum mentioned he doesn't use o rings to secure the hose. All he does is use the orange hose and once its on you cant get it off again. I tried it and it works great, no need to fit an o ring to a univalve again. :1f609:

 
Guys thanks for your help , I removed the new o ring and lowered the inlet hose by a couple of mm and it works. Strange Cos it felt like it was operating perfectly fine , thats why I thought it was something internally. Shame I brought the replacement so soon lol. Thanks again everyone


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Yeah, if that hose is pushed on too far it prevents the whole moving centre section from fully closing. If you take one apart you’ll see why that stops it shutting off the flow.

 
Uni valves are fantastic but once installed are often difficult to remove. I have a straight push fit connector either side of the uni valve. So if the uni valve breaks or the hose splits any parts can be removed easily and quickly, so you can get on with the days work. 

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To Cottonlung

Not sure if this reply is going directly to you (just joined the forum, still getting used to it).

Been using these push fit connectors a couple of years now saves so much time. Uni valves rarely go wrong, your more likely to get a split hose, but you can repair or replace in seconds rather than working with water running down your arm all day. 

 
To Cottonlung

Not sure if this reply is going directly to you (just joined the forum, still getting used to it).

Been using these push fit connectors a couple of years now saves so much time. Uni valves rarely go wrong, your more likely to get a split hose, but you can repair or replace in seconds rather than working with water running down your arm all day. 
I wasn't sure if those connectors could withstand the constant tugging day in day.. May have to have a go at this. Just turned my pole tubeless so this may be another great pole modification ?

 
These connections are as tough as old boots, just make sure hose is pushed right in.

Just gone tubeless my self, best thing I've done. How did you do yours ?

 
These connections are as tough as old boots, just make sure hose is pushed right in.

Just gone tubeless my self, best thing I've done. How did you do yours ?
Certainly saves a little time and less tangles on the van.. I left about 6 inches of hose at the bottom of the pole and use a rectus 21 tail.. seems to work just fine. I've seen the kits available but pricey when you can do it this way

 
I run tubeless as well and did have the same setup with a JG each side of the Univalve. But being in a constantly damp pole interior seemed to rot them from the outside and I've had a couple of JG connectors literally come apart at the ends as a result.  I decided to leave them out and just make up a spare Univalve and hose set for the top of the pole so I can just swap them out if theres a problem. Hasn't happened yet though. Now I only use one at the base of the pole and the 'T' piece at the top

 
Sorry this may seem a really dumb question , but I’m new at wfp so be kind ...what is the benefit of tube less ??


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