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cloudnine

Too much soap on moerman fliq?

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cloudnine

Been experiment using a 10" Fliq and moerman soft rubber,  and applying soap (aldi premium stuff) directly..

but getting a mixed bag of results....

 

Sometimes it squeegees off perfectly.. sometimes get the odd line where ive pulled down.

Yesterday seemed to get a few smeary windows and the soap was doing a weird emulsifying thing on the glass as soon as i applied it.

 

How often are you guys re-soaping the applicator on the fliq ?

 

 

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Bart90
4 hours ago, cloudnine said:

Been experiment using a 10" Fliq and moerman soft rubber,  and applying soap (aldi premium stuff) directly..

but getting a mixed bag of results....

 

Sometimes it squeegees off perfectly.. sometimes get the odd line where ive pulled down.

Yesterday seemed to get a few smeary windows and the soap was doing a weird emulsifying thing on the glass as soon as i applied it.

 

How often are you guys re-soaping the applicator on the fliq ?

 

 

Try working the soap in when you've just applied it otherwise it will tend to smudge and smear.  The liquidator is a tool that just takes a lot of trial and error,  when it clicks it's great.  Personally, I don't rate moerman rubber, over priced and under performs in my opinion.  At the moment I'm using ettore soft. I do find the moerman rubber useful for a quick changeover  midway through the day though.

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rugbywolf

The best way I find with liquidators (which is what the fliq is), is to use Razr red rubbers and as little soap as is possible to minimise the suds (or better still to use Squeegee off). Too much suds interferes with the principle it is based on.  

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mike007

I wet the pad then light bead of Fairy or whatever and add more water from my bottle as and when required...oh and I use razr red.

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Daniel Perkins

Moerman rubber is pretty bad & I think Bart is correct, work in into the pad first. Unfortunately like most things in our game, it is trial and error.

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Nudel

I just dip the fliq in my bucket, works fine. It does need more soap in the water than usual to get sufficient  glide and work properly.

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cloudnine

Thanks for the suggestions..  Strangely its only the fliq that i seem to have had problems with.. (have a variety of sized liquidators with moerman soft in them.)

Maybe it was just that job in particular.. it was just really strange how when i soaped up the window on the insides, the soap would literally emulsify like there was oil in the water or on the surface of the glass.  The result was a few smeary panes on the inside of the conny.  It seemed no matter how many times i re-cleaned a particular pane, the glass wouldnt clean.  It was very warm in the conny and the sun was shining right behind the panes making it look even worse. 

I

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rugbywolf
8 hours ago, cloudnine said:

Thanks for the suggestions..  Strangely its only the fliq that i seem to have had problems with.. (have a variety of sized liquidators with moerman soft in them.)

Maybe it was just that job in particular.. it was just really strange how when i soaped up the window on the insides, the soap would literally emulsify like there was oil in the water or on the surface of the glass.  The result was a few smeary panes on the inside of the conny.  It seemed no matter how many times i re-cleaned a particular pane, the glass wouldnt clean.  It was very warm in the conny and the sun was shining right behind the panes making it look even worse. 

I

Do the occupiers smoke or fry stuff? About the moerman rubbers, you would definitely be better off with Razr red, Moerman rubbers work quite well in an ordinary brass-type squeegee.

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scottish cleaning service

I've tried most rubbers and the best Two I came across was Moreman and Unger both soft types. I think its just a time thing like when one buys a new trowel. It takes time to bed in, that's what I have found out. If you expect a rubber to work right away then forget it!

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