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Diamond geezer

Flat tank blues

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Diamond geezer
Posted (edited)

I have a ecosteam flat 400 in my transporter.I can sleep on it if I want to  that's great,but I might have to out it,because iam thinking, an immersion heater would be nice addition+ an easy fill for my trolly,and thease are more suited to an upright.Some one posted that an upright, though caged and bolted down was strapped down also(belt n brace,s). Theres less need for that on a flat ,with its lower centre of gravity.Perhaps two immersion elements,and a pump for my trolly.I think Spruce knows about Immersions,did I read u fitted a more powerfull one to your tank?Lastly will I get a comparable fiow from a pump compaired to a gravity fill from an upright,or is this the end of my afternoon snoozes?

Just thought, is there such a thing as a great big emmersion element? If your running a trolly like me transferring hot rather than cold totrolly,got to be better Yea!

Edited by Diamond geezer
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Nudel

Get a regular immersion heater and run a pump at night, circulating the water from the coldest part back into where the heater is situated?

 

A sumberged pump hooked up to the same 240v supply for the heater would be pretty easy to install?

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Davy G

Be aware! If you're not intending to upgrade your electric mains supply, you'll need to get a 2kw immersion heater or you'll overload your plug and wiring. I use a 2kw on a Wyedale 650ltr flat tank with great success. 

Good luck 

🙂

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Diamond geezer

There we go,  I wouldn't have thought of pump cycling water thanks And yes ok with 2k heater,again thanks.Could some one advise me on running cost, is a 2k 2kilo watt hr and if so how long does it take yo heat a tank.Again thanks

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spruce
2 hours ago, Diamond geezer said:

I have a ecosteam flat 400 in my transporter.I can sleep on it if I want to  that's great,but I might have to out it,because iam thinking, an immersion heater would be nice addition+ an easy fill for my trolly,and thease are more suited to an upright.Some one posted that an upright, though caged and bolted down was strapped down also(belt n brace,s). Theres less need for that on a flat ,with its lower centre of gravity.Perhaps two immersion elements,and a pump for my trolly.I think Spruce knows about Immersions,did I read u fitted a more powerfull one to your tank?Lastly will I get a comparable fiow from a pump compaired to a gravity fill from an upright,or is this the end of my afternoon snoozes?

Just thought, is there such a thing as a great big emmersion element? If your running a trolly like me transferring hot rather than cold totrolly,got to be better Yea!

Not me.

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Davy G

Yep, 2 kilowatt per hour, with a thermostat. It's on from about 5pm till 9 am. A long time, I know. I haven't worked out the running cost but I estimate about 5 - 6 pounds per night, max. Heats to about 60c and loses no more than about 5-6 degrees in the working day as the tank has 4 layers of foil backed bubble insulation and an 18mm rubber mat on top. The water temperature at the brush stays warm the whole day, as the warmth rises in the tank, so being that the tank outlet is at the bottom opposite corner to the heating element. I'm using the least heated water first, with the rest (warmer) dropping lower in the tank as the day goes on. I don't recirculate, the tank acts as a storage heater. I'm delighted with my setup. 🙂

 

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Diamond geezer
2 hours ago, spruce said:

Not me.

Apologies

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RWCleaning

I’m thinking about doing this as well. I have a 500l upright tank.

Do you wrap anything around the actual immersion heater? I read somewhere on here that you need to otherwise it can melt the plastic? 

 

Also those who have insulted their van tanks, how do you gauge how full/empty the tank is in the work day?? Cause atm with the normal white plastic wydale tank it’s very easy to see through. And I find looking in through the lid very difficult to tell when you can’t see through. Could you get away with leaving half of one side uninsulated ?

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Scots lad

I leave a strip uncovered to see fill levels

All I put when installing immersion was a immersion washer and some boss white 

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RWCleaning

Boss white!? 

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spruce
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, RWCleaning said:

I’m thinking about doing this as well. I have a 500l upright tank.

Do you wrap anything around the actual immersion heater? I read somewhere on here that you need to otherwise it can melt the plastic? 

 

Also those who have insulted their van tanks, how do you gauge how full/empty the tank is in the work day?? Cause atm with the normal white plastic wydale tank it’s very easy to see through. And I find looking in through the lid very difficult to tell when you can’t see through. Could you get away with leaving half of one side uninsulated ?

 

Definitely not. You need to fit the element so its not near the sides, the bottom or a tank baffle. Obviously it needs to be low down as there need to be plenty of water above the element.

 

This windie fitted one in his tank but I would raise it slightly higher if I were doing it.

 

 

Mark Munro also fitted one to his tank.

 

 

Its harder to fit an element to an upright tank than it is a flat tank. Also consider you need to fit it where you can get access to fitting it through the tanks filler cap.

 

Edited by spruce

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RWCleaning
8 minutes ago, spruce said:

 

Definitely not. You need to fit the element so its not near the sides, the bottom or a tank baffle. Obviously it needs to be low down as there need to be plenty of water above the element.

 

This windie fitted one in his tank but I wouldn't raise it slightly higher if I were doing it.

 

 

Mark Munro also fitted one to his tank.

 

 

Its harder to fit an element to an upright tank than it is a flat tank. Also consider you need to fit it where you can get access to fitting it through the tanks filler cap.

 

Ok mate, thanks 

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RWCleaning

I presume I’ll have to get a hot water hose if I go ahead with the immersion heater? Is there anything else I’d need to change ?

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Scots lad

Boss white is jointing compound

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dazmond
14 hours ago, RWCleaning said:

I presume I’ll have to get a hot water hose if I go ahead with the immersion heater? Is there anything else I’d need to change ?

you ll need a new hose reel (if you ve got a cheap claber reel for example),new pole hose if your not already using PU hose and stiffer bristle brushes,also you ll probably need to re tighten and double clamp some connections..... if theres a weakness hot water will find it!

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RWCleaning
2 minutes ago, dazmond said:

you ll need a new hose reel (if you ve got a cheap claber reel for example),new pole hose if your not already using PU hose and stiffer bristle brushes,also you ll probably need to re tighten and double clamp some connections..... if theres a weakness hot water will find it!

Ok thanks. I see the pu hose on the Gardiner website says ‘not suitable for cold water’ is that really the case? Because I won’t be using hot every single day...

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Part Timer
Just now, RWCleaning said:

Ok thanks. I see the pu hose on the Gardiner website says ‘not suitable for cold water’ is that really the case? Because I won’t be using hot every single day...

Well I use it the majority of time with cold water. PITA for twisting at times but going tubeless should counter that problem. 

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dazmond
10 hours ago, RWCleaning said:

Ok thanks. I see the pu hose on the Gardiner website says ‘not suitable for cold water’ is that really the case? Because I won’t be using hot every single day...

itll be fine for the cold water days pal.although once you get used to hot water you ll want to use it every day....

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RWCleaning
1 hour ago, dazmond said:

itll be fine for the cold water days pal.although once you get used to hot water you ll want to use it every day....

I already have the orange P.U hose, at the top part of my pole hose, the bit that goes into the T-piece.

So are you suggesting that the WHOLE pole hose needs to be the orange pu ??

Is it even flexible enough ? It seemed quite stiff when I played with it earlier (no rude jokes) 

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