Cfb plus 10 prefilter

My resin is still  being decimated even though I've change the riser and the head, and use Cfb  plus 10 pre filter! was wondering if

the chlorine was killing my resin, is it worth adding another cfb plus 10 pre filter? ( spruce )

Dragbag said:

My resin is still  being decimated even though I've change the riser and the head, and use Cfb  plus 10 pre filter! was wondering if

the chlorine was killing my resin, is it worth adding another cfb plus 10 pre filter? ( spruce )

Click to expand...

Chlorine will destroy r/o membranes making them less efficient.

To find out why you are using too much resin You need to calculate how efficient your r/o is performing.

If your tap water tds is 300 and your r/o is performing at its best, your pure water before di should be 6ppm (98%).

If your output tds is say 20ppm then you are going to use a lot more resin to 'polish' that water off to pure. (300 - 20 = 280 ÷ 300 = 0.933. So your membrane is only working at 93% efficiency. Its generally considered that 94% is replacement membrane time.

A CFB 10 filter is good for removing chlorine from about 37,000 liters of tap water (waste + pure) so they last a while. Adding a second will mean that both will be good for double that amount of water but I doubt it will answer your problem.

My tap tds is 400 comes out the ro and into the Di at 10ppm

thats why I just don't get it. Change the resin  at Christmas and have gotten a little over 2000 L before the TDs is at 1ppm

thats with a new head and riser, from Doug 

Dragbag said:

My tap tds is 400 comes out the ro and into the Di at 10ppm

thats why I just don't get it. Change the resin  at Christmas and have gotten a little over 2000 L before the TDs is at 1ppm

thats with a new head and riser, from Doug 

Click to expand...

Maybe tag @doug atkinson so he sees the post and he may have a suggestion.

Dragbag said:

My tap tds is 400 comes out the ro and into the Di at 10ppm

thats why I just don't get it. Change the resin  at Christmas and have gotten a little over 2000 L before the TDs is at 1ppm

thats with a new head and riser, from Doug 

Click to expand...

10ppm is 97.5% so the r/o is fine.

If memory serves me @doug atkinson once suggested opening the di vessel and retrieving some of the resin in a container. Then put some of your tap water into it, swill it around and then test your water. What you are trying to do is see if the resin in your di vessel is spent or not.

Then you need to decide if your water is actually at 1ppm after 2000 liters or is the tds meter giving you a false reading.

Third option is the resin.

Dragbag said:

My tap tds is 400 comes out the ro and into the Di at 10ppm

thats why I just don't get it. Change the resin  at Christmas and have gotten a little over 2000 L before the TDs is at 1ppm

thats with a new head and riser, from Doug 

Click to expand...

If its only at 1 ppm then keep going. It might stay at that for months and months. You have got it going into the di vessel the right way? it would make a difference and chew it up quicker if you had it going in and out wrong way round.

ks789 said:

If its only at 1 ppm then keep going. It might stay at that for months and months. You have got it going into the di vessel the right way? it would make a difference and chew it up quicker if you had it going in and out wrong way round.

Click to expand...

Yes mate it's the right way, I did think it may have been the riser, but no?Spoken to Doug  a few times ( great customer service)