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IBC tank advice

Craigmac

Active member
Messages
172
Location
Swansea
Been offered a 1000 litre IBC tank that was used to store that vaping juice for £25.00  

tank is immaculate. Tank will be used as storage and not put into my van. 

question being how would i clean it out? 

would it just be the case of filling and flushing with water, or would i need an additive (possibly counter productive). 

 
I've not used it but I've seen a few people say to wash them out with a bit of hypo, could 3/4 fill the ibc add a small amount of hypo and swirl it, flush the tank then fill with pure and flush, that should be grand to use after that, just about to get an ibc myself so will be doing the same 

 
Been offered a 1000 litre IBC tank that was used to store that vaping juice for £25.00  

tank is immaculate. Tank will be used as storage and not put into my van. 

question being how would i clean it out? 

would it just be the case of filling and flushing with water, or would i need an additive (possibly counter productive). 


I've done a bit of digging and its appears that one of the ingredients of vape juice is propylene glycol. This is apparently water soluable.

The other option they use is vegetable glycerin which is an oil made from soybean, coconut or palm oils.

I don't know how effective jet washing with chemicals would remove these oils which may be an issue with 'contaminating' pure water. I honestly don't know.

When I'm not 100% sure about something I'm inclined to not do it. That's the negative in me. I would buy one that has been professionally cleaned out or that has been used for water, orange juice etc before. It will be a bit more expensive but it may save you in the long run.

 
the depreciation on these are nuts. 

£329.40 new

£25 used (like new)
This is because there are so many of them about. They are used on farms in massive bulk, basically scrap once they're used. The benefit with a new one is you know nothing has previously been stored in it and is safe for whatever your plan is. Normally when someone wants to store 1000L of any liquid it is important to them it doesn't become contaminated.

I have an idea for you with regards to cleaning it out. It is common for people to suggest cutting in a cross shape to fit a flood pump but you could just cut a square out. Cut it where the lid is. This should give you the room to access the inside and fully clean it with a PW. Once its all clean you can purchase a sheet of the same material really cheaply, stick a hinge on it to work as a door, jobs a good un...

I'm gonna give this a go with mine next week so if anyone is thinking its a bit far fetched I will post an update somewhere.

 
picked up the tank, it is mint.

It is the same tank in this link (1000 litre)

https://www.windowcleaningwarehouse.co.uk/ibc-storage-tanks.html

the depreciation on these are nuts. 

£329.40 new

£25 used (like new)


The price of the IBC tank is included with the contents. The selling price of the IBC tank to the content manufacturer will be much less than the selling price of this seller.  I wouldn't be surprised if it was close to the £60 price tag they ask for them as used.

 
I speak for buying new/clean. Used several days trying to clean out an oily IBC, and it was just not worth my time. If I had cleaned windows instead I could have bought several for the amount of time and grief I spent to save a little.

But if you have access to a power washer and hot water it might be feasible.

 
This is because there are so many of them about. They are used on farms in massive bulk, basically scrap once they're used. The benefit with a new one is you know nothing has previously been stored in it and is safe for whatever your plan is. Normally when someone wants to store 1000L of any liquid it is important to them it doesn't become contaminated.

I have an idea for you with regards to cleaning it out. It is common for people to suggest cutting in a cross shape to fit a flood pump but you could just cut a square out. Cut it where the lid is. This should give you the room to access the inside and fully clean it with a PW. Once its all clean you can purchase a sheet of the same material really cheaply, stick a hinge on it to work as a door, jobs a good un...

I'm gonna give this a go with mine next week so if anyone is thinking its a bit far fetched I will post an update somewhere.


Usually many w/cers have cut a flap in it from the threaded cap outwards - like a slice of pineapple from a tin. The cut needs to be big enough to slide the sub pump through.This will be 2 cuts as the back length won't be cut. The screw cap then holds the flap back in place. Drill a small hole next to this for the cable and feed it through. You could also just knick a piece out of the side of the flap the size of the cable to the sub pump. Some have 'sealed' the cuts up with silicone or duck tap. I would just cover it with an old towel to stop any dirt getting inside the tank.

 
Usually many w/cers have cut a flap in it from the threaded cap outwards - like a slice of pineapple from a tin. The cut needs to be big enough to slide the sub pump through.This will be 2 cuts as the back length won't be cut. The screw cap then holds the flap back in place. Drill a small hole next to this for the cable and feed it through. You could also just knick a piece out of the side of the flap the size of the cable to the sub pump. Some have 'sealed' the cuts up with silicone or duck tap. I would just cover it with an old towel to stop any dirt getting inside the tank.
I’ve currently got a a cross shap cut out. It was recommended i should seal it with putty and duck tape... this didn’t work but as you suggest the screw lid holds it all together anyway.

My plan is to remove the screw top lid section completely. A piece of HDPE plastic is going to be fitted as a hinge on the top to provide access to the tank to easily service the pump etc.

The only thing I plan to come out of that hatch is the plug for the pump. I’m going to drill holes towards the edge for the JG tube to go in and the sump hose to come out. Might also fit grommets so the hoses are snug.

 
just measured the inlet hole on the the top. came to 6 inches.

there must be pumps that are 6 inches or smaller that would fit. 

also with that opening I can for the pressure washer nossle in. will not have the angle to clean the top of the tank though. 

 
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I brought a second hand ibc that had vegetable oil stored in it. To clean it I removed the tank from the cage, put about 25l of hot water in it with some washing up liquid. Then just rolled it carefully over and over in my garden obviously with the lid back on. Then just drained it and sprayed the inside by reaching in through the top with my finger over the end of the hose pipe. Drained it again and it came up a treat and put it back in the cage, filled with pure and never had any issues. 

To fit a sub pump I just cut an X where the lid is and pushed the pump through. Mines in the garage so never bothered to repair the cut but you could use tape or glue.if you’d do cut it in any way just make sure you wash it out afterwards or plastic shavings might end up in your sub or van pump

 
I’ve currently got a a cross shap cut out. It was recommended i should seal it with putty and duck tape... this didn’t work but as you suggest the screw lid holds it all together anyway.

My plan is to remove the screw top lid section completely. A piece of HDPE plastic is going to be fitted as a hinge on the top to provide access to the tank to easily service the pump etc.

The only thing I plan to come out of that hatch is the plug for the pump. I’m going to drill holes towards the edge for the JG tube to go in and the sump hose to come out. Might also fit grommets so the hoses are snug.
I run my transfer hose out through the cap. I removed the vent and used the hole. It has a piece of cloth over it to stop any dirt getting in and the tank can still breathe.

 
To fit a sub pump I just cut an X where the lid is and pushed the pump through. Mines in the garage so never bothered to repair the cut but you could use tape or glue.if you’d do cut it in any way just make sure you wash it out afterwards or plastic shavings might end up in your sub or van pump
That's what i've done at the moment, i'm just wanting to try something different and see if it works TBH. Mine is also in the garage so i've been in no rush to sort it.

With regards to the plastic shavings another problem is they can sit on top of your solenoid float and stop it from closing. This is a problem @Tuffers had when he first got his tank.

I run my transfer hose out through the cap. I removed the vent and used the hole. It has a piece of cloth over it to stop any dirt getting in and the tank can still breathe.
Thats what I do currently (Without the cloth) I could just be creating work for myself with no actual benefit but I reckon its worth a shot.

I have just stumbled upon a massive flaw in my plan though. The top of the IBC is not flat enough for a section of plastic to form a seal, it would sit like a seesaw. I'm going to go with some clear plastic material taped down to the tank, very thin see through stuff. If i've got holes elsewhere for hoses the tank will breath enough anyway.

 
It over filled one night last week too @P4dstar, luckily I'd gone in the garage as it was just starting to overflow ?
Ball ache mate. When I cut that cross into mine I swilled it out for ages but still managed to find some little shards in the in line strainer a few weeks later. That's the worst part of making any changes. I did like how they fitted your hose to the side and then patched over it, it can look as fancy as it likes though if it floods it's pointless.

 
Years ago I started off with a pond pump from B&Q which had an inlet with tapered fitting and an outlet with a tapered fitting like a sub pump so dropped one piece of hose in the tank and ran the other to containers or van tank, not sure if this is what @spruce means they are a bit noisier than a sub pump hence I got rid of mine as I usually fill my tank around 7am each day. 

 
I've added an overflow pipe to the top of the tank with a separate hose to an outside drain. It saved the day once in 12 years.

 
I didn't go down the route of a submersible pump. I used a transfer pump from Machine Mart which is located in a cupboard above the IBC tank. I have a foot valve in the transfer pipe which sits in the bottom of the tank and the transfer hose exits through the vent hole in the cap. In the early days I just couldn't see myself cutting up a nice IBC tank to drop a sub pump in.

In the future when that tranfer pump needs replacing I will replace it with a sub pump. Being in the water I wouldn't have to worry about freezing temperatures. ATM I have a small electric light bulb in the cupboard that can be switched on to provide enough heat to keep the pump warm.

When we had that bad 6 week cold spell back in 2011/2, I drained the pump down, but it had to be primed before it could be used again.

 
When we had that bad 6 week cold spell back in 2011/2, I drained the pump down, but it had to be primed before it could be used again
I've ordered all the stuff to make the changes I want to my RO and tank. This got me thinking about cold snaps and the damage it could do to my RO. Might fit a heater in the garage. I was looking at one of these...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NETTA-Electric-Glass-Free-Standing-Wall-Mounted-Heating-Panel-Heater-Radiator-/292484360990

Then the wife rolled her eyes and put ''wives with knives'' on the TV... Think I better wait to get a heater ???

 
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