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Trolley build help please

WCF

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Gloucestershire
I'm just about to order the parts to make a trolley. I have decided not to waste time with a remote control, not sure it's worth adding a digital reading for the voltage to be 100% honest so it is probably going to be battery, pump, flow control and on off switch.

Questions I have...

1. With regards to charging a small battery can I install a charger port the same as on my gardiner back pack and just charge it with the same charger?

https://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/portable-systems/backpack-spares-v3/backpack-socket-v3.html

2. Does anyone have a diagram of how to wire everything up. Literally a novice at this so any advice in this area would be really really appreciated. I found a video on wiring an on off switch where the guy connected the neutral to the battery, the neutral of the pump to the battery and then had the live feeding through the switch and then on to the pump... Can't understand how you would add a flow control into the mix... Like I say, complete novice.

3. With regards to sucking the water from barrels does anyone have a link to those mesh things you see in some of the videos and will the small pumps used in trolleys and backpacks be able to run using these comfortably or do you need to do anything special to purge the pump?

 
To answer your points:

1. Yes, just the same aH battery

2. I can sketch something for you no problem. If you do a search I’m sure you’ll fond a drawing on here. 

3. No real need for an in-line strainer - if that’s what you mean about the mesh thing- if you are transferring water that’s pure. Gardiner sell the in-line ones anyway.

Don’t  forget your fuses!!!! 

What parts are you using? Are you just ordering the backpack ‘spares’ or are you going for a shurflo pump, branded battery, Chinese PWM?

 
What’s making you go down the DIY route anyway. I’ve made numerous pump boxes, trolleys, backpacks in an actual backpack and the easiest, most convenient hassle free solution is the actual Gardiner backpack on a decent trolley. 

 
2. I can sketch something for you no problem. If you do a search I’m sure you’ll fond a drawing on here. 
I saw one yesterday I think, can't find it for the life of me

3. No real need for an in-line strainer - if that’s what you mean about the mesh thing- if you are transferring water that’s pure. Gardiner sell the in-line ones anyway.
Not the in line strainer. On the end of the hose that goes in the barrel i've seen some mesh connections. They seem to be the same material that the basket on top of the Gardiner back pack has.

Don’t  forget your fuses!!!! 
Fuses were gonna be my next question.

In all honesty I aint done any work with circuits since school, i'm sure i'll get there haha.

 
What’s making you go down the DIY route anyway. I’ve made numerous pump boxes, trolleys, backpacks in an actual backpack and the easiest, most convenient hassle free solution is the actual Gardiner backpack on a decent trolley. 
I've got my back pack, can't fault it now its back up and running. I want the trolley for some of the little cottages I clean. There's so many villages round here where you can't get a van to the houses. Basically I can stack 2 containers safely on a trolley where a container and a backpack don't work as well.

 
I use this strainer from Pure freedom.

https://purefreedom.co.uk/product/new-trolley-strainer-from-nov-2015/

I found inline strainers to be problematic when clearing airlocks on my trolley.


The older strainer with the non-return valve built in were a PITA.

I’ve always chucked them in the end as without it you don’t seem to get as many air-locks and the hose reaches further down into the water container - so less waste.

I’ve just found a screenshot I took of the wiring diagram so will put it up in a min

Perfect diagram - you don’t necessarily need the relay but it ‘should’ help preserve the pressure switch on the pump. Some PWM controllers have a fuse built in - if the one you’ve got doesn’t I’d recommend a fuse on the output to the pump. I’d also have one protecting your side of the charging circuit. Belt and braces.

AE44794A-C028-4DBF-A9FB-42A91685F39A.png

 
Last edited by a moderator:
You want to keep the internal volume of the pickup hose as small as possible without slowing the flow you want. On my trolley I've found minibore 8mm internal diameter hose works very well. Anything bigger may well give you problems when clearing airlocks which you will get everytime you empty a barrel. I use a 5lpm backpack style pump on mine and it primes in about 2-3secs.

 
You want to keep the internal volume of the pickup hose as small as possible without slowing the flow you want. On my trolley I've found minibore 8mm internal diameter hose works very well. Anything bigger may well give you problems when clearing airlocks which you will get everytime you empty a barrel. I use a 5lpm backpack style pump on mine and it primes in about 2-3secs.
Just come across this which you posted a while back too!

Screenshot 2019-02-22 22.17.44.png

 
The older strainer with the non-return valve built in were a PITA.

I’ve always chucked them in the end as without it you don’t seem to get as many air-locks and the hose reaches further down into the water container - so less waste.

I’ve just found a screenshot I took of the wiring diagram so will put it up in a min

Perfect diagram - you don’t necessarily need the relay but it ‘should’ help preserve the pressure switch on the pump. Some PWM controllers have a fuse built in - if the one you’ve got doesn’t I’d recommend a fuse on the output to the pump. I’d also have one protecting your side of the charging circuit. Belt and braces.

View attachment 15795
Didn't spot that before I posted it haha ?

Can I just put this in stupid speak to see if how i'm reading that diagram is correct....

All negatives join up and go back to the negative on the battery.

Positive leaves the battery to a fuse, splits off to the charging port and then an on off switch. After the on off switch it splits off again and connects to the pressure switch and separately to the flow controller. After the flow controller it connects to the pump (Would be worth adding a fuse in here)

Does that sound right?

 
That's the way I've wired mine up following suggestions found on here and the other forum re using the automotive relay and it works well. If you don't want to use a controller just remove it from the drawing and connect the two '+' together and the two '-' together.

 
Sorry I was typing while you posted.

Don't forget the Automotive 40amp relay in the drawing. It will work without it and the wiring would be different and simpler. However, these little pumps have a reputation for not lasting very long without it as the microswitches in the built in pressure switch burns out under the load we put on them. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sorry I was typing while you posted.

Don't forget the Automotive 40amp relay in the drawing. It will work without it and the wiring would be simpler. However, these little pumps have a reputation for not lasting very long without it as the microswitches in the built in pressure switch burns out under the load we put on them. 
Is this what you mean?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Automotive-Changeover-Relay-40A-5-Pin-SPDT-Swithcing-Relays-for-Car-Bike-Van/253672488285?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D56003%26meid%3Dd6cff675b0b5467caace4f343dbbfb06%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D263557395247%26itm%3D253672488285&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Also if I use blade fuses what rating do I need? I know my pump and controller in the van have 7.5amp... How do they work it out though?

 
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I'm just about to order the parts to make a trolley. I have decided not to waste time with a remote control, not sure it's worth adding a digital reading for the voltage to be 100% honest so it is probably going to be battery, pump, flow control and on off switch.

Questions I have...

1. With regards to charging a small battery can I install a charger port the same as on my gardiner back pack and just charge it with the same charger?

https://gardinerpolesystems.co.uk/all-products/pure-water-systems/portable-systems/backpack-spares-v3/backpack-socket-v3.html

2. Does anyone have a diagram of how to wire everything up. Literally a novice at this so any advice in this area would be really really appreciated. I found a video on wiring an on off switch where the guy connected the neutral to the battery, the neutral of the pump to the battery and then had the live feeding through the switch and then on to the pump... Can't understand how you would add a flow control into the mix... Like I say, complete novice.

3. With regards to sucking the water from barrels does anyone have a link to those mesh things you see in some of the videos and will the small pumps used in trolleys and backpacks be able to run using these comfortably or do you need to do anything special to purge the pump?




With respect why not buy one ready built I doubt by the time you have bought all the bits , time spent building it, then fiddeling around  with possible issues , there won’t be much difference in  cost , and a pre built one will come with a guarantee, there are some good ones out there .

 


Yes that’s the one and the 7.5amp fuse should be fine too. I bench tested mine before I wired it up on the trolley.

 
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With respect why not buy one ready built I doubt by the time you have bought all the bits , time spent building it, then fiddeling around  with possible issues , there won’t be much difference in  cost , and a pre built one will come with a guarantee, there are some good ones out there .
I've had a good look around at them. £275 buys a DIY one from eBay, A pure freedom trolley is circa £550, one from WCW is £800ish.

To build one is around £130. It will take quite a lot of time but my boy will build it with me, good chance for a bit of father son bonding time.

 
I've had a good look around at them. £275 buys a DIY one from eBay, A pure freedom trolley is circa £550, one from WCW is £800ish.

To build one is around £130. It will take quite a lot of time but my boy will build it with me, good chance for a bit of father son bonding time.


The other bonus is you know your system, when things go wrong on the road you are able to identify and rectify problems on the go. That’s not saying you can’t with a purchased system but if you’ve made it with your own hands you should know it better. 

 
The other bonus is you know your system, when things go wrong on the road you are able to identify and rectify problems on the go. That’s not saying you can’t with a purchased system but if you’ve made it with your own hands you should know it better. 
That's why I went with DIY for the van mount. The more you know the more you can fix.

 
The other bonus is you know your system, when things go wrong on the road you are able to identify and rectify problems on the go. That’s not saying you can’t with a purchased system but if you’ve made it with your own hands you should know it better. 


This is partly why I stripped down my PF trolley and rebuilt it to my specs. 

It’s a pity really that they are as expensive as they are because they are hard to beat in terms of ease of use and maintenance.

 
I've got my back pack, can't fault it now its back up and running. I want the trolley for some of the little cottages I clean. There's so many villages round here where you can't get a van to the houses. Basically I can stack 2 containers safely on a trolley where a container and a backpack don't work as well.


Not sure why you think it isn’t a viable option.  I have a couple of jobs where I need an extra container with my Gardiner backpack. Solution. Put it on top. Get some carabiner with a stretch rope around and tie it to the handle. It won’t come off. Saves all this trouble and there about £2 / £3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amtech-S0617-Approved-Carabineer-36-Inch/dp/B0051MVUL0

if you want to build your own that’s great but if you are looking for a great solution that does the exact same job and is cheaper than this is your best bet

 
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