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harry123

Mr Harrison Jones

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harry123

Hi wonder if you could help, I’m new to the waterfed pole and can’t seem to get rid of dirt spots or run downs if that’s what they’re called, I have got my pure water down to zero and haven’t got the water coming out very fast out of the jets yet it’s still leaving spots. Help ? 

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Clisty1989

Turn the flow up, the reason your probably getting spotting is not enough water to rinse thoroughly so some of the dirt is staying on the glass.

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harry123

Mainly it’s on the top of the glass ? 

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Pjj

Without being rude if you are new to wfp ( water fed pole ) it’s probably to do with technique the top of the windows will be the dirtiest and will need more scrubbing especially on the first clean , vents can produce problems as dirt will run out of them down the glass ,so clean the frames first especially the tops rinse the frame , then do the glass again and this time only rinse the glass this should help solve the issues, as has already been mentioned use a de ent flow fir rinsing , it’s a very personal thing we all do the job slightly differently but try a bit more flow as well and see how you get on  

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harry123

Nice one, will definitely give this a try, will a rinse bar help get rid of spots or no ? 

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Pjj
29 minutes ago, harry123 said:

Nice one, will definitely give this a try, will a rinse bar help get rid of spots or no ? 

We personally don’t use rinse bars but we don’t get spots on the windows either 

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Maund

Watch how to videos on YouTube, then Practice on your own Windows.

 

Pencils, fans or rinse bars. All do the same job

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brianbadonde

What is your flow rate?

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Adman

If your pressure is too high, the jets can cause a spray when they hit the glass, which then collects above the area you're cleaning.  This can then drip down after you've finished.  Adjust your flow to avoid

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spruce
11 hours ago, harry123 said:

Nice one, will definitely give this a try, will a rinse bar help get rid of spots or no ? 

 

If you are learning to do the job then pencil jets are best imho. I would also stay away from fan jets, but I'm going to say that as I don't get on with fan jets.

 

A rinse bar isn't a good addition but as it sits on top of the brush it does restrict the clean you do on the upper frame unless you use in inconjunction with a swivel as well.

When doing a first clean we find that its best to give the window frame at the top a good scrub and rinse and then clean the rest of the window. We move onto the next window and do the same. We come back to the first window later when its stopped dripping and wash the glass below the frame and rinse well. Our rinsing technique was always to rinse with the brush off the glass as any dirt on the bristles won't effect the clean you have done.

 

We converted a trad round we bought to wfp. It was a compact round and we found it best to clean all the window like this and move onto the house next door and then the following house. We then came back to the first house and cleaned the glass. In 99% of the time the results were fine but there were the odd ones we had to clean the glass for a third time. I remember on one house I had to dry the top frame with a towel and then blade the window off with a squeegee. The next clean was fine with no issues which surprised me.

 

Some old UPVC window frames do suffer from oxidation despite what they say to the contrary. This oxidation is like a powder that is absorbed by the pure water droplets and then runs down the glass. The water dries but the white powder stays behind in the form of spots or streeks.

Our lounge and front bedroom window have this issue. It mainly effects windows frames that are south facing as they get the sun. The good news it that the problem is reduced with regular cleaning.

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chelmsclean

Same as spruce said really.

Have you got a picture of the marks?

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harry123
53 minutes ago, chelmsclean said:

Same as spruce said really.

Have you got a picture of the marks?

Hard to see in the photo but that’s the inside the marks are on the outside close to the rear wheel of the car.

A412CC46-0019-48EE-BD79-CED622B09C95.jpeg

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spruce
2 hours ago, harry123 said:

Hard to see in the photo but that’s the inside the marks are on the outside close to the rear wheel of the car.

A412CC46-0019-48EE-BD79-CED622B09C95.jpeg

 

Good call @chelmsclean.

 

If you go back and clean the glass only I'm sure it will be fine. The challenge you will also have is that the street houses are very close to the road and get lots of muck from the road traffic.

We usually find that spots from the top window frame run in a straight spotted line which those spots don't appear to be doing.

 

These windows appear to be sash windows which have their own challenges. Either the bottom or both windows are designed to open. The top window overlaps the bottom window a little. Dirt is inclined the get into this overlap gap. It will also get under the frame of the top window which will come down onto the glass below in the rinse water if its not cleaned.

You also dont want the work too hard at scrubbing as these windows are reknowned for leaking, especially older wooden framed windows.

 

We push a bit harder on the brush to splay the bristles up into the gap and careful turn the brush upside down to clean under the centre dividing frame without shooting water into the gap. Once you have done the clean you will find that you won't need to go into that much detail. We find that if we press the width of the brush up into the gap and clean that out first we can then rub the side of the bristles against the underneath of the frame and that's a good enough clean.

 

Old painted wooden sash windows can also be a problem because the old paint oxidises and can be difficult to get right. But when you do you're away. 

 

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J and S

Always do first cleans twice frames and glass then glass again.....when I converted my rounds I did 3 or 4 houses frames and glass then went back to the first one and did glass again with the controller on 70.

I now use a turbo brush on a separate pole to do frames and glass then normal brush with rinse bar to do glass again.

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harry123

Do you use chemicals on the glass or just pure water only and chemicals for the frames ?

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Pjj
18 minutes ago, harry123 said:

Do you use chemicals on the glass or just pure water only and chemicals for the frames ?

On a first clean you can use a chemical like Virosol dilutes 10-1  spray it on the whole window including frames , make sure you rinse well though as it can leave track lines , it will help remove all the dirt and grime that have built up . 

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Marko067
On 09/06/2019 at 20:35, harry123 said:

Hi wonder if you could help, I’m new to the waterfed pole and can’t seem to get rid of dirt spots or run downs if that’s what they’re called, I have got my pure water down to zero and haven’t got the water coming out very fast out of the jets yet it’s still leaving spots. Help ? 

 

Like others have said I’d say your main problem is that your flow rate is way too low. 

To get an idea of your flow rate at the brush, hold it over a bucket and see how much water you collect in one minute. This will give you your  actual flow rate in litres per minute (lpm). A flow rate above 2 lpm works well for me, though I prefer it to be nearer 2.5 lpm. Personally I love fan jets but like spruce has said I would highly recommend learning with pencils first and only try fans if you feel like you want to when you’ve established a good technique with pencils.

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harry123

I have already done that I’m getting about 2 litres a minute at the moment, just seem to be getting leaks from the black seal at the top of the window and dripping down, don’t really know how to prevent this, I leave them dry and go back to it but seem to be taking quite a while on a house and still ending up with the same result.

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